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Discussion Starter #1
Need some assist.

I want to add PS to my 65 289/C4/AC coupe. Im not interested in EPAS or Borgson.

Chocko has everything for the bottom end, but Im having a hard time figuring out what I need for the pump and bracket.

My car is an early Dearborn 65, 15 Aug build date.

My AC bracket is C5AA-2882-(C or G) cant tell which.

Since I have AC is there a specific PS bracket?

Do I need a 3 groove crank pulley?

Does the PS have an idler like the AC?

I asked on the Concourse forums but didnt get a lot of help.

Someone here must have a 65 with factory AC and PS.
 

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The bracket for my 289 with and the bracket for my other 289 without look the same to me...you will need the 3 groove pulley...power steering doesn't have an idler...your power steering pump us what will be specific, specifically the reservoir housing, it has to have the slanted neck to angle behind the AC compressor. I saw a donor bracket and pump on Atlanta area Craigslist just a couple days ago. They're out there ! Good luck !
 

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Choc should be able to help you out with all that. You really need PS? The last manual steer Mustang I drove was a 65 C code coupe. I couldn’t believe how easy it steered. Even low speed. There is a art to driving manual steering. Always have the car moving when parking. Even if it’s barely moving. It helps a lot. Next, whatcha your tire pressure. A properly inflated tires are much easier to steer!
 

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I like the feel of quick ratio manual steering, so all of my factory correct power steering stuff is in a box. I admit I have thought about adding it to my car after buying and driving a second 66 that has it. It is so smooth and effortless, it does have appeal from 1) getting older 2) had a shoulder surgery 15 years ago and may need another and 3) it options-up my car. I still like the manual in the meantime.
 

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The last manual steer Mustang I drove was a 65 C code coupe. I couldn’t believe how easy it steered. low
With a 19:1 box. 5+ turns lock to lock! Go from your daily driver to the manual 19:1 box and see how scary the first corner you take will be!

Dan did a nice job on my 16:1 box and PS stuff, but even with the quick arms I still want it quicker!

I believe the OP will also need a dual sheave water pump pulley on a 65 to go with the triple crank pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Doing some reading.

Is this a bigger job than I realize?

I will need a 3 groove crank pulley and 2 groove WP pulley.

Currently the 2nd crank pulley groove is for the AC. When I add PS, the AC belt moves to the 3rd pulley. How is that possible when the AC pulley and idler do not move?

Am I going to have to round up a bunch of spacers and longer bolts and start shimming all the brackets trying to get the belts to line up?

Its confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ordered a 1965 Ford Products Engine Equipment Assembly Manual. Should be here on the 15th.

Once I figure out the engine side of it, I will buy the lower parts from Chocko.
 

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Nah the geometry of the pulley works. It's not just like adding another groove out front. Don't worry. It'll all come together.
 

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Need some assist.

I want to add PS to my 65 289/C4/AC coupe. Im not interested in EPAS or Borgson.

Chocko has everything for the bottom end, but Im having a hard time figuring out what I need for the pump and bracket.

My car is an early Dearborn 65, 15 Aug build date.

My AC bracket is C5AA-2882-(C or G) cant tell which.

Since I have AC is there a specific PS bracket?

Do I need a 3 groove crank pulley?

Does the PS have an idler like the AC?

I asked on the Concourse forums but didnt get a lot of help.

Someone here must have a 65 with factory AC and PS.
So indeed the answers are there.

Air cars had a slanted neck, big tube pump. The mounting bracket is a one piece steel. Pump pulley is AA.
The 67 version (C7AA aluminum cradle with flat steel support) will also bolt in perfectly on the 289 to bolt on the thin slanted neck pump.
3 groove crank
single groove water pump on 64-66-----67 was 2 groove water pump. Ford decided to eliminate the belt bounce to run belt over water pump pulley. This helped in overtightening the belt (pump bushing wear problem)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did early Dearborn cars have an Eaton pump? If so, when did Thompson pumps replace the Eaton?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Im hoping this doesnt drag out all summer.

The bottom end is easy.

Its tracking down the engine side that is the challenge.

I would just forget about PS and try a roller idler, except no one has ever posted if its worth the difference of the $200 price tag.
 

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Im hoping this doesnt drag out all summer.

The bottom end is easy.

Its tracking down the engine side that is the challenge.

I would just forget about PS and try a roller idler, except no one has ever posted if its worth the difference of the $200 price tag.
Gee, I hope the help on VMF isn't pooping on your "party."

I've covered the merits of roller & solid bushing idler arms a few times on the forum.
You aren't going to get a ton of decreased steering effort going to an upgraded idler. You'll notice the
difference but it sure isn't like adding power steering. Most of the improvement on a 65/66 is in getting
rid of that asinine amount of rubber in that bushing..... the deflection of which adds a ton of play or
vagueness to the steering, particularly if you have shorter than stock sidewall tires.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No poop here.

Its difficult to find the correct parts when attempting to keep it original-ish.
 

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Did early Dearborn cars have an Eaton pump? If so, when did Thompson pumps replace the Eaton?
The switch from the Eaton to the Thompson PS pump happened when Ford went from the 5 bolt to the 6 bolt 289 block. My 64.5 D Code Coupe had the Eaton Pump but no AC.

If you don't already have them you'll need a couple of crush nuts to mount the ram bracket to the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have the correct PS pump bracket, 3 groove crank pulley, 2 groove WP pulley, AA PS pump pulley.

I bought the engine assembly manual only to discover the AC and PS is described in the chassis assembly manual, and that manual is on backorder until who knows when.

Now I need to decide on which year pump to use 65/66 or 67/68.

Then I need to decide on factory setup or Borgeson setup.

In the meantime, I keep eyeballing the 235hp crate engine from Summit for $3300. I figure my stock 289 puts out 125ish to the wheels right now.
 

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Go factory...I have a Borgeson on one car, and although the steering is tight, the effort is greater than the stock setup. Here is my ‘66 engine with factory AC and PS. Use the large neck pump with angled filler. Still use the AC idler pulley. The PS belt goes over the second sheave if the water pump/fan pulley where the double alt. belt would go for AC only. The Bob Mannel book is very helpful for knowing how to route things, but you'll figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the pic.

Everyone is telling me that this will fall into place.

Im skeptical.

Your AC clutch/pulley is different than mine. Your clutch is much deeper than mine. My AC belt is currently on the 2nd pulley and it moves to the third pulley.

I dont think everything is going to line up.

Im working on the 67 this weekend, so it will be next weekend before I get around to this project.
 

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Hmmm...is your compressor the factory York unit with all the original brackets? If so, its belt should be on the outer of the three pulleys. If memory serves. Non PS cars still had the same crank and fan pulleys as with PS, but a double alternator belt was used on the middle groove, and a double sheave pulley was put on the alternator. With PS, the single alt pulley is there on the groove closest to the engine, then the PS belt, then the AC. I have a few shots under the hood too. If you use the brackets and parts that were engineered for this purpose, it willl line up right. The trouble comes when we mix and match...sadly, not all years equipment is interchangeable.
 

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