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Toasty
like others have already mentioned being as this is your first SBF
my suggestion is to stick with all 87-93 5.0 Foxbody front engine accessories, there are many nuances surrounding the front dressings on a SBF through out the 60’s 70’s 80’s & 90’s
The scary thing is many of these SBF front accessories will bolt together however they may not function properly.
Used Fox surpentine brackets may look old and grimy but will clean up, look presentable and get your car on the road. they can always be swapped out for a 5.0 billet system at a later date.
here’s a few tips
try a 1/4 NPT tap on the 5.0 factory dip stick hole, and plug with 1/4 NPT plug

drill a 3/8 hole on the corresponding timing cover boss where the front sump dip stick was located on earlier Mustangs

if your donor engines came with the oil pan rail supports, use them with longer hardware they do work , and can help prevent nuisance leaks

Use only 50oz flex plates, flywheels and harmonic balancers on your 5.0
stay away from anything 28oz

don’t forget to bolt on the stamped steel timing pointer while bolting on timing cover

your 5.0 will have the lower rad hose connection on the drivers side, earlier 302’s and 289’s were on the passenger, check with the online vendors there may be a retrofit rad hose kit that will allow an original style rad

what ever distributor you end up using ensure the distributor gear is pressed on in the correct position, compare with your oem motorcraft, I’ve had a few new replacements including high end billet distributors that have had issues out of the box.

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
So, yes I do have a roller donor... and a roller crate block, bottom end. and heads. The "donor" parts are referring to the pulleys, brackets, timing cover and what bolts are usable from the old roller motor.
The links to the oil pan and accessories above are appreciated. I don't know why they didn't pop up when I searched them.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Toasty
like others have already mentioned being as this is your first SBF
my suggestion is to stick with all 87-93 5.0 Foxbody front engine accessories, there are many nuances surrounding the front dressings on a SBF through out the 60’s 70’s 80’s & 90’s
The scary thing is many of these SBF front accessories will bolt together however they may not function properly.
Used Fox surpentine brackets may look old and grimy but will clean up, look presentable and get your car on the road. they can always be swapped out for a 5.0 billet system at a later date.
here’s a few tips
try a 1/4 NPT tap on the 5.0 factory dip stick hole, and plug with 1/4 NPT plug

drill a 3/8 hole on the corresponding timing cover boss where the front sump dip stick was located on earlier Mustangs

if your donor engines came with the oil pan rail supports, use them with longer hardware they do work , and can help prevent nuisance leaks

Use only 50oz flex plates, flywheels and harmonic balancers on your 5.0
stay away from anything 28oz

don’t forget to bolt on the stamped steel timing pointer while bolting on timing cover

your 5.0 will have the lower rad hose connection on the drivers side, earlier 302’s and 289’s were on the passenger, check with the online vendors there may be a retrofit rad hose kit that will allow an original style rad

what ever distributor you end up using ensure the distributor gear is pressed on in the correct position, compare with your oem motorcraft, I’ve had a few new replacements including high end billet distributors that have had issues out of the box.

good luck!
Wow... lots of great info! I am making a checklist of these points as we speak. Thank you much.
 

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Welcome to the forum, @Toasty ! I have a 67 coupe also, with a roller cam 302 from a 92 Mustang. Same camshaft, along with Edelbrock aluminum heads and Air Gap intake. I am running Holley Sniper EFI on mine and am very happy with it. The Pro4 system was not available when I bought the Sniper, so when you factor in the cost of an intake, distributor, etc, it is probably the way to go. Anyway, my $0.02 is to keep all the accessory drive set-up from the 5.0 and change to a driver side inlet radiator. Much easier and you have improved cooling as well. I saw some advice on drilling a dipstick hole in the timing cover. I personally would not do that. I am using the normal 5.0 dipstick hole on the driver's side of the block. I bought a little stainless Lokar dipstick tube and it works great, no issues. Good luck! Feel free to message me if I can help you!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Welcome to the forum, @Toasty ! I have a 67 coupe also, with a roller cam 302 from a 92 Mustang. Same camshaft, along with Edelbrock aluminum heads and Air Gap intake. I am running Holley Sniper EFI on mine and am very happy with it. The Pro4 system was not available when I bought the Sniper, so when you factor in the cost of an intake, distributor, etc, it is probably the way to go. Anyway, my $0.02 is to keep all the accessory drive set-up from the 5.0 and change to a driver side inlet radiator. Much easier and you have improved cooling as well. I saw some advice on drilling a dipstick hole in the timing cover. I personally would not do that. I am using the normal 5.0 dipstick hole on the driver's side of the block. I bought a little stainless Lokar dipstick tube and it works great, no issues. Good luck! Feel free to message me if I can help you!
Thank you much. I'm sure that I will be giving you a shout.. So, just to make sure that I am understanding the set-up, you are running a front sump pan and pick-up with the stock dipstick in the block, on the driver's side? I sure hope that is right!! I had all but decided to just go with the radiator with the driver's side inlet... I agree that it seems the easiest route.
 

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Thank you much. I'm sure that I will be giving you a shout.. So, just to make sure that I am understanding the set-up, you are running a front sump pan and pick-up with the stock dipstick in the block, on the driver's side? I sure hope that is right!! I had all but decided to just go with the radiator with the driver's side inlet... I agree that it seems the easiest route.
Nooooooooooow I know why people are saying this. Had a brain fart, LOL. I am running a MII front suspension so I am using the Fox body pan, vs a front sump. Sorry about that error!
 

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Gesh, lot to go on here, as I had this same decision when I did 1990 302 in my 69. Ultimately I went carb. I think it is the simplest answer. For ignition, I used a MSD 6AL, factory style 1990 coil and MSB 8598 for the distributor. Works great.

If I were going EFI, I would use a Holley Terminator system. Will support any future power goals.
Pro-Flo 4 as mentioned
But there is also MegaSquirt

If you went with a factory style setup. The Ron Francis wiring harness is nice.

Its all in what you want to do.

I run the serpentine setup in my 69 with Power steering. Biggest issue I had is the High pressure line to the PS control Valve from the Power Steering pump. I ended up making a hose from Russel Powerflex hose and used some adapters.

For my dip stick, I just got rid of it. I just change my oil once a year.
 
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Discussion Starter #29
Update- I just figured out that I am not going to be able to use the stock pushrods with my roller rockers after installing guide plates. With the rockers bottomed out against the stud, I still need about 1/4 in., so I'm looking at 6.5 inches. I actually found an old timing cover that I forgot that I had, with the dipstick hole, and trying to decide if i'n going to drop this AOD off at the trans shop or order a master rebuild kit and "Git er done". I have done some shift kits on bowties with no issues in my time. what do you guys think?
 
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