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Discussion Starter #1
So I saw a killer deal on 98 GT wheels with tires. Thought I could put them on the car while I finish it up so I can see the stance. However, a few issues come up as soon as I put the wheel on...


1) Only about 3/8" of the thread is showing out of the wheel... doesn't seem to be enough to get the lugs on solid.
2) When turning the wheel it is hitting against the upper control arm ball joint bump.
3) When turning the wheel it is very close to the outer tie rod/spindle


I included some photos below. I would think a 17" wheel would have given me a lot more space.


HELP!
 

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Welcome to the world of trying to fit late model wheels on early model cars. The backspacing is critical and they are not the same for early and late models. Most people who do what you're doing wind up using spacers about 1" thick.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh great. I think the rubbing at the top may be due to the camber. I put in new LCAs so I think I have it leaning in too much to start. Bigger concern is the amount of thread left on the wheel for the lugs.
 

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The offset on late model wheels is different than vintage Mustangs and they are not interchangeable without modifications. It appears you are using lug nuts for steel wheels on those allow wheels. You must use allow wheel specific lug nuts that go down into the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was using the ones that the guy gave me. Maybe he gave me the wrong ones. I did notice that there was about a 1/8" gap around each hole. I'll see about running out and getting lugs for an aluminum wheel and compare. If my camber is off that may be who the uppers are rubbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ran out and looked at the nuts. They do taper down to fit inside the hole.... about 3/8" of it would fit.
 

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I was using the ones that the guy gave me. Maybe he gave me the wrong ones. I did notice that there was about a 1/8" gap around each hole. I'll see about running out and getting lugs for an aluminum wheel and compare. If my camber is off that may be who the uppers are rubbing.
First, the seller is not responsible for giving you the correct lug nuts. You are. Second, as already mentioned, those wheels need a wheel spacer (usually 1") in order to fit correctly. This is common knowledge here if you do some searches using the search function. Best of luck.
 

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I ran out and looked at the nuts. They do taper down to fit inside the hole.... about 3/8" of it would fit.
That "killer deal" will mean another set of wheel studs for you to acquire/install, and adapter/spacers too.

Or you could resell those wheels and tires and get some that fit as were designed to. Your call.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I understand it is my responsibility. All I did was simply hand tighten them to see how the wheel would sit. After going back out and turning to spec, the lug nuts did seat better. the only issue is the rubbing on the upper ball joint section of the UCA. I put on the fender and it looks like the sit well. A 1" space would put the wheel about 1/2" beyond the plumb line of the fender.


As for common knowledge. It is common knowledge that the back spacing is different but if you ask 5 people what to do, you would get 5 different answers.


Thanks for the quick feedback guys.
 

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You can just ask "What is the maximum back space that will fit the front?"
Answer :Depends on wheel diameter and brake rotor thickness and if the upper control arm is modified for clearance.
A 18X8 with 5" BS cleared the upper control arm on my 68.
A 17X8 with 5" BS required the upper control arm "flange" around the upper ball joint to be trimmed and rolled down.

Both required the bump stop to be trimmed but the tire still rubbed the hood that covers the spring.

I had no rubbing problems until I started auto crossing the car.
 

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I understand it is my responsibility. All I did was simply hand tighten them to see how the wheel would sit. After going back out and turning to spec, the lug nuts did seat better. the only issue is the rubbing on the upper ball joint section of the UCA. I put on the fender and it looks like the sit well. A 1" space would put the wheel about 1/2" beyond the plumb line of the fender.


As for common knowledge. It is common knowledge that the back spacing is different but if you ask 5 people what to do, you would get 5 different answers.


Thanks for the quick feedback guys.
Please don't drive the car before measuring the thread engagement of the lug nuts. Just because it "torques up" doesn't mean it's safe to run, I think you need longer studs. Quick check: count the number of turns from starting to full tight, then take the wheel off and run the nut up that same # of turns. Mark a line at the base of the nut, take off the nut and measure the actual thread engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
HappyStang - These are not the final wheels. I needed a cheap set to get the car back on all 4. I'll be buying new wheels/tires when we get closer to actually having a functional car. I probably should have said that in my first post. I know I wanted 17" so I have been searching for a cheap set of 17"s so I can get the car back on dollies, torque the new steering linkage to spec, and what not.

As for the spacers, I did pick up a set up 1" adapters and now everything fits nicely. Once the car is road worthy I'll switch the wheels to the newer ones with correct offset.
 

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FWIW, one of the el cheapo ways of getting "roll around" wheels is to get 4 spare wheels/donuts for late model Grand Marquis/Crown Vics.
Ah yes. The old disposable wheels routine. I bought some cheap when I grabbed my Explorer rear at the local salvage yard. When done, bye, bye. :pirate:
 
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So I saw a killer deal on 98 GT wheels with tires. Thought I could put them on the car while I finish it up so I can see the stance. However, a few issues come up as soon as I put the wheel on...


1) Only about 3/8" of the thread is showing out of the wheel... doesn't seem to be enough to get the lugs on solid.
2) When turning the wheel it is hitting against the upper control arm ball joint bump.
3) When turning the wheel it is very close to the outer tie rod/spindle


I included some photos below. I would think a 17" wheel would have given me a lot more space.


HELP!
So you did no searching to find that you need spacers and longer lugs?
 
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