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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are these master cylinders and booster painted?or natural.And how do you bench bleed them?Thanks
 

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According to MCA 1971-1973 Mustang Concours Trailered/Driven judging rules--

Master Cylinder--Semi-Gloss black or cast iron finish

Cap--Semi-Gloss black or cadium finish--Cap must have correct logo "USE ONLY ESA-M6C25 BRAKE FLUID CAUTION" No DOT 3 marked caps

Power Brake booster--Semi-Gloss black finish

Rigid brake lines--Natural steel finish

HTH--don
 

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Bobby, if you don't already have one, you can get a bench bleeding kit at the parts store. It will be a couple of fittings that screw into the MC where the brake lines fit, and a couple of hoses that will attach to the fitting and loop back into the reservoir. Put the MC level in a vise, fill it up with brake fluid, and use a punch or a screwdriver to pump the MC where the brake pedal rod goes in. Do this until there is no more air coming out of the lines. Remove the bleeding fittings and put the plugs that came out of the holes when you took it out of the box back in. Top off the MC and put the cap on and secure it. Mount the MC, then remove the caps and connect your brake line fittings (one at a time). Put a bunch of rags underneath the MC while you're attaching the brake lines to keep the brake fluid from getting on your freshly painted fender apron.
 

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johnpro said:
You can also do it by installing the MC dry. Hook up the bleeder kit like bighorse said and gently pump the pedal.

I find this way slightly less messy.
But then it wouldn't be called bench bleeding! ;)
 

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bighorse said:
johnpro said:
You can also do it by installing the MC dry. Hook up the bleeder kit like bighorse said and gently pump the pedal.

I find this way slightly less messy.
But then it wouldn't be called bench bleeding! ;)
*LOL* Good point. :rofl:
 
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