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What is my best option for plumbing a oil pressure sensor and keep my idiot light connection? I am not impressed with the cost of the Scott Drake extension that has two ports @ $31.99. Is there something generic that will work from a auto parts store or a hardware store ( brass T fitting)? My current sending unit screws straight into the block.
 

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I've got mine on some brass T-fitting I picked up at Lowes. Just take the old one with you when you go so you can match the threads.

You're probably going to need some kind of longer piece to clear your fuel pump and all (not a problem on my 200) but you should be able to fit something together pretty easily.
 

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Order the Scott Drake piece, by the time you cobble together the correct brass fittings you're gonna have half the money and twice the time to have an extension that's cobbled together.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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https://www.grainger.com/category/brass-pipe-fittings/pipe-fittings/pipe-tubing-and-fittings/plumbing/ecatalog/N-qu2?okey=brass+tee+1/4&mkey=brass+tee+1/4&refineSearchString=brass+tee+1/4&NLSCM=17&EndecaKeyword=brass+tee+1/4&searchBar=true&searchRedirect=brass+tee+1/4&sst=subset

Try that page, it's called a street tee or pipe tee. It's about the fifth fitting down, it's shorter than the Drake piece but they're under ten bucks. My local ACE carried them at one point, so did OSH but they are on the way out.....
 

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When I researched this, I read multiple references referring to taking the commonly available long extension and drilling and tapping your own hole in it. I figured that's what I would try first.


You might be able to find those street T brass type fittings at a decent size Napa auto parts too. I am pretty sure my local one would have them.
 

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The Drake part looks like a good reproduction of the difficult to find factory one that can (sometimes) found on '80's-'90's Super Duty 5.8 and 7.5's. Did I mention they are hard to find? Not hard to expend more than $30 worth of gas and time trying to ferret one out.

I think if you buy a stock extension and then the NPT tap to help make the second hole you might be over that $30.

In my opinion every other extension solution looks rather gawky and a bit Rube Goldbergian. I'd just spend the money. Unless you have browsing privileges at a junkyard or two and actually LIKE grubbing around in salvage yards hunting for those sorts of things. (Like me.)
 

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NAPA has a steel one. Get one for a ‘66 because it’s longer. Then get a brass Y fitting so both sending units can thread in and you’ll be good to go.
 

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How do u take a reading? Do you have a gauge/dial under the dash? I'm looking into getting one for my 65 but not sure re. discreet placement.

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- Agree; by the time you cobble something together from Ace Hardware or a big box store, you're at or near $30.00 with a lot of extra hassle. (I know because I did just that for my 351 Cleveland.)

- Mechanical gauges are accurate and reliable, but they do require hard lines running from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment which is a lot of extra work/hassle.

- Running a nylon line for a mechanical oil pressure gauge sounds dicey. However, I have been using them for decades and never had an issue. I insert the nylon line through a piece of vacuum hose when going through the firewall. Copper line sounds more durable, but copper can become brittle and break. If you're worried about durability for a mechanical oil gauge line, go with a braided stainless line.

- Electric gauges are much easier to install; they require only wires. Most have a very small sweep, which can be hard to read and less accurate. Wide sweep electric gauges are available, but they are much more expensive. (Personally, I think they are worth it.)

Whatever you decide, it's an EXTREMELY GOOD IDEA to install quality, aftermarket gauges on your Mustang. The factory gauges can be helpful to determine if something is nominal, or if there's an anomaly, but not much else. Aftermarket gauges will tell you the actual oil pressure, the actual coolant temperature, the actual fuel pressure, etc.
 

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consider a gauge like autometer's electronic, pro-control gauge that has a control output with a setpoint you control. use that control output to enable the lamp in your dash when active. then you only need one small sensor in your block (may not even need the extension).

https://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1331.pdf
Hey, that's really cool. I was not familiar with that concept. Thanks for sharing.
 

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FYI, as the proponent of metal ( copper) line, mine has been in service for 15+ years. No signs of impending failure. This being stated, we'll see come this 2019 cruise season.... LOL!
 

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I used the Autometer (water,oil and voltage) and a copper line - needed the extension off the block -works like a charm - good luck!
 

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Just keep in mind that the gauge light sending unit and block threads are larger than the typical hook up for an oil pressure gauge. Some mechanical gauge kits will throw in a few fitting adapters though. I just remembered this yesterday because I'm trying to do the same thing. I want to keep my 65 standard oil light and just run an oil pressure gauge under the hood preferably on the aluminium sending unit extension so I can check on it. I'm under the hood of the thing so often that I don't see a need to install the oil pressure gauge in or under the dash.


I don't have my gauge in front of me so I'm not sure what the 2 different thread sizes are.
 

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Drug my gauge/sending unit gadget thing out for a photo so you can see it. The gauge is a mechanical Summit racing gauge. I drilled and tapped the sending unit extension. My sending unit got a bit mangled because that loctite they put on there STICKS. I had to vice grip it off so I could put it on the extension. If I was still running a mechanical fuel pump I would have to have run a short line and put the gauge somewhere else.


 

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Ok, this is the pic I was searching to add earlier.... I used the existing threaded end and added a "T" for my OEM sender. I have a copper line enclosed by the wrap shown leading up to my gauge(s) mounted on my inner apron.
 

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Ok, this is the pic I was searching to add earlier.... I used the existing threaded end and added a "T" for my OEM sender. I have a copper line enclosed by the wrap shown leading up to my gauge(s) mounted on my inner apron.

Nice clean install. I like the gauges under the hood thing just for a back up check on things. I probably need a temp gauge under my hood too which starts to look like a gauge cluster in my future somewhere like what you did. I already have 2 temp senders. One is for the instrument panel and the other drives the electric fan.
 
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