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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 750dp holley on a 351c- 4v quench heads. Cam .554/.577 with 238/248 duration @ .050. The car is now happy with 72 primary with 5.5 power valve and 80 secondary.
The squirters are 28 front 37 rear. Should I change these? Also the pump cam is white/yellow should I change this? Maybe to pink?
 

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Your settings will depend on how you launch the car and what kind of traction you're getting...

Personally, I'd go to the Reo pump on the primary side with the pink cam.... go to a 31 squirter on the primary and keep the 37 on the secondary..
Have someone spot you at the starting line and check for a puff of black smoke....if visible, try backing off the secondary squirter to a 35....

Your jetting sounds fine for a corked up car...

If you can give me more details about the car (suspension, tires, shocks, etc) as well as the car's wet weight, I might be able to help further. Be sure to include your starting line technique and converter stall and flash speeds...

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 
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Discussion Starter #3
The shocks are stock, tires are MT 26x10x15's full slick, stock suspension right now but need advice on what to do, 3400lb car with driver and the stall is a 10" 3500. As for technique, I haven't used it at the track yet. With my old 2400 I was loading it up and launching. With the 3500 will I have any problems with holding it back at the line with the brakes?
When I stage I usually stage a bit shallow, just where the second yellow comes on and I seem to run fairly consistant .570-.600. I know theres some room for improvement but I hate red lights.
 

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Hmmm.....with that weight, I'd suggest that you start saving for a tight 8" converter...

With the engine turning 7K in the lights (about right for your combo), you would be running around 117 or so mph, accounting for converter slip....that's probably overly optimistic, since my race car runs just about that (118) and runs 11.40's...and weighs about 700 lbs less.

If you want to keep the stock suspension, I'd suggest going to a divisional NHRA race and listen and look closely in some of the Stock Eliminator pits....those guys can run 10's with stock springs and traction bars....

As long as you keep drum brakes in the rear, you shouldn't have any problem holding the car on the line....if you get serious, you can always get a trans brake..

Personally, I run the engine up to around 2700 against the brakes on illuminating the stage bulb (I stage fairly deep) and leave as the last yellow reaches full intensity....RT's average in the .515-.540 range...
But, remember, my car transmits nearly all of the engine torque into forward motion, with little chassis lift....not very exciting to watch but it does get down the track pretty well *G*

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 
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