Adjustable strut rods 65-66 - the final chapter
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Johnny,
Can you explain why they won't work...? Maybe I can help...
Additionally, what is precluding you from getting '65-66 struts...
Unfortunately, the race car already had trailing arms on it when I bought it (for the R/P steering clearance) or else I'd gladly send you mine...I still have most of the other stock suspension stuff from the race car stashed in the rafters or in the shed at mom's...
Get back with some more details about what you're doing...
BTW, did I miss your track report??? *G*
Can you explain why they won't work...? Maybe I can help...
Additionally, what is precluding you from getting '65-66 struts...
Unfortunately, the race car already had trailing arms on it when I bought it (for the R/P steering clearance) or else I'd gladly send you mine...I still have most of the other stock suspension stuff from the race car stashed in the rafters or in the shed at mom's...
Get back with some more details about what you're doing...
BTW, did I miss your track report??? *G*
I have the 65 strut rods. What I need is more caster than -1.2 degrees so I've been looking for solutions. I already have my control arms lowered so that won't help. Theres already too many shims in there to try and get the caster to come forward any more. I just refuse to pay $300 or so for the Nasa space struts on general principle.
The 67's have a longer span between the control arm bolt points and the back adjusting nut. It looks like they moved the frame mounting point forward a little or the frame rail is a little longer? Something is longer. When I put the strut rod on with the back nut cranked all the way back it still goes through the frame hole where the bushing sits. Its just too long.
My car ran a 12.61 in hot and humid weather. The good weather factor was around .15 sec et for cars running in the mid to low 12's like mine. That looks pretty good. It is running really great now. My salad bowl with was a 12.61 to 62 and without it was a 12.64 to 65. Its doing something good. I have pics that need to be developed of how it looks. I think what its doing is just smoothing out the air going into the primaries. I still have a choke horn getting in the way. I lost in the dial in race. I ran a 12.613 on a 12.60(.013 off) and the winner ran dead on to the ten thousandths(GOOD GRIEF). It was still fun.
The 67's have a longer span between the control arm bolt points and the back adjusting nut. It looks like they moved the frame mounting point forward a little or the frame rail is a little longer? Something is longer. When I put the strut rod on with the back nut cranked all the way back it still goes through the frame hole where the bushing sits. Its just too long.
My car ran a 12.61 in hot and humid weather. The good weather factor was around .15 sec et for cars running in the mid to low 12's like mine. That looks pretty good. It is running really great now. My salad bowl with was a 12.61 to 62 and without it was a 12.64 to 65. Its doing something good. I have pics that need to be developed of how it looks. I think what its doing is just smoothing out the air going into the primaries. I still have a choke horn getting in the way. I lost in the dial in race. I ran a 12.613 on a 12.60(.013 off) and the winner ran dead on to the ten thousandths(GOOD GRIEF). It was still fun.
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10,587 Posts
Glad everything went well at the track...you were right on your dial, no apologies necessary. It was just a nail-biter...I've been in my fair share of those. Who's going to lift first in the lights..hehehe
Struts....how much more thread do you need? Too bad you don't have a lathe in the garage...turn the 5/8" strut material down to 9/16" back the requisite amount (you'd remove the little shoulder but could easily make a locator washer), continue the 9/16" 18 threads back with a die (easier than matching the threads on the lathe) and then stick it all together. IIRC, those struts aren't that hard, temper-wise..
If the slight bend where the strut bolts to the arm wouldn't fit in the headstock bore, you could always reverse it, chucking on the threads, and steady rest the round part before the bend...simple, eh?? *G*
That's why they pay me the big bucks...hehehe
I just shortened and keyed a hardened transmission shaft for a local tractor puller Friday...it'll be interesting to see how my emergency ingenuity played out this weekend....it's always something...
Struts....how much more thread do you need? Too bad you don't have a lathe in the garage...turn the 5/8" strut material down to 9/16" back the requisite amount (you'd remove the little shoulder but could easily make a locator washer), continue the 9/16" 18 threads back with a die (easier than matching the threads on the lathe) and then stick it all together. IIRC, those struts aren't that hard, temper-wise..
If the slight bend where the strut bolts to the arm wouldn't fit in the headstock bore, you could always reverse it, chucking on the threads, and steady rest the round part before the bend...simple, eh?? *G*
That's why they pay me the big bucks...hehehe
I just shortened and keyed a hardened transmission shaft for a local tractor puller Friday...it'll be interesting to see how my emergency ingenuity played out this weekend....it's always something...
Sly dog!! I KNEW you were a suspension man, ready with a quick draw of the lathe!! Insurance issues my eye, I'll be looking you up my first trip in the RussStang to Cali!! Now, where'd I put those drawings of my homemade LCAs??
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10,587 Posts
Try http://www.deltabaymustang.com for adjustable rods for the 65-66 I believe there's are cheaper than most places. $180 range I think.
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