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Discussion Starter #1
I am putting factory A/C in my '66. I have a couple of questions.

What size bolt was used to attach the evaporator to the dash?

How does one get safely get the caps off of the sanden compressor to hook the lines up to it?

I need a drain hole cover for the interior, where can I get one of those?

Where is the best place to get power to the evaporator?
 

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I am putting factory A/C in my '66. I have a couple of questions.

What size bolt was used to attach the evaporator to the dash?

How does one get safely get the caps off of the sanden compressor to hook the lines up to it?

I need a drain hole cover for the interior, where can I get one of those?

Where is the best place to get power to the evaporator?
Just put CAA in my 66 coupe.

Bolt size. Came with kit. Are you putting this together on your own?

Caps off compressor. Just unscrewed them. Nothing special

Drain hole cover Don’t think they exist. I drilled the hole in the floor with the carpet lifted up. Then punched a hole through the carpet with progressively larger Phillips screw drivers.

Power to the evaporator. I have the updated fuse box from Scott Drake wiring kit. Connected there.

Allen
 

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Here’s a link that may help

 

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What size bolt was used to attach the evaporator to the dash?
1/4"

How does one get safely get the caps off of the sanden compressor to hook the lines up to it?
My Sanden compressor came with a metal plate that covered the ports bolted to it. Remove the bolt and the plate and attach the correct fittings. There is no freon in the new compressor.

I need a drain hole cover for the interior, where can I get one of those?
You need to drill a hole in the passenger side of the transmission tunnel to attach a drain hose. Why do you need a drain hole cover?

Where is the best place to get power to the evaporator?
You can buy an A/C wiring harness that plugs into an accessory port in the under dash wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just put CAA in my 66 coupe.

Bolt size. Came with kit. Are you putting this together on your own?

Caps off compressor. Just unscrewed them. Nothing special

Drain hole cover Don’t think they exist. I drilled the hole in the floor with the carpet lifted up. Then punched a hole through the carpet with progressively larger Phillips screw drivers.

Power to the evaporator. I have the updated fuse box from Scott Drake wiring kit. Connected there.

Allen
I bought the A/C kit from CAA but I sent in a factory under dash evaporator and they sent me back a restored unit. I guess they thought I had the hardware but I don't. Drain tube covers do exist and NPD use to carry them but I can't find them on their site. My wiring is still very much stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This may help with what I am talking about regarding the compressor. I have looked at pictures online and all I see are plastic caps. These are not plastic and I don't want to booger any threads up and cost me more money. They look like beer bottle caps to me.
756423
 

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This may help with what I am talking about regarding the compressor. I have looked at pictures online and all I see are plastic caps. These are not plastic and I don't want to booger any threads up and cost me more money. They look like beer bottle caps to me.
View attachment 756423

Very simple. Put channel locks, (big pliers) on them and turn counter-clockwise :) This is what I did. Now, that said do not remove them until you are ready to attach the hoses with the big connectors AND the rest of the system is set up and sealed. Also,don't forget to put the o-rings on the fittings ends AND oil them too!

Your compressor is not loaded with refrigerant but there IS oil pre-loaded in CAA's sanden compressors. There will be some pressure/gas most likely. Mine had some...and you don't want any oil to leak out. A tiny bit might bubble up and drip but no more than that. It will be a bit o foamy stuff. No biggie.

Just make sure if you do charging, or pay a service technician to do it that they 1) don't suck the oil out when vacuuming. 2) Do not add oil as per the instructions there is a full oil charge and adding more oil will destroy stuff.

Reason you do not want any other part of the system open is that if all is set up, condenser and dryer...the reciever dryer's job is to suck up moisture. You get a little air in the system...and don't charge it for a while that's fine. It sits open overnight etc....it will sop up moisture and be ruined.

I also have the under dash unit. Used to do A/C when I was a student mechanic. Will be charging my installed system next week after my vacuum pump, and manifold set arrives. Gigitty!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wiring
HARNESS WIRING A/C UNDER DASH RUNS TO THE - #19945-1 - National Parts Depot

mounting hardware
MOUNTING KIT A/C EVAPORATOR CONCOURS 6 - #19601-1AK - National Parts Depot

not sure what you mean by a “drain hole cover”. There is a round hose retainer that goes around the hose and screws to the floor. No one reproduces these that I am aware of. The 65 A/C has a drain hose cover, but not the 66
1964 1/2 - 1965 Ford Mustang Air Conditioning AC Evaporator Drain Hose Cover | eBay
I have the Wiring Harness I just need to know where is the best place to connect for power.

