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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Finally getting around to putting a heater core shutoff valve in Jane. Everyone said they got their basic ball valve shutoffs in the plumbing department at xyz building supply stores - but I cannot for the life of me find a 5/8" barbed ball valve shutoff fitting in any of them. Not even Grainger has it, and Grainger has everything as far as I'm concerned.

So - are you all just using 3/4" ball valves (which are abundantly available) and just jamming the 5/8" heater hoses onto them? Or 1/2" ball valves, which are also abundantly available?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, the Four Seasons one came up on the radar. That is a nice piece but I think I'd prefer a straight in-line valve with removable lever so the fitting is as unobtrusive as possible. Unfortunately the Four Seasons straight brass valve is set up for a cable actuator, no simple lever, so I am avoiding for now... for now.

Amazon has a number of ball valves that fit the bill (an example: https://www.amazon.com/Metalwork-Brass-Valve-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B07WLTTNYV/ ) but I'm real leery of the quality of stuff piled into their warehouses these days, especially with all of the manufacturing/supply issues we are having. In general I would trust a brand like Sharkbite or Four Seasons way before a no-name brand, and that's where the issue lies!

Thanks for the response.
 

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Kelly, numerous cars used cutoff valves and you can find them at any auto parts stores

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...0Ip1ANdbHmTYUQuMJYrk-1642136195-0-gaNycGzNCpE

You can also buy mechanically, vacuum, or electrically controlled valves from most of the aftermarket A/C auto A/C companies.

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If you want it to be as unobtrusive as possible ai would go with a black vacuum operated one. You can connect or disconnect the vacuum line when you want to switch seasons. Otherwise it will look like it belongs there (Ford used brass ones in 67/68).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you want it to be as unobtrusive as possible ai would go with a black vacuum operated one. You can connect or disconnect the vacuum line when you want to switch seasons. Otherwise it will look like it belongs there (Ford used brass ones in 67/68).
Was wondering about that! When I was eyeballing around the Four Seasons collection I saw that they do a lot of reman heater valves and there are quite a few cable actuated ones that I think would virtually disappear in the engine bay.

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Figure I wouldn't hook up the cable, of course, I'd just flip the switch over to whichever side to shut off flow as needed.

Not a fan of the plastic thing, but then again, OEMs use them on their cars for decades so likely me going after brass instead is not that productive. Black plastic certainly disappears better!
 

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That valve works very well, used it for years to shut off flow to my core during the summers.
 

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Was wondering about that! When I was eyeballing around the Four Seasons collection I saw that they do a lot of reman heater valves and there are quite a few cable actuated ones that I think would virtually disappear in the engine bay.

View attachment 824370


Figure I wouldn't hook up the cable, of course, I'd just flip the switch over to whichever side to shut off flow as needed.

Not a fan of the plastic thing, but then again, OEMs use them on their cars for decades so likely me going after brass instead is not that productive. Black plastic certainly disappears better!
They now reproduce the 67/68 style valves so you could use one of them easily if you want the brass look.

VALVE, HEATER WATER CONTROL - #18495-1A - National Parts Depot

or get it in black plastic replacement style

VALVE, HEATER WATER CONTROL - #18495-1 - National Parts Depot
 

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For convenience I considered a cable actuated shut off valve, but don't want more crap under the dash. I only open and close it twice a year anyway. Also, I wouldn't get a plastic one. I prefer this style. The one I have is threaded on the bottom and is in the intake but is the same design. Here is the inline style at Oreillys, if that is what you want to go with.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...mate-control-shut-off-valve/mry0/84706?pos=19





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67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
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Yep, the Four Seasons one came up on the radar. That is a nice piece but I think I'd prefer a straight in-line valve with removable lever so the fitting is as unobtrusive as possible. Unfortunately the Four Seasons straight brass valve is set up for a cable actuator, no simple lever, so I am avoiding for now... for now.

