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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Friends

I have that 6 foot 1 tall inch body. I'm currently moving the seat back but I also wonder how difficult it would be to adjust the Brake pedal height on my all stock 1966 single can master cylinder automatic.

Is it even possible. Or will i have to buy a new rod or parts?
 

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I'm 6' 2" and fit in mine okay with the standard seat all the way back. Been driving it that way going on 30 years. We're all different. Maybe my legs are shorter ! !
There are adjustable master cylinder push rods available. Try National Parts Depot. They have a west coast w aww warehouse that can fix you up in a hurry and the owner is on here as @69bossnine, or Chockostang is a very good source for all things brake and steering and very active on here as @CHOCK and both are very knowledgeable.
 
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Just remember that if you use a shorter pushrod or alter the arm at all to move things closer to the floor that your overall travel will be that much shorter and, possibly, won't give you enough movement to properly stop the car.
 

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I lowered mine an inch, I make my own shafts out of a bolt. Put it in a drill and use a bench grinder to fashion the mushroom head, then finish the surface. Just make sure you convince yrself you can take an inch out of the stroke and still are way off the floor. I would replace the one shot master with a dual bowl while doing this, they all have different heights. Your loved ones deserve it!

Smaller dia wheel helps also
 

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If you shorten the pushrod to lower the pedal make absolutely sure that you have the clip that locks the pushrod into the MC piston or you alter the pedal return stop so that the pedal cannot come far enough back to allow the pushrod to fall out of the piston. You will certainly stain your shorts if you suddenly find the brake pedal goes straight to the firewall when you step on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Just remember that if you use a shorter pushrod or alter the arm at all to move things closer to the floor that your overall travel will be that much shorter and, possibly, won't give you enough movement to properly stop the car.
Yes, Yes.
I still have to figure out this rear push rod equation. When a master is properly installed, all air is out of system, all brake components (drums to shoes-Pads to rotors) are installed correct, the master piston will only travel a very short distance, very little travel.
If someone has great pedal travel, a shorter push rod will not decrease the master cylinder piston travel??? Can't get this figured out.

Someone needs to explain how this happens. I's appreciate it.
 

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1965 C-code Coupe, Silver Metallic Blue, 3-speed toploader, 3.00 rear
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Thnanks Ophthos

I know of this design. 100 bucks for two pieces of metal bar is quite the turn off. I may fab something myself. Thanks for the link !
Fab it! :) Just made an adjustable rod myself due to a saggy pedal from a master cylinder swap (and the wife has short legs).

Just need an SAE tap and die set, 3/8" fine thread coupler nut (or course if you can't find it but fine is better), and a jam nut (I just used two nuts).

Cut here:



Since you want to lower the pedal instead of raise it like I needed to, you can remove a small section from the rod. Just leave space for creating new threads for your coupler.

Run the 3/8" 20 die down the rod on both ends like this:



My stock rod length:



I extended by about 3/8" to take up the slack; if you cut a little more out of the center section you can shorten the rod and return to stock length if you need to at some point by rotating the coupling nut.

Extend the bumper for the pedal though to keep the shorter rod from bouncing out if you don't have the clip.
 
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