My mistake on the drain hole cover, I thought they were in '66 as well. I guess it's ugly drain in sight then.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Very simple. Put channel locks, (big pliers) on them and turn counter-clockwise :) This is what I did. Now, that said do not remove them until you are ready to attach the hoses with the big connectors AND the rest of the system is set up and sealed. Also,don't forget to put the o-rings on the fittings ends AND oil them too!

Your compressor is not loaded with refrigerant but there IS oil pre-loaded in CAA's sanden compressors. There will be some pressure/gas most likely. Mine had some...and you don't want any oil to leak out. A tiny bit might bubble up and drip but no more than that.

Reason you do not want any other part of the system open is that if all is set up, condenser and dryer...the reciever dryer's job is to such up moisture. You get a little air in the system...and don't charge it for a while that's fine. It sits open overnight etc....it will sop up moisture and be ruined.

I also have the under dash unit. Used to do A/C when I was a student mechanic. Will be charging my installed system next week after my vacuum pump, and manifold set arrives. Gigitty!
What did you connect your power wire to?
 

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What did you connect your power wire to?
I've hooked up so many dog-garn power wires for various things in the last few months I'm, having a foggy time remembering. We are talking about the blower motor for the under-dash evap assembly?......AH just remembered. If it's that they come with a little brass 'tap' (not what it's really called probably) and this inserts into the crescent of the 14A of the heater fuse (really sets under/in with the fuse) is supposed to be 20A I think but the 14A works fine for now just got new 20A fuses that fit). So then the power connector connects off of that brass tap thingy. You aren't going to be running heater and A/C blower at same time (don't try lol unless you want to torch the fuse). My blower works great on all speeds. Beyond that I have not tested any operation because....I've not charged it up yet :) Was waiting for winter to end and it took its sweet old time.
 

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I have the Wiring Harness I just need to know where is the best place to connect for power.

My mistake on the drain hole cover, I thought they were in '66 as well. I guess it's ugly drain in sight then.
Connect the power the way Ford did it, check your Factory shop manual or wiring diagram. It’s quite simple. It connects to the accessory power feed on the back of the Ignition switch.

In 65 the evaporator hoses come out from the drivers side so they put a cover over it. To match they had the hose cover on the passenger side. In 66 they moved the hoses to the center where they are hidden and got rid of both covers.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Oh, Does the clear "rubber" or is it "plastic" come off of the S-shaped aluminum line before install or does that stay on?
 

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Oh, Does the clear "rubber" or is it "plastic" come off of the S-shaped aluminum line before install or does that stay on?
It stays on
 
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Connect the power the way Ford did it, check your Factory shop manual or wiring diagram. It’s quite simple. It connects to the accessory power feed on the back of the Ignition switch.

In 65 the evaporator hoses come out from the drivers side so they put a cover over it. To match they had the hose cover on the passenger side. In 66 they moved the hoses to the center where they are hidden and got rid of both covers.
Overkill in my opinion. My original A/C was installed in 1973 (on my 68' Coupe) by Sears not Ford. It worked great for longer than I was alive hooked up to the heater blower fuse. So I think that setup is proven, safe and effective. New A/C came with the same 'tap' method although I reused my vintage tap because it was much easier to deal with. New unit had a brass spike.

The under-dash units are also double protected with an inline fuse. But rating is higher than the fuse panel so I will probably swap it once things are working.
 

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Hmm. ”It worked great for longer than I was alive” I didn’t know you were dead?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just for anyone else, I wound up connecting my power into the heater fuse using a Glass Fuse Power Tap from NAPA. The heater fuse is a switched fuse and the A/C line has its own inline fuse as well. So I put the Power Tap on the "Hot" side of the Heater Fuse so when the switch is on power is supplied directly to the A/C evaporator. Works well. Now I just have to drill my drain hole and everything will then get cleaned up and buttoned up inside.
 

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Hmm. ”It worked great for longer than I was alive” I didn’t know you were dead?
I'm 41 years old. Original A/C and wiring was in installed in 73 on a 68 Mustang'. Do the math! ;) I wasn't born yet. So technically not dead, but not alive.
 
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