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Discussion Starter #1
Working on some tuning on my 66 289 C code. My carburetor has the number 3TNA which doesn't correspond to any carburetor in table 10-8 in the shop manual. It is a motorcraft brand. I'm needing to get the correct specs for it.

The fuel filter that threads into the carburetor is leaking a little. Will permatex high temperature thread sealant work?

Lastly, my rims need dressing up (picture attached). You will see some rust/discoloration around the edges. How do you guys make them look good.
 

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The fact that it is marked Motorcraft confirms it is not an original carb. The Motorcraft name was first used in mid 72 as I understand it.

You probably have either a 70s carb or a service replacement from the 70s.

There should be a gasket between the fuel filter and carb. It appears to be missing, although it’s hard to tell in the pic.

The wheel covers can be polished and repainted, although excellent repros are available cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The fact that it is marked Motorcraft confirms it is not an original carb. The Motorcraft name was first used in mid 72 as I understand it.

You probably have either a 70s carb or a service replacement from the 70s.

There should be a gasket between the fuel filter and carb. It appears to be missing, although it’s hard to tell in the pic.
I knew the carb wasn't original but trying to find the tuning specs for it. I'll be on the lookout for a year correct carb down the road.

I didn't see a gasket between filter and carb.The filter is threaded so I thought there would just be thread sealant.
 

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Right on, on the carb. Don't use thread tape or RTV because it can get into small carb orifices. Just git ya a new filter with the small felt gasket that has the triangular hole in it. Take yours with you because there are large and small thread filters.

Pop your wheel covers off, scuff and paint the wheels with semi-gloss black, you can polish those wheel covers and give the argent and charcoal sections a fresh spray of the right stuff from Scott Drake and National Parts Depot.
 

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Believe that the Motorcraft name was first used in 1970 on certain parts. 1971 was a big parts name transition year and Ford/Mercury/Lincoln Dealers were given to the end of 1971 (Later extended to Mid '72) to "purge" all their existing inventory of "Autolite" labeled parts due to existing Name/Trademark legal obligations. Ford actually sent Dealerships "Motorcraft" decals to literally put over any "Autolite" labeled parts boxes if certain dealers were going to keep certain "Autolite" inventory items that they could not easily get rid of. At a certain point in 1972, The name "Autolite" was legally not allowed to be shown in any Ford Dealerships. The majority of Dealerships complied...but of course as always, There were some straglers.. The Big "Autolite to Motorcraft" name changeover was first majorly pointed out to Ford/Mercury/Lincoln Dealerships in the August and September 1971 Ford Shop Tips issues.

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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Yup, He's got a replacement 70's-80s Motorcraft 2100 carb. The Original 1960's carb would have been an Autolite 2100 carb as Flade pointed out..

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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3TNA is an abbreviated part number. T as the second character stands for 'Truck.' 2100's are a forgiving bunch. Just set it up like it was the correct carb and it will more than likely run fine. That is, provided the internals match. I have seen plenty of rebuilds with mismatched parts right down to the jets being different sizes.
Your original carb would be a C6DF-A for manual or a C6DF-B for auto, no emissions for either of these, or with emissions (California) C6DF-E manual or C6DF-F auto. Original carbs can be found. I feel that some people think these are gold and are looking for that Concours buyer. I generally am still able to get cores at $15 or so. Everyone is replacing 2V's with 4V's so the 2100's desirability is quite limited.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
3TNA is an abbreviated part number. T as the second character stands for 'Truck.' 2100's are a forgiving bunch. Just set it up like it was the correct carb and it will more than likely run fine. That is, provided the internals match. I have seen plenty of rebuilds with mismatched parts right down to the jets being different sizes.
Your original carb would be a C6DF-A for manual or a C6DF-B for auto, no emissions for either of these, or with emissions (California) C6DF-E manual or C6DF-F auto. Original carbs can be found. I feel that some people think these are gold and are looking for that Concours buyer. I generally am still able to get cores at $15 or so. Everyone is replacing 2V's with 4V's so the 2100's desirability is quite limited.
Thanks for this information. What is the upside for a 4v over 2v? As just a street driver, I wouldn't think there would be any.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In looking for a more correct carburetor, I wanted to make sure that I understood the date coding. My car has a build date of 06C, meaning March 6, 1966. I have found a year correct carb of C6FD-B for $60 + shipping but needs to be gone thru. It's tag says 6CC which I think is March of '66 in the 3rd week. I believe I would need to find one that says 6B(A,B,C or D) to be correct in the build process.

Am I thinking correctly. I don't want to be a total snob about this but down the road if I want to do a total concourse then I will be that much further along. There is also the Charlotte Auto Fair coming up in October where I may run across one but prices are typically higher.
 

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In looking for a more correct carburetor, I wanted to make sure that I understood the date coding. My car has a build date of 06C, meaning March 6, 1966. I have found a year correct carb of C6FD-B for $60 + shipping but needs to be gone thru. It's tag says 6CC which I think is March of '66 in the 3rd week. I believe I would need to find one that says 6B(A,B,C or D) to be correct in the build process.

Am I thinking correctly. I don't want to be a total snob about this but down the road if I want to do a total concourse then I will be that much further along. There is also the Charlotte Auto Fair coming up in October where I may run across one but prices are typically higher.
Well, the C6FD-B would probably run better anyway. The carb you have now was emissions calibrated for 1973, and likely has a vacuum diaphragm on the top. If so, it's a 2150. As for carb with the wrongly-dated tag, you could always get a new tag.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here are a couple of pics of from the sellers post. I can probably get a few more. Does it look doable from these pics or move on to a different one?
 

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