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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After sitting in my garage for nearly 2 years, I figured it was time to finally install the rack and pinion kit.
The kit I ended up getting was the Aeroform kit. There doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there on this kit, but
from what I've read, it's nearly identical to the Steeroids kit. I actually went to the Steeroids website to
download their directions and look at their database of headers that fit and don't fit with their kit. Looking at
the pictures of the two kits, I would say they were damn near identical. What drew me to this kit was simple.
Price. At the time, it was the least expensive kit out there at $895 (without column). I ended up getting the kit
with the Ididit steering column because after talking to Brian at Aeroform (very nice guy, very helpful and
knowledgeable) I decided I didn't want to cut up my tilt-away column. Everything was shipped within 1-2 business
days of purchase and everything came nicely packaged. If you follow their directions, 99% of what you need to
install this system is in the box. The 1% of parts missing is a steering wheel adapter. The Ididit column is a GM
universal unit and you will need to run an aftermarket wheel and a Grant 3196 adapter kit ($30). Since I was
already running a Grant wheel, this wasn't a big deal for me. I did purchase some additional parts as the kit was
not going to work 100% for me. I'll point out those parts and part numbers as I get to them in the how-to. This
isn't going to be a step-by-step how-to, but more of an overview and point out some stumbling points I ran across.

The first order of business was the column. As you can see in the picture, the column comes with a big ugly GM
connector.



The kit has the pins and connector block for the underdash harness that you would need to install on the 40+ year old harness. I didn't want to do this, so I cut the black connector off the column and installed the Ford
connector. You'll need the Scott Drake C8AZ-14489-S ($10) connector block and the Power Housing Pin TH-P/F P25 pins ($1.75).



The first step is to extend the wires a bit. They're a tad short and needed to be extended about 4 inches. I tried
to keep them color for color, but none of the local shops had yellow, brown, violet or white wire so I made do
where I could.



Next step is installing the female pins. I like to solder the connectors onto the wires in additional to the normal
crimp.



The black wire on the column does not get a female pin. Again, because this is a GM column, it works different than the Ford wiring so you need to run a relay (included in the kit) for the horn to function properly. So this black wire gets a female spade connector.



You'll also need to make up two short pigtails with female spades on one end and pin connectors on the other. These are the other two wires that will connect from the underdash harness to the horn relay.



Here's the column all connectorized.



Here's a picture of the relay with the pigtails. You'll see on the diagram which slots in the Ford connector those
plug into.



This is the Ididit column instructions with which pin slots the wires get plugged into.



This is the 1968 Ford wiring harness diagram showing which pin slots are which.



Pretty much you just slide the pins into the block and they lock into place.



The column installed and connected to the underdash harness. Everything works as it should.

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Now, onto the rack install...

Below is a picture of the rack kit itself (forgot to snap a pic of the hoses, but they're very nice pieces that are
very professionally made). Except for the brackets and probably the pressure side hose, everything in the kit is an
off the shelf part. I'd say there's probably $300 worth of parts there. The rack is off of a GM J-body (Beretta GT
I believe). The brackets are very nice sturdy pieces with a very nice heavy duty coating on them. All of the
brackets bolted into place perfectly without needing to use a drill or a pursuader to get it to fit.

DISCLAIMER! The directions say it takes about 3 hours to install this kit. I would guess if you either had two
people and a lift or you had no engine in the engine bay, it could possibly take you 3 hours to install the kit. It
took me 3 hours just to remove the old steering linkage and steering box. If you have long tube headers, there's a
good chance you may need to remove the driver side header to get the steering box out. I have power brakes and it definitely wasn't coming out the top of the engine bay. So I had to remove the header to get the box out from beneath the car. Also, the hoses that come in this kit are set up for an original '60s style Ford pump. I'm running a late model pump out of a Foxbody so I had to come up with an alternative for the pressure side hose (which I already knew about before purchasing the kit after talking to Brian). I decided to go with AN hose and fittings which I'll list out the parts I needed when I get to that part of the install.



The tie-rod bracket installed with the two spherical rod ends bolted up. You can see the two AN fittings installed in the pressure and return side ports.



Here it is installed in the car. It sits at about the same level as the old linkage.



Drivers side clearance (these are MAC headers BTW and have ZERO interferance issues.



Passenger side view.



U-joints from the column have plenty of clearance with the header.



