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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
68 Mustang. I’m replacing my leaky P/S control valve with a good one that shouldn’t leak. New obtained from our friends at ChockoStang!

Old valve was only installed by PO in the last year or two but it won’t budge so shouldn’t be rusted on. I’m working at home this time so no air/power impact tools unfortunately.

Tried the fork and hammering moderately. Don’t want to wham the Pittman too hard with hammer and damage the steering box. All line connections, Castle nut came clear.

Do I need to take the big nut off at the steering box side first? Do I need to pull apart any of the tie rod or idler ends so it’ll be have room to pop down?

I have a great penetrating oil. Letting it soak overnight.
 

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I did it like your picture shows, with the pickle fork. That pulled the ball out of the power steering, not the stud out of the pitman. I then used my pitman arm puller to pull the pitman arm and then rig something up to do the same with the pitman arm and the stuck ball stud with it in my vice. If I had the wrap around style pitman arm puller, I probably could have used that on the power side and avoided the whole mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did it like your picture shows, with the pickle fork. That pulled the ball out of the power steering, not the stud out of the pitman. I then used my pitman arm puller to pull the pitman arm and then rig something up to do the same with the pitman arm and the stuck ball stud with it in my vice. If I had the wrap around style pitman arm puller, I probably could have used that on the power side and avoided the whole mess.
So you’re saying there’s a big chance the ball will rip out of the old control valve and stay stuck?

Is the standard pinch type Pittman arm puller for the P/S valve side separation or the Pittman to steering box side once you remove that huge nut?
I’ll see if Harbor Freight has the wrap around type puller!

I have a 3 prong sprocket/bearing puller with the screw in middle. I think it just might barely fit but I’ve read those shouldn’t be used.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What about just cutting it off both sides with a Dremel? Then drilling out punching out the remaining center piece? Don’t care about the old valve.
 

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Have you tried wedging the fork in place until it’s tight, then using a hammer, strike the side of the pitman arm. With the added tension, it should shock the shaft loose and out of the pitman arm. You might need to hit it pretty hard, so watch that you don’t graze your knuckles on the chassis- and wear gloves!;)
 

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So you’re saying there’s a big chance the ball will rip out of the old control valve and stay stuck?

Is the standard pinch type Pittman arm puller for the P/S valve side separation or the Pittman to steering box side once you remove that huge nut?
I’ll see if Harbor Freight has the wrap around type puller!

I have a 3 prong sprocket/bearing puller with the screw in middle. I think it just might barely fit but I’ve read those shouldn’t be used.
I don't know the odds, but the CJ video on doing this job showed his stud pulling out of the ball joint too. I used the fork like you did and some convincing from my 48oz kinetic persuasion tool. If you don't care about saving the old one, you would be done by now :)

I have the HF puller (Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller) and since it is not adjustable, it will only work on the large side unless you can get creative and are careful. I imagine Bart will be along shortly to share the link of the right tool. I personally would not be cutting and drilling anything. I have taken off several pitman arms so far, and they always let loose without resorting to cutting. I also don't have a good heat source, but I am sure those that do would suggest that. The thing just fits on there really tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't know the odds, but the CJ video on doing this job showed his stud pulling out of the ball joint too. I used the fork like you did and some convincing from my 48oz kinetic persuasion tool. If you don't care about saving the old one, you would be done by now :)

I have the HF puller (Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller) and since it is not adjustable, it will only work on the large side unless you can get creative and are careful. I imagine Bart will be along shortly to share the link of the right tool. I personally would not be cutting and drilling anything. I have taken off several pitman arms so far, and they always let loose without resorting to cutting. I also don't have a good heat source, but I am sure those that do would suggest that. The thing just fits on there really tight.
Unfortunately I have no electric impact or otherwise. Just my good hands and tools! I talked to Chock this morning over email and he told me the pickle for wasn't going to damage the steering box or pittman from some spirited hammering and a few other manual labor tips. Plus it's been soaking all night with the miracle oil CRC "Ultra Screwloose". I'll give it another go. But no...don't give a rat about the valve that is on there. It's new junk put on my the prev owner less than 2 years ago. So prob no rust bonding. I think in the past year I've driven the car in rain twice.

CJ video like all of them everything just pops right apart with a pickel fork just like the one I have. Of course they edited out the part where he probably whaled on it 90 times and gave it pet names that aren't repeatable in any forum :p

I'll cut it only as a last resort. But I'm pretty good with Dremel and keeping a steady hand...so it's tempting!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I use This a with success. Makes a loud bang when it brakes the joint loose so be prepared.
That looks nice! I just might stop over at Harbor Freight this afternoon. But trying not to add another one-time tool to the existing pile. Thing about this pittman-arm-vale is that it's facing upwards. I have a 3-prong puller, but it's too big to rotate the locking collar around much even if I can get it around the knuckle. If I could invert it under the car it would be easy.
 

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Unfortunately I have no electric impact or otherwise. Just my good hands and tools!
I recently bought a Dewalt cordless power impact wrench when I needed to replace the pulley on my alternator as there is no way to produce enough torque to do it with hand tools. It is now my favorite tool and never gets put away. I need to be judicious about not using it in places where I shouldn't, like putting things together, because its tempting. It will also strip the threads off a bolt if I just set it loose.

Without one of those, I hope you at least have a breaker bar with some length on it to get some leverage. I would be a little concerned about how well the car is supported having to apply that much manual pull while under it.
 

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Well, lesse. The pickle fork is just about guaranteed to destroy your old valve. If writing off a big core charge doesn't bother you, go for it.

It's not a matter of rust, the pin has a 7° taper. It's just tight.

You can get the correct tool from Harbor Freight for $16, which should be about 1/10 the cost of throwing your old valve in the trash.

 

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That's the tool I have, and it is too wide for the lower end of the pitman arm unless you can get just enough lip on one side and some leverage. Kinda iffy, particularly without power tools to avoid side motion. Works fine for the upper side which is a lot wider. I just did this 2 weeks ago.
 

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Maybe. Then use this one, also $16. But never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, never, use a pickle fork. I had many a hard phone call to tell someone he'd destroyed his $200 core and would not be getting a refund.

 

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^ What he said...... times a thousand.
The second tool pictured is the correct item. If you can't afford it, you shouldn't be messing with it.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good news! It’s off ??? Thanks for so much for the help and thanks to this 20 year neglected pickle fork from my early 20s of automotive glory ?

Some good blows but nothing inhumanly strong was done to it. Trust me I’m in good shape but brute strength isn’t one of our main attributes.

Did double the CRC breaking fluid and heated it up with a propane torch. But it couldn’t get that hot as the grease kept threatening to burst aflame.

Car is very well supported trust me. I had those techniques literally sweatshopped into me by mean old men at Chevrolet and Cadillac shops in my youth ?

Not worried about the core. I bought a new one outright. They only wants it if it’s a good one and it’s probably only the valve body is worth anything. Anyhow core is 30 some at most for the one I’ve got.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oh man lesson to pass down to this thread for future readers. Wish I’d thought of this before. To separate the new/good valve and ball stud after I torqued so that I could pull it off and readjust....used a long 2x4 wood plank and hit it with a sledge. Has great contact on the stud where the castle nut went and probably would have worked on the first one even better than the pickle fork! Won’t tear up the boot either. You could also put the castle stud on to increase the contact area for a stubborn one. Use lots of penetrating oil ??? if it’s old and rusty.
 

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