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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, just to set the stage, this is my first Ford build. I have always raced, drove and worked on Bow-ties. I have always loved Mustangs and finally had a change to buy this one a few years ago. I also acquired a 91 model 302 short block in the deal. So, now I have been completely frustrated with the whole trial and error, while re-learning my way around this thing.

I plan to cruise it with the better half (A/C, power steering and brakes) and pass it along to my 12yo daughter, who already LOVES the car and says it's half hers already (with grease from head to toe, cause I am not allowed to work on it without her)!!!

Anyways, my latest issue is what do do with the electronic ignition and distributor that came in the 91. Should I just replace it with a vacuum advance or is there an application for electronic controls and advance?
I already know to use steel gears on whatever distributor I use, and since I plan to go with an EFI system, I don't have to worry about having a fuel pump mount in the timing chain cover. It had a 390fe with a top loader 4spd previously, so I imagine there might be some changes for the transmission and drive shaft.

Any guidance / advice is greatly appreciated. I am determined to learn this new platform and hang up my bow-ties... I even bought me an F-150 this year.
 

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Well what EFI system are you planning on going with? If not EEC-iv (Stock 5.0 EFI) then no, that particular distributor isn't much help. Although no matter whta EFI you are going with, I definitely would use electronic timing and not vacuum. The latter seems like a strange thing to do.

(But you say 91 Short block, so what exactly did it come with, if it came with ignition?)
 

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68 Mustang Coupe
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I think we need more to go on. What do you have, and what are your plans. Is it just the short block? Do you have the 390 4 speed? What trans do you want to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have an 80s model AOD that I plan to drop off at the local trans shop for a freshening up. I am also looking at the Sniper system (kit) From Holly for the EFI. The stock distributer is in it now and I have installed an E303 cam for S&Gs. I still have the stock heads and intake right now. But I am planning to swap to an edelbrock RPM. Aluminum heads will likely be an upgrade at some point in the future.
 

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Firstly, forget the Sniper kit, from where you are now. Get the Edelbrock Pro-Flo4. The Sniper is... terrible, and you need all the parts the PF4 kit comes with anyways. (Such as distributor, intake, etc).
 

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1970 Sportroof Mustang Grabber Value Package
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Welcome to the Blue Oval family.
You can find lots of help here, good luck and we like pictures.
 

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Welcome to the VMF and the Ford family. There are many really nice EFI options out there, so do some research on this forum as to what works, doesn't work, and what mods/tweaks each need.

For my EFI conversion for my 67, I used the original foxbody system using the same block you have as it is a proven system. Many will say their are limitations to the system because it is decades old, but for my use as a cruiser, and even daily if I wanted, it is literally 'get in, turn the key, and go for a drive' setup. There are still many thousands of foxbodies on the road. If I need any parts, I can stop at any auto parts store, tell them I have a '90 Mustang GT, and they will have the parts on the shelf. Aside from the requirement with all EFI systems to modify the fuel system for higher PSI, the original system was easy to install and required zero tuning after install. I chose to purchase a Ron Francis wiring kit vs spending the time to modify the original harness - this made the install ever easier. Attached is a picture of mine during installation.

It also comes down to what parts you already have, what you are willing to purchase further (such as a foxbody donor car or aftermarket EFI system, etc), and the end result you are looking for. I hope this helps and good luck with your project.
IMG_4011.JPG
 

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Oh. So a spy is among us? Just messin with ya. Welcome to Ford, and leave those Shove Or Leave Its behind.
 

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Seems like he doesn't have any of the original EFI parts from what I gather, so amassing parts to make an eec-iv seems expensive and pointless (If he already had them, that may be a different story), plus the Fox aftermarket intakes are very expensive for what they afford you.
 

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Consider the Pro Flo 4. Since you probably need to buy a new intake and distributor, the cost is going to be similar to buying those, plus the throttle body style EFI. (or +1 to this suggestion)

Heads up on choosing your timing cover. You need a front sump oil pan, which means you need the dipstick in the timing cover. That is assuming you have one with your donor engine. Choices you need to make now on things you may not learn until later.

