[apalacpac]

So I've been posting a lot on here lately. To get everyone caught up. I just started up my 67 fastback type c, that has been sitting in my moms garage for almost 20 years. So now I want to work on the brakes.

I've attached some pics. First 3 are the fronts, and the last 3 with the red shoes are the rears.

I plan to replace all the drum hardware besides the drums and shoes. Drums I can get machined at a local auto store, and shoes look like they still have some life on them.


Here are some questions:
Front specs? 10x2?
Rear specs? 10x1.75 or 10x2?

Since the car sat for 20 years, how important is it to change all the brake lines assuming they have no cracks or kinks? Will the brake fluid eaten away or corroded the insides of the brake lines?
I really just want to get the car on the road,be able to drive it at a minimal cost and evaluate it later.

Thanks for the help and advice in advance!

 

[Webstang]

At a minimum, I would replace all rubber brake hoses along with the drum hardware you mentioned you will be replacing. Might as well replace the brake shoes while you are in there so everything is fresh and new. Your 67 should already have a dual reservoir master cylinder, so fresh fluid and a brake bleeding job and if engine and trans function, test drive time.

 

[ophthos]

You should mic the drums and see how much has been taken off if any. I don't have my manual in front of me but they are very clear about how much you can take off. Incidentally, on that note, you should get the workshop manual for your car if you don't have it.



I wouldn't skimp on the brakes, replace all the rubber hoses. Maybe also replace the springs and pads.



"I really just want to get the car on the road,be able to drive it at a minimal cost and evaluate it later." I get where your coming from but you also want to stop.

 

[awhtx]

Front specs? 10x2?
Rear specs? 10x1.75 or 10x2?

Measure the width of the lining material on the shoes to determine the width. Measure the ID of the drum to determine the diameter. It looks to me like you have 10" x 1.75" brakes.
The rear shoes look like they are hardly worn at all and I would use them. The front shoes look worn and the drum appears to be scored. An auto parts store that turns drums will measure them first and tell you if they can be turned.

As others have said replace the 3 rubber hoses. Unless rusted through from the outside the steel lines should be fine.

 

[CHOCK]

Rears are 1 3/4"
Drums look to be beyond turning.
A new master will be needed, no doubt.
All new rubber hoses.
Examine all metal lines--But only problem there is the moisture will also rot them internally.
Pay close attention to all brake hardware. Rusted parts go in junk, clean newer pieces keep, reuse.

As has been stated, You just don't guess with brakes. It's the tree/Semi/child on corner than you will be considered about-AFTER the fact.

 

[apalacpac]

Gotcha. Thanks for the input.

Been looking at parts...Raybestos or Dorman, which is the better of the two?

Also. How do I determine if I have power or manual brakes?

 

[CHOCK]

Sad, true facts, all these parts are not made in US. So, the quality of either will depend on which individuals were on the product line that minute when parts were made.

Is there a big round thing between the firewall and master cylinder?

 

[apalacpac]

Sad, true facts, all these parts are not made in US. So, the quality of either will depend on which individuals were on the product line that minute when parts were made.

Is there a big round thing between the firewall and master cylinder?

Nope. I figure that’s the brake booster I’ve seen in pictures.

Thanks for your help, hope to work with you in the near future and upgrade to front disc brakes.

When i started the car last week, my power steering made a loud whining noise when turning. Any suggestions for that? I’m guessing a full rebuild kit is needed?

 

[ophthos]

When i started the car last week, my power steering made a loud whining noise when turning. Any suggestions for that? I’m guessing a full rebuild kit is needed?

Look, I go no horse in this race. But there a many members here who routinely offer their expertise. Chock is one of them. If you need brake parts either drum or disk, give him a call.

Classic Mustang Disc Brake Conversions and Power Steering

Shaun at Street or Track is another one. I got my suspension parts from him. Great guy, spoke to him on the phone and he steered me right! (sorry for the pun)

 

[Woodchuck]

Don't forget to replace the wheel cylinders. Also, as long as you have everything removed check the backing plate wear "spots" (6 on each plate where the shoes ride) to make sure they aren't gouged. Now would be the time to weld up, grind flat and paint.

 

[awhtx]

Thanks for your help, hope to work with you in the near future and upgrade to front disc brakes.

If you intend to go with disc brakes don't waste any money on rebuilding those drum brakes. It will be money down the drain. New rubber hoses and new drums will cost a chunk of money and neither of them will be of any use with disc brakes.

 

[apalacpac]

If you intend to go with disc brakes don't waste any money on rebuilding those drum brakes. It will be money down the drain. New rubber hoses and new drums will cost a chunk of money and neither of them will be of any use with disc brakes.

I'll take the drums to a shop to see if they can be turned. If they can, I think I will proceed with drums for the mean time. Disc brakes weren't really in the picture for a couple years. Ideally, I'd like this to be driveable come spring, sooner hopefully.