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Discussion Starter #1
My hydraulic clutch master screwed up the last time I used the car and barely got it in the garage for the winter before it died. Since they are offset from the hole in the pedal, they do tend to go out, I learn by reading posts that after about 4k miles they die, unless you get the Modern Driveline rube goldberg setup they came up with after complaints regarding failing masters I guess. When I took it apart, I find that it didn't die from a downward offset load but from a side load. Since I used the original L dowel through the pedal hole, I figure somehow its putting a side load on the shaft. So I design in a heim joint at the pedal like the MD system and figure I'll just put it back together with a new cylinder with a heim. SOOOO out comes the system, it gets a new master and fully bleed and returned to the car. Whilst assembling the heim to the clutch pedal, it interferes with a weldment stop on the pedal - Hmmmmm. So it has to come out for modification. Since I built my EPAS into the pedal frame, Its not so easy to take out so:
  • The dash came out for upper access
  • the Spring is not fun to take out took 2 hours to figure out how to get it off without losing a tooth
  • the duct had to come out to make room for the clutch to slide right which mean
  • the emergency brake and duct knob had to come out
  • Then grind clearance for the heim in the pedal
  • Prime and paint the pedal...
So what i figured was a 40 minute job took all afternoon and the car sits completely apart requiring an another afternoon to assemble it, which will include 20 minutes looking for a duct nut that went behind the carpet and every time I reach back there it goes farther down UGH!

After all this work, the car is just fixed, no improvements to go enjoy, no fun weldments to admire - I just get to drive again

Sigh, I love this hobby - I love this hobby - I love this hobby...

All autocrosses on Covid crash Sigh...
 

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I had to pull my C4 tranny 5 times to fix and diagnose various bad and leaky parts. Even with the aid of a full shop and lift its a hell of a job! Imagine the joy of pulling and reinstalling with no torque converter just so you can verify is the converter shaking like a paint mixer AFTER replacing the crank damper and flywheel. Heck 6 times if you include that 馃ぃ
 

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I have been fighting a lazy passenger side electric door lock on my wife鈥檚 66 ever since I installed it. Every time I think it鈥檚 fixed, I take a drive, park and it won鈥檛 lock. Was in and out of that door way too many times to count and what started as a new door panel and fresh door paint is now a bit worse for wear. Has nothing to do with my frustrations of that damn door lock...馃お.

Well, I just finally figured it out; the lock solenoid was weak from the get go and just didn鈥檛 have the oomph to reliably work correctly. I cut it open and found that the lock motor steel core, the laminated bit, had shifted and wasn鈥檛 aligned properly. The motor couldn鈥檛 generate the needed torque because of this unseen defect. It felt like it was enough, and operated fine visually, but not enough oomph once it was installed.

We love this 鈥渉obby鈥 though, right?!?! It鈥檚 so rewarding... after chasing your tail for umpteen hours to eventually figure out a new $8 part was defective and you鈥檝e just spent 10X that replacing other parts all around it thinking 鈥渋t can鈥檛 be broken, it鈥檚 new鈥...

I think it鈥檚 called a love-hate relationship...馃ぃ
 

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I've been fighting my mufflers, tail pipes and rear brake hose for who knows how long. I think I've got it now.
 

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I carved a canyon yesterday
download (1)shrug.png
:whistle:
Also gave Finger Lakes Region a Knudge about scheduling something ,we'll see how that works out
 

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I've been fighting my trunk latch pull for 5 years. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's not a piece of rocket science. It's a pull cable attached to a simple adapter. I'have had it apart so many times, I've forgotten. When I get really bored for something to do I revisit.....for now, I just use a key......
 

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I have had a misaligned trunk lid since having the car repaired and painted after a crash in the left rear quarter in 1995.
I fiddle-farted around until last weekend I cut the trunk weatherstrip completely off, kept messing with it until I got it the best it has ever been, but it still isn't perfect. And now I have to put a new trunk weatherstrip on it. But it does open with the old remote and key, and closes well. Pretty stoked.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I think my Mustang hates me, today I ended up with a bloody lip and the car further taken apart! I went to put it together and ended up taking the steering wheel off for better access, still disassembling. I should explain that the car is in a garage up against the wall so I cannot open the drivers door leaving me to do this entire job from the passenger side.

Got the clutch installed and started trying to get the spring on. At one point I noticed the pedal it didn't feel right, it was loose so I found that the shaft was loose in the pedal so it had to come out again - this is where I smacked myself in the upper lip pretty good trying to get it out. Welded the pin solid - repainted it and decided that it was time to put things down for the day as I was getting pretty frustruated.

Question: How do you get the frigg'n spring on? What a nightmare trying to get that spring back in.
 