Depending on how much of the 91 engine parts you have, my blog may help with some foreshadowing of future questions and problems as I am putting a similar engine in my 65
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Seems like he doesn't have any of the original EFI parts from what I gather, so amassing parts to make an eec-iv seems expensive and pointless (If he already had them, that may be a different story), plus the Fox aftermarket intakes are very expensive for what they afford you.
I only have the crate block with heads and another "donor" motor to rob pulleys and bolts off of. No electronics, ECM or anything... so I'm really starting from scratch on that side.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've been checking out the Pro Flo and wow. That looks to be a good option. The front sump oil pan is a bit of a surprise... I was actually just about to start looking at them! (Thanks BradAlbrecht). I will take a look at that blog of yours.

So, I guess that I need to crap can this donor timing cover too! Is it necessary to plug the original dipstick hole in that case? Also, really wondering about the transmission mounts at this point. I havn't test fitted it or the block yet, but imagine there may be some mods needed from the previous big block and 4 speed top loader (@Redneckgearhead... I don't have the 4 speed top loader that came out).
Aaaaaaand, just thinking about the oil pump set-up... I bet there will be a different pick-up tube or something with that too.

Thanks for the help guys, you are heroes and may help me to save whats left of my hair!!!
 

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If I remember right, the original dipstick hole is on the side of your block and will need to be plugged. You may be able to get away with drilling the hole in the timing cover since you dont need the mechanical pump either. And with the front sump pan, yes you need a new pickup, but they are cheap at summit.

Is your donor motor an early V belt front end, or a later serpentine belt setup? The water pump will be defined by that as well. Also, if you go with a 70+ timing cover, you need a driver side inlet(?) hose where earlier, both are on the passenger side. I think there are like 6 different timing covers with the variables for water pump/dipstick/fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My donor is a later serpentine setup, So I ordered the water pump with counter clockwise rotation I think? (whichever one is specified for the 91 model). I had to look... but I does have the driver side inlet (whew)! So, I am coming to the realization that I may have spent a little too much for this "donor", since I can;t use the distributor, timing cover, oil pan, and dip stick. I think I could still use the pulley brackets and bolts, but I think I could have just bought that stuff outright from Summit. I wonder if the is any other sucker...um... demand, on the market place for 302s?LOL
 

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I kept my 5.0 HO as it was off the fox (Serpentine, reverse wp, etc, etc). I just make sure I order engine parts for a Fox engine.
I plugged the side dipstick hole, and drilled a new dipstick hole in the Fox timing cover, so the dipstick comes up behind the alternator.
Front sump oil pan and pickup was about $50 or so off Summit.

Now mind you I use a larger 'universal' aluminum radiator that I purchased to match up to this engine. Maybe the stock Fox setup wouldn't work with an original radiator. I have no idea. Never owned one.
 

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If you use the front serpentine system from the donor, I think you will find yourself in the black vs buying a whole setup on Summit or CVF Racing, etc. Those brackets get spendy, and the mix and match tends to cause belt alignment issues as parts change so much. Not a bad plan with a donor. Also, if the donor is a complete engine, at least its a roller block core for someone once you take what you want off it, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Very good point! I was not thinking about it being a roller block. And i'm glad to hear from someone who actually drilled the timing cover and made it work (thanks again JohnnyK). I was looking at front sump oil pans earlier and found some pretty expensive results. I will have to go back and look again. @JohhnyK- do you happen to have a part number or anything for that pan and pick-up?
 

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This is the pickup I just used. Melling Oil Pump Screen Assemblies 68-S
Dont forget these too: Melling Heavy-Duty Intermediate Driveshafts IS-68
ARP Oil Pan Bolt Kits 254-1802

The 5.0 oil pan has a support requiring the bolts to be longer. I dont remember if you can use the same support with the early pan, but if you cant, you need those shorter bolts. I didnt use the 5.0 supports (where the washer would be).

This is the oil pan I have used a couple times: Summit Racing® Stock Replacement Oil Pans SUM-G3520B It's the same as the stock pan.
 

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I think mine was the same except Chrome because it was cheaper at the time (sure is ugly though). I think it was about $50 or so back in the day.

Wait, why a donor? Brad said it's a roller donor. Are you not running the 5.0HO? In which case this whole conversation is moot. hah
 
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