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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have any advice on refreshening a low miles 91’ 5.0? I was planning on doin a full gasket set and new spark plugs. I don’t know much about engines but from looking at the thing those are the two things that stand out to me. Anything else I should replace while I’ve got it torn down? Engine has 80k miles (est) and has been stored inside for 10 years.

I’ll post some pics here soon.
 

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I think plugs and gaskets is a good start. How far do you want to go???? I just bought a 90K Explorer engine and was planning on doing nothing but spark plugs, gaskets and timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh nice, from what I’ve heard the explorer engines are really great.

Well as far as how much money I want to put into it I think that depends on the condition of the internals of the engine. I’m going to check for flatness everywhere that’s supposed to be flat and measure the crank with a micrometer etc. depending on what I find will determine what I do from there.

I’m hoping I can just do gaskets, spark plugs and maybe a harmonic balancer. Oh and probably a timing chain like you said. It would be the best possible outcome. I drained the oil yesterday and it looked as if no one had ever changed it. It was free of debris but I’m skeptical of what the engine will look like when I crack it open.
 

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Check your #1 main bearing. That’s the one that takes the most abuse in a SBF. If it’s worn out, you might consider a re-bearing job. (crank & rods)

Barring something catastrophic, cylinder walls should be good and not need honing.
 

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Rear main seal.

This last time I had my kid's 5.0 apart was the first time I've put oil in the engine while it's still on the engine stand/hoist to check for leaks....and I found them. It was the 3rd time installing the pan before I got it completely leak free.

Sure is a lot easier to track down and fix any oil leaks before it goes back into the car RATHER than assuming nothing will leak and finding out you're wrong after the first start up.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check your #1 main bearing. That’s the one that takes the most abuse in a SBF. If it’s worn out, you might consider a re-bearing job. (crank & rods)

Barring something catastrophic, cylinder walls should be good and not need honing.
Ok will do I hadn’t thought about the 1# main bearing at all. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Inspect oil pump too.
Gotcha

Rear main seal.

This last time I had my kid's 5.0 apart was the first time I've put oil in the engine while it's still on the engine stand/hoist to check for leaks....and I found them. It was the 3rd time installing the pan before I got it completely leak free.

Phil
Wow that sounds like a lot of bolting and unbolting. I’m sure I’ll make a few mistakes as such.
 

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I didn't make any mistakes installing the pan. The pan/gasket combination just wasn't sealing right. It required some extra RTV to get it completely leak free around the arched portion of the pan on both the front and back of the engine. This is not normally a spot most sources indicate you need to use any RTV....but I had to put a bead on both ends...which I am glad I found before it was back in the car as I'd have never gotten in 100% without pulling it again.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I didn't make any mistakes installing the pan. The pan/gasket combination just wasn't sealing right. It required some extra RTV to get it completely leak free around the arched portion of the pan on both the front and back of the engine. This is not normally a spot most sources indicate you need to use any RTV....but I had to put a bead on both ends...which I am glad I found before it was back in the car as I'd have never gotten in 100% without pulling it again.

Phil
That’s what I was assuming, I didn’t think you messed up the install. I feel like because the pan has so many areas where a gasket can have a leak it susceptible to things like what you mentioned. I’ll have to be sure a check for leaks BEFORE I put the engine in the car :)
 
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