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Discussion Starter #1

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I’m using one of these in my 66 with a/c. Made a huge difference in how cool the engine temp is in Houston traffic with the a/c running. I’ve had it installed for about 6 months and have no complaints so far. Not a daily driver but I’ve run it with a/c in stop and go traffic and the temp has yet to climb above the mid point on my gauge.
 

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With the ACP Radiators I think that the 2-Row actually cools better than the 3-Row....

This is because the cooling tubes of the 2-Row are huge.

ACP give specs on their website...and others have said the same...

With that being said, You can't go wrong with an ACP Radiator. They look and work great...

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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I just received an ACP Maxcore 2 row and the workmanship looks good. Still painting it so I don't have feedback whether it cools better than my 3 row copper.
 

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I run a Maxcore 2 row radiator in the Arizona heat and don't have any issues with it overheating. I drove through Blythe, CA last year when it was 113 degrees outside...I overheated but my car didn't. I don't have AC installed though.
 

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I run a Maxcore 2 row radiator in the Arizona heat and don't have any issues with it overheating. I drove through Blythe, CA last year when it was 113 degrees outside...I overheated but my car didn't. I don't have AC installed though.
Do you have the factory 65-66 sized Maxcore radiator or did you go larger? I just installed a factory sized Maxcore in my 64.5 and was thinking I should have went with a larger rad, but if you’re getting by with the factory size Maxcore in AZ, I’m not going to worry!
 

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What's the purpose of a 3 row, if the 2 row cools better.
A few months ago I was shopping for an ACP radiator for the 302 in my '66 and emailed them a similar question.
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Besides the lower price, any reason to go with the 3-row over the 2-row?

The most important factor these days is the total amount of surface area that can transfer heat. Our 2 rows are about 8-10% cooler than our 3 row because of the really big tubes.
Our 65-66 radiator has the exact same brackets as the OE radiator. So, you will need those four little "Z" shaped brackets/spacers for your fan shroud, just like the OE had. Stock cap will work, but you can go up to 16lbs if you wanted to.

If you are just using the car as a daily driver, the 3 row may be beneficial during "idle" times. Because the coolant will not flow as fast through the 3 rows and thus allowing the heat to dissipate a little longer.
Also, please remember that our MaxCores are thicker than OE. So, just make sure to check for overall clearance and use a fan spacer if you need to. V8s should have plenty of room. The 6 cylinders are very tight.
 

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I just realized there's an ACP radiator and also an ECP radiator. I run the ECP and its a real nice piece, also with a more oem looking stamped tank than most of the aftermarket aluminum radiators.
 

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the 3 row may be beneficial during "idle" times. Because the coolant will not flow as fast through the 3 rows and thus allowing the heat to dissipate a little longer.
Also, please remember that our MaxCores are thicker than OE. So, just make sure to check for overall clearance and use a fan spacer if you need to.
This is kind of the opposite of what happens. Three row aluminum radiators have a ton of surface area, but because they are so thick, at idle, air has a hard time getting through. Additionally, air temps heat up as it passes by the first two rows, making it less effective as it cools the third row. Out on the road, the high air pressure as you're driving tends to force more through. But at a standstill, most cooling fans and shrouds have a harder time getting enough airflow. This can make some cars run hotter than normal.

He's right about clearances though.

Generally, it's a better idea to run 3 core brass, or 2 core aluminum radiators. (I'm sure you already know that the aluminum cores are much wider than the brass ones) If you need more cooling, go to a larger version than stock. The 20" versions usually work pretty well, but with greatly increased power and air conditioning involved, the 24" big-block radiators are sometimes better.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Personally I would look at other possible causes of over heating first. Your Northern has the larger tubes and I haven't seen any negative feed back on them. Just wondering, where you having over heat issues that prompted buying an aluminum rad initially?
Car originally did not have A/C and did not overheat. The stock radiator couldn't handle it - we knew this going in. We tried an aftermarkett 3 row - which was worse than the original radiator - poor construction - you could see the blocked tubes. I then went straight to the northern. I personally think it has to do with the stock shroud being terrible and using a clutch fan. I don't want to take this apart again. I despise removing the fan. I figured, now is a good time to do a final radiator upgrade. Everything has been replaced and flushed, water pump, thermostat, hoses(including the spring in the lower) Full engine flush including the little metal plugs in the block. Unless I get a new engine, there is no other factor besides the fan shroud and the radiator.. besides perhaps the condenser...but i can't imagine that causing the issue.
 

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...besides perhaps the condenser...but i can't imagine that causing the issue.
Unless air isn't flowing cleanly through condenser due to dirt, bugs, parts of bugs, etc.
 

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We just did hot rods power tour with my 420hp 331 in a '65 with A/C. I have an ACP 3 row. I do have a fabricated shroud and SPAL fan. Not once did the cars temp gauge move from the middle position (confirmed with the sniper EFI handheld) even on the 30 degree day idling up the hill into the kentucky speedway, with the A/C on..
 

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"What's the purpose of a 3 row, if the 2 row cools better. "

With most Radiators, The 3-Row will always cool better than the 2-row... The ACP Maxcore may be the lone exception to that rule...because their 2-Row has such big cooling tubes.

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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This is kind of the opposite of what happens. Three row aluminum radiators have a ton of surface area, but because they are so thick, at idle, air has a hard time getting through. Additionally, air temps heat up as it passes by the first two rows, making it less effective as it cools the third row. Out on the road, the high air pressure as you're driving tends to force more through. But at a standstill, most cooling fans and shrouds have a harder time getting enough airflow. This can make some cars run hotter than normal.

He's right about clearances though.

Generally, it's a better idea to run 3 core brass, or 2 core aluminum radiators. (I'm sure you already know that the aluminum cores are much wider than the brass ones) If you need more cooling, go to a larger version than stock. The 20" versions usually work pretty well, but with greatly increased power and air conditioning involved, the 24" big-block radiators are sometimes better.
Is that right? I'm having a hell of a time trying to keep the 428 in the '68 to stay cool at idle with my ACP 3 core radiator. Temps drop as soon as I start moving or get the RPM's up (pulling more air with the fan). Besides that, it's a wonderfully built radiator!

Sorry, don't mean to hijack ;).
 

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I wondered if some cars would benefit from an overdriven (undersize) fan pulley to spin the fan faster. Could be subtle and compact...
 

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You have a fan clutch and a shroud with that 428....Right?!?? If you don't, Then you know where to start with your problem.. ;)

:eek:)

Tony K.
 
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