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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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Found the instruction on Glazier website.

"Most of the "backyard mechanic" ways of removing this spring deadly dangerous. This method is perfectly safe, easy, and quick. On a 64-66 Mustang, you need to disconnect the upper clutch rod from the pedal. Grasp the pedal with both hands, and lower it to the floor. Since it is an assist spring, it will try very hard to slam to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor, remove the up limit stop on the pedal support bracket. Pull the pedal up toward the dash, and the tension on the spring will be released, and the spring will likely fall out. Installation is the reverse. Pull the pedal up toward the dash, until the spring bracket and spring hook on the pedal are close enough to put the spring on with zero tension. Place the nylon spring bushings (7A630) on the bracket and pedal, and install the spring into the two nylon insulators. Carefully lower the pedal, until the weight of the pedal holds the spring and insulators in place. Grasp the pedal with both hands, and lower it to the floor. Since it is an assist spring, it will try very hard to slam to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor, install the up limit stop on the pedal support bracket. Grasp the pedal with both hands, and lift it up to the stop. Since it travels over-center, it will try to hit the stop. Now install the upper clutch rod."

Clutch Assist spring
 

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Question: Since you are running a Hyd Clutch setup, why do you need the spring at all?

When I converted mine to Hyd, I did not re-install the clutch assist spring with no ill effects.
 

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Sorry to hear of your misfortune. It sounds like every single task I attempt on either of my cars.

So, do you have any pics of the EPAS on the pedal support?

Ive seen a few and didnt save them for reference.

Im thinking about pulling my support and having it modified.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. It sounds like every single task I attempt on either of my cars.

So, do you have any pics of the EPAS on the pedal support?

Ive seen a few and didnt save them for reference.

Im thinking about pulling my support and having it modified.
Found the instruction on Glazier website.

"Most of the "backyard mechanic" ways of removing this spring deadly dangerous. This method is perfectly safe, easy, and quick. On a 64-66 Mustang, you need to disconnect the upper clutch rod from the pedal. Grasp the pedal with both hands, and lower it to the floor. Since it is an assist spring, it will try very hard to slam to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor, remove the up limit stop on the pedal support bracket. Pull the pedal up toward the dash, and the tension on the spring will be released, and the spring will likely fall out. Installation is the reverse. Pull the pedal up toward the dash, until the spring bracket and spring hook on the pedal are close enough to put the spring on with zero tension. Place the nylon spring bushings (7A630) on the bracket and pedal, and install the spring into the two nylon insulators. Carefully lower the pedal, until the weight of the pedal holds the spring and insulators in place. Grasp the pedal with both hands, and lower it to the floor. Since it is an assist spring, it will try very hard to slam to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor, install the up limit stop on the pedal support bracket. Grasp the pedal with both hands, and lift it up to the stop. Since it travels over-center, it will try to hit the stop. Now install the upper clutch rod."

Clutch Assist spring
Perfect THANKS!

Question: Since you are running a Hyd Clutch setup, why do you need the spring at all?

When I converted mine to Hyd, I did not re-install the clutch assist spring with no ill effects.
I tried it both ways and like the spring better. Since it assists when the pedal is on the floor, its a lot easier to hold the pedal at a light than without it.

So, do you have any pics of the EPAS on the pedal support?
756242


Theres lots more photos in the $200 EPAS mega thread somewhere...
 

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I found teh pics in the mega thread. Post #527 I think.

Im still in the planning stage, it will be 2-3 months before I get to this. Im sending the car for metal work and I need the steering in it so I cant pull anything out.

If I had a spare pedal support I could send that along as well and have it modified at the same time.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Well the saga has continued. Got in there to assemble everything and spent an hour removing the wrong bracket. Everything was behind the EPAS so it meant removing the EPAS. After an entire afternoon of climing in an out of a mustang from the passenger side and sliding upside down under the dash. I had the EPAS out and back twice, taking it out, removing the dash I finally got it all together and it appears I am with clutch again! Now I have to reassemble the rest of the car, Instrument panel steering wheel, turnsignal and she is ready to roar. Can't wait...

I will say the EPAS Design worked like a charm and its quite wonderful to work around. I remove one bolt and the two nuts under the steering column bracket and the entire thing just drops out. Since there is a knuckle right there you can literally set it on the ground on either side of the seat. out of the way.
 

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Stop,.. you are having way to much fun...hoping this next project will be a very simple fix...more time to reflect on how much fun you had updating and learning all about your clutch linkage!!t
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I finally found the issue, turns out the pivot for the clutch arm I fabricated broke. Seems I tacked it in place and forgot to go back and weld it together. Unfortunately the transmission had to come out but at least I was able to get to it without removing the scatter shield.

760105
 
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