Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can you share your advice if you have done this. How di Shelby do this in 1965? I have a '66 fastback. Are there any articles someone has that covers this? How about cable size and length? Or routing the cable from the door sill to the starter relay. Also, do I need to install an extra grounding cable from the engine compartment to the block if I ground the negative cable in the trunk?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,589 Posts
I did it in my '67. You can buy a kit from Jegs, Summit, or some of the Mustang vendors. Comes with box, cables and brackets. Not hard at all.

I routed the cable through the cab, under the carpet and door sill.

For Grounding, I have the Alt Negative to the block, the block cabled to the firewall, and the battery Neg bolted to the body on the tow hook spring under the trunk.

Your car should have a cable from the block to the firewall already. I just got a much thicker than stock one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,838 Posts
I'm doing the same thing in my 67. I'm going to use one of the kits for teh cables and hardware. For the mounting plate I'm using the stock battery tray with brace from the front and turning it around and mounting it to the top of the frame rail with the brace attaching to the trunk drop off. It looks factory!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,926 Posts
I used No. 2 welding cable for all of my cable needs, when installing the battery in the trunk. Like others, I used the factory mounting tray, but cut off all of the mounting supports for the tray so it would lay flat in the trunk. At first, I grounded the battery only to a trunk lid hinge mounting bolt. The car would not start unless I also used a jumper cable hanging out of the trunk which clipped onto the exhaust tip!!! dumb. I ran a second ground wire directly to the block and the problem went away. Running the postive cable to the front provides the ability to wire in a battery shut off switch under the fender. You can than use the lugs on the switch as 12v power source for such things as stereo and electric fan.

good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
Is anyone concerned about outgassing of the battery in a fastback? Do you use the inexpensive plastic box or use the sealed unit with the air tube?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,970 Posts
Is anyone concerned about outgassing of the battery in a fastback? Do you use the inexpensive plastic box or use the sealed unit with the air tube?
That is why it is best to use a dry cell battery like the Optima or Exide Orbital .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,030 Posts
Since you live about 30 minutes from RT 66 Dragway, the NHRA is going to want you to have a shut off switch mounted on the rear of the car, and, it better also kill the engine when turned to off.
Summits platic battery box can be equipped with a vent tube to the outside, go down though a plastic plug below the trunk drop off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,838 Posts
I was going to use a sealed vented battery like the ones they make for interior mounting like the ones that go in the trunk of a BMW vert. I'm not worried about it being noxious, but I am worried about corrosion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
I like the 2 gauge wire. Used it in three cars. I buy about 25 ft of it at a weld supply store, a battery box for $12 at Auto zone or similar, and terminals. It costs about $60. Cheaper than the Summit kit.

The most recent relocation I did was an emergency radiator swap that took up too much space. I found a set of jumper cables in the auto parts store, 4 gauge wires. I cut the clamps off and added terminals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,979 Posts
If you're buying bulk cable, buy 2 feet more than you measured for. Trust me. :wall:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
I have 2 pages that someone sent me, they are from the original ford or shelby instructions how to mount a battery in the trunk. Send me your E-mail and I send the pages over to you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I did this on my '69 CJ years ago. Used an Optima battery (lighter and safer) inside Moroso battery box (mounted creatively using existing trunk holes and framework). I also relocated the starter solenoid to the trunk (mounted on side of battery box, inside pvc electrical box) so that I wouldn't have a hot battery cable running the length of the car, although I sheathed it completely in 3/4" ID rubber hose for good measure. :paranoid:
Car starts fine with battery ground run to frame directly under batter (used lag bolt through bottom of box for electrical and physical connection). I've been meaning to document this w/pics, maybe this will motivate me to do just that, but probably not. ::
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
I put an Opitma battery in the trunk of my 1993 5.0L. I purchased a battery cable kit from Taylor. If you are considering racing your car at an NHRA sanctioned track, get a copy of the NHRA rules book. The battery must be securely mounted in the trunk, preferably to or around the frame. If using j-hooks to secure the battery, the ends must be welded closed. Also, a sealed and externally vented battery box must be used. No marine type boxes here. You also must have a clearly marked external shut off switch out the back of the car. Some tracks will have you run the car and if the switch is turned or pushed into the "Off" position and your car does not shut off, you fail the test. Anyway, there is more. If you plan on racing the car, get the NRHA rules book.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
Anybody got pics of their box install?
I am wanting to mount mine over the right frame rail.
The Taylor aluminum box is so big that getting the battery out of it after an install will likely require taking out the whole box. Plus, the top of the frame here is so unlevel that I'm sure sinching down the battery will completely distort the bottom of the box. I suppose I could cut different size rubber grommets under the box to level it, but the previously mentioned issue makes me less inclined to work this issue.
I have a Summit plastic box, which is alot smaller, but the hold-down bracket that came with it actually doesn't even fit inside the box (???).
I like alot of the ideas presented in this thread, but does anybody have any pics?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Trunk/

Pics of my trunk battery install. I too had the problem if not enough space. I had to modify the box so I could unbolt it and remove it to remove the battery. Also, I raised the trunk floor and leveled it to mouth the box towards the middle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
JamesW said:
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Trunk/

Pics of my trunk battery install. I too had the problem if not enough space. I had to modify the box so I could unbolt it and remove it to remove the battery. Also, I raised the trunk floor and leveled it to mouth the box towards the middle.
Thanks James, I've actually studied alot of your buildup on your webpage.
I understand now why you put your battery box over the gas tank....there's just not much room over the frame rail.
Anybody else got pics?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
in our '66 i mounted a repro autolite battery on to a '67 tray & hold down ,cutting off the lower support leg ,then ran #2 red pos. cable into the rear qt., under the door sill plate ,behind the kick panel ,over the inner wheel well spash shell, through a hole behind the hood hinge.
The neg. i pig tailed then bolted it to the rear bumber bolt.
jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,661 Posts
These pics aren't the greatest, but all i have right now. I used the stock battery tray and just broke off the angled support bracket (only two spot welds). Also used the stock hold downs and relocated the solenoid to the trunk support brace. These were taken before i cleaned up the wiring job, but you get the idea. With a sealed type battery like the Optima, you don't have to run a sealed box with a vent to the outside.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/files/attachments/1159847329-IMG_0283a.JPG

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/files/attachments/1159847364-IMG_0281a.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
Wow thanks guys for the pics/ideas.
Here's where I'm headed with this now.
The reason the Taylor box limited the battery removal was because I had it positioned pretty far forward to get it off the angled bumper reinforcement. To address this, and the non-level frame rail, I notched a piece of 3/4" plywood to straddle the reinforcement. This works out well for a flat surface that's far enough back that I can get the battery out of the box. I'm not through, but this will give some idea:
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1397/2135/105387.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1397/2135/105386.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1397/2135/105385.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1397/2135/105384.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/1397/2135/105383.jpg
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top