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Discussion Starter #1
Hello-
I'm starting the body work on the 65 this week. A few questions have come up before I get started....

The stuff between the rain drip rail above the door adn the roof.... What is that crap? Kinda looks like caulk, and kinda looks like it was squirt in there. What is it? Does it go on top of the paint, or does paint and primer go on top of it? Any tips on getting the old out, adn getting new in?

A my last one.....

Did you guys wet sand in between every coat? I was planning on sanding/media blasting down to metal, throwing two coats of epoxy primer on her, guide coat, sand/bodywork, sand, three coats of high build, one coat sealer, three coats of base, five coats clear, wet sand, cut, buff, and wax.

Anything I'm missing? Do you guys wet sand in between every single coat, including primer, or do you get the body work perfect, do all primer, all color, all clear adn then sand?

Thanks for everyones help.....
 

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Hello-
I'm starting the body work on the 65 this week. A few questions have come up before I get started....

The stuff between the rain drip rail above the door adn the roof.... What is that crap? Kinda looks like caulk, and kinda looks like it was squirt in there. What is it? Does it go on top of the paint, or does paint and primer go on top of it? Any tips on getting the old out, adn getting new in?

A my last one.....

Did you guys wet sand in between every coat? I was planning on sanding/media blasting down to metal, throwing two coats of epoxy primer on her, guide coat, sand/bodywork, sand, three coats of high build, one coat sealer, three coats of base, five coats clear, wet sand, cut, buff, and wax.

Anything I'm missing? Do you guys wet sand in between every single coat, including primer, or do you get the body work perfect, do all primer, all color, all clear adn then sand?

Thanks for everyones help.....
Seam sealer goes over primer in the drip rail and than prime again before painting.

You do not want to wet sand until the last coat of primer because bondo absorbs moisture. The only time I use a guide coat is after all bodywork and block sanding is finished and I spray the final coat of primer than I wet sand to remove the guide coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!
Dumb question....
Are there more than one type of seam sealer? The stuff I got for all the seams in the floor pan seems to stay pretty soft...
 

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Thanks!
Dumb question....
Are there more than one type of seam sealer? The stuff I got for all the seams in the floor pan seems to stay pretty soft...
3M Fast 'N Firm in a caulking gun tube.

Did you guys wet sand in between every coat? I was planning on sanding/media blasting down to metal, throwing two coats of epoxy primer on her, guide coat, sand/bodywork, sand, three coats of high build, one coat sealer, three coats of base, five coats clear, wet sand, cut, buff, and wax.

Anything I'm missing? Do you guys wet sand in between every single coat, including primer, or do you get the body work perfect, do all primer, all color, all clear adn then sand?
I lay down two coats of epoxy, do my filler work on top and then spot epoxy prime those areas and around the edges where my long board sander took the epoxy off. I then lay on three coats of 2K primer and I will then dry block that with either a traditional block, or in some areas we use to wrap the paper around a paint paddle and block with that. Low spots will get a skimming of a 2 part (Like filler) glazing filler that is much finer than traditional "bondo" for pinholes and minor low spots. I'll then lay on 3 more coats of 2K (if you blocked the last stage properly, you only have 1 of those first 3 coats left on the car) I'll then wet sand this stage after a fog coat of black so the low spots show up. Less build up, the better off you are. The more there is, the greater the shrinkage after painting.
One of my old projects I skipped fixing a tiny spot that show up during the block sanding. And I mean tiny! I painted the car black, and you could see that "tiny" spot from across a parking lot. Looked like a golf ball hit the car.
 

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Painting Tip

I am sure that most people know this, but do not forget to do a good cleaning of all surfaces with Prepsol or similar before any painting, especially on bare metal. Many folks think that because they grind/sand down to bare metal that it is ready to paint. Most all the acrylic waxes just move ahead of the grinder/sander and when you are finished, you have bare metal with a coating of wax on it. This is the voice of experience speaking. I found this out the hard way. Using media blasting can do the same thing.
 

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I use guide coat on my mud work to check it. I usually prime about three time with three coats per priming. I'm pretty picky though and the extra you spend on primer and time spent blocking is well worth the final product. When you do your seam sealer use a little thinner on your finger to smooth it out. Lay a bead down and then run your finger over it to make it smooth looking.
 

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The caulk stuff in the drip rail area is seam sealer and needs to come off the car. Rust is common behind that stuff. I've found the best way is a wire wheel on an electric grinder.

Bare metal wipe down with metal conditioner / prep sol / epoxy primer / scuff / body work / scuff / sanding primer / sand / sanding primer again and again and again until you can't take it anymore / seam seal / final wet sand / paint
 

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I am sure that most people know this, but do not forget to do a good cleaning of all surfaces with Prepsol or similar before any painting, especially on bare metal. Many folks think that because they grind/sand down to bare metal that it is ready to paint. Most all the acrylic waxes just move ahead of the grinder/sander and when you are finished, you have bare metal with a coating of wax on it. This is the voice of experience speaking. I found this out the hard way. Using media blasting can do the same thing.
And there is the oil vapors from the airtool exhaust too. If you oil your airtools the way you are supposed to, it will put out a fine mist that goes undetected until paint is applied.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
These are awesome tips!!! Thanks alot guys.
Here's more of my plan....
Ordered new fenders, planning on painting the fenders, hood, and deck lid off the car. Prep the rest of the body, paint it, reinstall body panels.

Question about painting strips now....
I was gonna do leMans stripes on top of other color (Not deceided yet). Paint body color and strips on top or strip color, body color on top? I don't think it would make that big of difference, but looking for tips....
 

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Come on guys! Input on the strips? Noone?
Hey, I logged off for a while!! Do you want to paint strips? Or stripes? :shrug:LOL!!

My plan is for a candy apple red with white Lemans stripes. After I have the sealer on the car, I am going to paint the center of the car white and tape off the stripes, then the red. Will remove tape/paper and clean up any edges and then clear coat everything, applying a couple extra coats on the stripes so I can block sand then wet before buffing to get the non edge smooth stripe.
Now, if you are wanting a more "original" type finish, paint the car first and go back and add stripes leaving a raised edge with no clear coat.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the tips guys. This site is awesome!!!
So far, I have starting sanding the body. Lotta work to do.....
 
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