Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I got my new edelbrock performer cam today... (hydro lifters) the engine is out and it will probably stay out for another month or so.. i'm reading the directions and everything seems ok.. is there anything you guys would tell me to pay close attention to? I have oem valve springs on... is that gonna be ok? (BTW there are no other mods to the engine... yet)
 

·
Gone but never forgetten
Joined
·
25,239 Posts
This is just the regular ol' Performer, right? (not the Performer RPM). If so, your stock valve springs should be adequate. Main thing to paya attention to is in the actual R&R of the cam. Be patient, be slow, and try and keep it as straight as possible to prevent nicking the cam bearings. Sticking a long bolt into the timing gear bolt hole will help, as you can use it as a "handle".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,859 Posts
your stock valve springs should be adequate
"Yes" and "No". They would be adequate to control the valves of a Performer cam, so long as there is no coil bind. I ASSumed that there was no way a mild cam like a "Performer" would have a problem with coil bind. One new cam, several broken polylocks and two bent pushrods later I found out otherwise. With a forty year old engine you just don't know what may or may not have been replaced (or "shimmed"). Bottom line (for the original post), even with a mild cam, CHECK FOR BIND!

(Sorry for the yelling... it's just a particularly frustrating memory for me.)

- Gord
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,712 Posts
I agree: double check everything!

As to advise: The only other trick I know is to stand your engine block up on the transmission end of the block (this assumes the engine is out of the car). By doing so, you are not fighting gravity and the torque of a long horizontal cam shaft. It is far easier to "drop" the camshaft in and avoid nicking the lobes.

As for stating the obvious: Lots of break in lube on the lobes, and always new lifters with a new cam. You did get a new timing gear and chain set too, didn't you?

Good luck!
 

·
Gone but never forgetten
Joined
·
25,239 Posts
That's actually some very good advice. I know the frustration you felt, or at least most of it, when I fired up an engine with a Performer RPM cam in it and stock springs. I just wanted to here it run, because I couldn't get my new valve springs that day. Even though the existing OEM spec springs only had about 10k miles on them, it took all of about 2 minutes before I snapped a rocker arm in half. I always felt extremely lucky that's all that broke.

I agree with all of you ... springs are cheap ... replace them with the new cam!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,671 Posts
One more thing~

The cam thrust plate should be changed to a later model thicker plate with most newer timing sets.

Always a good idea to check the end play of the cam before you button everything up. I believe the end play is from .004-.007".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
thanks guys! I'm lookin' into new valve springs... ha ha... and don't worry i got me a new timing set too. I'm kinda confused about the suggestion for a thicker thrust plate... is this a must? is the cam gonna move around a lot if i don't put it in?
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top