Now for the AN parts. The return side is low pressure and you can use regular rubber lined hose and aluminum
fittings. The pressure side requires teflon lined hose and steel fittings. If you decide to go this route, I will
say it is not cheap. I probably could have just taken the pressure hose to a hydraulic shop and had them crimp on a new connector for $30. The rest of the engine bay is getting AN hose, so I wanted this to be AN hose as well.
Everything listed below was purchased from Summit Racing. I have NEVER built a single AN hose before in my life. I
watched about a dozen youtube videos and decided to give it a try. About the only specialized tools you need to
build them is a vise, air compressor and a cutoff wheel. You could probably do it without those, but I can't
imagine it would be very effective. I tried using some cable loppers I had and while it cut the hose, it crimped it
pretty bad and left a number of stray wire strands that needed to be trimmed. Using the cutoff wheel was quick and clean. A quick blast of air from the compressor cleaned out the hose. Super simple. The vise is also a time saver. You could probably assemble everything without one, but a vise is such a time saver.

Pressure side parts:
Aeroquip 3 feet of -6 TFE hose - FCC0603 - $21
Aeroquip -6 90° hose end - FBM1122 (x2) - $18.25 ea
Aeroquip -6 18mm x 1.5 adapter - FBM2609 - $14.95
Aeroquip -6 5/8-18 flare fitting - FBM2694 - $7.95

Return side parts:
Aeroquip -6 16mm x 1.5 adapter - FBM2608 - $13.95
Russell -6 hardline compression adapter - RUS-639210 - $8.95
Summit -6 90° hose end - SUM-220687N - $12.95
Summit -6 straight hose end - SUM-220690N - $4.95
Summit 6 feet of -6 hose - SUM-230606 - $24.95

Here's a pic of the Russell compression adapter on the plastic return end of the pump resevoir. I had to say I had
my doubts this would work but the damn thing fit perfectly and didn't pop off or leak a single drop of oil.



The pressure side of the pump. The flare fitting screws into the factory fitting on the pump.



This picture is the fittings installed on the rack. The 16mm fitting is the low pressure one and the 18mm is the
high pressure one. You can see the difference in hose ends too. The steel Aeroquip pressure fitting and hose is on
top and the aluminum return side is on the bottom. DISCLAIMER! The pressure side fitting did not fit intitially.
The adapter and elbow are about 1/4" longer than the fitting on the hose that comes in the kit. After bolting the
rack into place I went to install the hose end and realized it wasn't going to fit. So I had to remove it and screw
on the hose end. It was still about 1/8" too long to fit properly. So I took it all apart again and put a slight
bend in the elbow. I then flattened out the rolled edge of the frame rail with a BFH just a tad. That gave me enough room to install the rack with the fitting pre-attached.



I filled up the pump with GM/Ford compatible fluid and cranked it up and bled the system as per the instructions.
Everything seems to function properly and there were zero leaks (amazingly enough). The rack only has about 2.5
turns from lock to lock so I imagine there will be some reduced steering diameter. I am still waiting on some other
suspension parts before I can drop it down on the ground, but for the most part the install is complete.
 

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Thank you VERY much for this write up! I am planning to go the DIY route with a J-rack. The information about the hoses should help me a lot (I have all the hoses from the J-rack and the P/S pump, but I am also planning to add hydroboost and didn't get those hoses).

I have a question about the ididit column. Did you get an installation kit specific to the Mustang and what exactly did it provide? I've seen just the columns for around $350-$400, but the Mustang installation kits add another $150-$175 to the price. Just wondering if the kits are actually worth that or if I could instead modify all of my existing brackets to make it work.

Thanks again for the write up!
Chuck
 

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Great write up! :)

I've used this one for almost two years now and it's all been great :) I did have to replace one of the heim-joints because of wear, but that's okay. However I would recommend getting "Seals it" for the joints to protect them!

And btw, they also have the Ford column if you ask for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you VERY much for this write up! I am planning to go the DIY route with a J-rack. The information about the hoses should help me a lot (I have all the hoses from the J-rack and the P/S pump, but I am also planning to add hydroboost and didn't get those hoses).

I have a question about the ididit column. Did you get an installation kit specific to the Mustang and what exactly did it provide? I've seen just the columns for around $350-$400, but the Mustang installation kits add another $150-$175 to the price. Just wondering if the kits are actually worth that or if I could instead modify all of my existing brackets to make it work.