Amazon has a number of ball valves that fit the bill (an example: Amazon.com ) but I'm real leery of the quality of stuff piled into their warehouses these days, especially with all of the manufacturing/supply issues we are having. In general I would trust a brand like Sharkbite or Four Seasons way before a no-name brand, and that's where the issue lies!

Thanks for the response.
Kelly, I think you'd want to avoid a removable handle after your coolant foot wash incident. Wouldn't want to be searching for a handle...Some pretty clean options suggested.
 

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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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For convenience I considered a cable actuated shut off valve, but don't want more crap under the dash. I only open and close it twice a year anyway. Also, I wouldn't get a plastic one. I prefer this style. The one I have is threaded on the bottom and is in the intake but is the same design. Here is the inline style at Oreillys, if that is what you want to go with.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...mate-control-shut-off-valve/mry0/84706?pos=19





View attachment 824374





View attachment 824375
So did you get the threaded one at O'Reilly's as well? Do you happen to have a link with part #? I'd like to try to source one in Canada. Thanks.
 

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I like the one in post #12 that threads right into the intake.
I'm liking this one as well, but I'm thinking the in-line one might be easier to deal with if something fails on the valve, such as a leak. The one threaded into the intake would be more of an issue to deal with...just a thought.
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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I second the intake version. Cleaner install and look. The internals thread out for repair/replacement, shouldn’t be an issue going forward.
 
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If I were to do this, I would go with the one that threads into the intake also. For a "just in case" scenario, I would also keep a spare standard fitting in my box o' stuff that I haul around on road trips. That would guarantee I would never have an issue with the aftermarket one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
5/8 Barb Ball Hand Valve Air Water Fuel oil Line Pressed /vacuum Rust Resistant | eBay
I've used this on more than 1 car, its pretty clean looking. I also used the heat shrink hose clamp bands on the valve just to make it less obvious.
That is nice indeed! I like that the shutoff lever is smallish and black - would be able to leave that one on. I think I'll give it a try, especially if you've had no issues with leaks or anything.

For convenience I considered a cable actuated shut off valve, but don't want more crap under the dash. I only open and close it twice a year anyway. Also, I wouldn't get a plastic one. I prefer this style. The one I have is threaded on the bottom and is in the intake but is the same design. Here is the inline style at Oreillys, if that is what you want to go with.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...mate-control-shut-off-valve/mry0/84706?pos=19


View attachment 824375
The intake one is pretty cool! For those of you looking at O'Reillys, please note that the one that they sell that screws directly into the intake has 3/8" threads, so you'll need an adapter for some intakes.

For myself, I'd like to use that but the Weiand Stealth is not friendly to low-profile necks due to a really tall #1 intake runner. Since I need such a tall stand-off to clear that (2"+), I'd rather go with a separate in-line shutoff valve to avoid the shutoff being highly visible. However, those of you with Edelbrock intakes should be able to use it no problem!

Kelly, I think you'd want to avoid a removable handle after your coolant foot wash incident. Wouldn't want to be searching for a handle...Some pretty clean options suggested.
Believe me, it takes about 3 seconds for the entire system to empty onto your foot. Whether or not the handle is readily available would do absolutely nothing to help preserve coolant in the system!
 

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The intake one is pretty cool! For those of you looking at O'Reillys, please note that the one that they sell that screws directly into the intake has 3/8" threads, so you'll need an adapter for some intakes.

For myself, I'd like to use that but the Weiand Stealth is not friendly to low-profile necks due to a really tall #1 intake runner. Since I need such a tall stand-off to clear that (2"+), I'd rather go with a separate in-line shutoff valve to avoid the shutoff being highly visible. However, those of you with Edelbrock intakes should be able to use it no problem!
You're correct about the standoff / adapter. But now I actually can't remember if I had to adapt it to the threads or just needed to lift it to bring the hose up above the fuel line setup I have even though I'd kinda like to change that as well. Pretty sure this was the reason though.
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