Thanks again for the write up!
Chuck
When I bought the kit 2+ years ago, Ididit didn't have a Mustang column out at the time. So this one is for a '69-'94 Chevy/GM. The new Mustang column probably would be a better way to go since it uses Ford-like parts and comes with an option for the u-joint splines so you don't need the install kit. When I bought the kit, almost everything came with it. The only extras I had to buy was what I listed above. For the column, it was $13 worth of parts.

If you need the part numbers for the tie rod parts, let me know. I found them all at Speedway Motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great write up! :)

I've used this one for almost two years now and it's all been great :) I did have to replace one of the heim-joints because of wear, but that's okay. However I would recommend getting "Seals it" for the joints to protect them!

And btw, they also have the Ford column if you ask for it.
Thanks for the info on the seals. I'm going to check that out.
 

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Wilit, if you could provide the tie rod information, that would be great!

Thanks,
Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The tie rods are 5/8" thread, 7/8" OD and are 13" long. They're speedway part number 91034158. I believe the rod ends are 175-0316 (LH thread) and 175-0116 (RH thread). The jam nuts are 175-6048 (same part number for LH and RH thread). I'm pretty sure the tie rod studs are 91636055-Pinto.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE: I had an issue with the taper pin. It's the pin that attaches the spindle to the tie rod end. The directions that came with the Aeroform kit were unclear and didn't state what the torque value is for the smaller nut that attaches the pin to the spindle. The larger lower nut is 50 ft/lbs and so I assumed the upper might be the same since it wasn't mentioned in the instructions. It is not. It ended up ruining the threads. Aeroform didn't sell these pins individually, but they ended up selling me a replacement. In the box came a small strip of paper with the proper torque values for both nuts. 30ft/lbs (dry) 35ft/lbs (oiled) for the top nut and 50ft/lbs (dry) and 55ft/lbs (oiled) for the lower. The replacement pin was $40. Brian was helpful as usual and they were able to get me the pin pretty quickly. After some research, I think I found the actual pins they use from Speeddirect.com (Steeroids manufacturers). They're $25 there. Part number 50021 for 67-69, 50080 for 65-66 and 50089 for Granada spindles.

My one complaint about these pins (and also those of the Roger Kraus Racing tech that aligned the car for me) was that to properly set up the bumpsteer on the car, there needs to be two spacers above the rod end. That doesn't leave a whole lot of threads for the nut. It does make it to the nylon lock part of the nut, but it doesn't stick out. I'm contemplating either drilling the pin and using a castle nut or buying the longer pins from Speedway motors that I mentioned above in a previous post.

That being said, I put about 100 miles on the car today. With the new suspension (620 coils, rebuilt upper control arms and new lowers) and new rear leafs the car is a completely different animal from before. It's no longer scary to drive. The steering feel is wonderful. Very precise and easy to keep it on the line you want it to. It does have a SIGNIFICANT reduction in steering radius however. This is a bummer in tight parking lots, but I was still able to make a u-turn without having to three point it.
 

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Is it too much to ask if this kit will clear clutch linkage?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is it too much to ask if this kit will clear clutch linkage?
Not sure. I'll be running a hydraulic clutch. Plus I have a roller block, so I have no idea where on the block the equalizer bar would attach to check to see. Sorry.
 

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What kind of bracket did you use to mount the Fox body power steering pump?
 

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Aeroquip -6 5/8-18 flare fitting - FBM2694 - $7.95
Small typo here. It's really part number FBM2964.

Summit -6 90° hose end - SUM-220687N - $12.95
Summit -6 straight hose end - SUM-220690N - $4.95
Summit 6 feet of -6 hose - SUM-230606 - $24.95
Also, FYI, all of the Summit parts have gone up in price, by $1-2 each. Not horrific, but they were the only ones to change.

Thanks again for posting this! It will be very helpful for me once I get mine going.

Chuck
 

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Sorry all to revive an old thread. However, internet searching for aeroform I could not find any info. Anyone have a contact details they can share?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry all to revive an old thread. However, internet searching for aeroform I could not find any info. Anyone have a contact details they can share?
They still exist, but I think they got out of the Mustang business for the most part. I think they still make some injection molded and fiberglass parts. http://www.aeroform.com/
 
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