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Discussion Starter #1
Im running my stock 65 air cleaner. The heat riser is in place and the flapper in the snorkel seems to be working properly.

Im wondering how effective that setup is down here in the summer. Its been 95+ and will remain that way until mid-Sep. 80+ until after Halloween.

Im considering a SD gold base Hipo aircleaner to match my gold valve covers but at $45, Im not sure its worth it.

On my past Mustangs I bought a drop base air cleaner and put a 3in tall filter in it.

Im considering some options to get the coolest air into the engine possible and still be somewhat stock-ish looking.

https://www.summitracing.com/ga/parts/sdk-c5zz-9600-g
 

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I have the chrome hi-po type air cleaner (blue base for 66) and I put away the correct air filter for "show" and I run an Accel Kool Blue (like K&N but blue instead of red) re-oilable air filter for daily use. I still have my stock snorkel type air cleaner I can also put on for that "stock/show" look, and they work okay for standard driving but not maximum airflow on a built engine. Some research suggests the stock air cleaners are best at preventing "fan wash" turbulence in the engine bay and certainly are better at preventing any water intrusion in downpour (I don't drive my Mustang in bad weather), and some have created a "ram" or "cold air" setup with stock air cleaners. The dual-snorkel ones from the early 80s Fords are good for that. But they are kinda pricey. You could fab one from two, I guess.
 

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I definitely prefer a 14” open element air cleaner over the factory type.
But let’s be honest here, they’re both just sucking in hot air from under the hood.
Routing cool outside air directly into the carburetor will require a few modifications.

Shop around. You can get a decent 14” chrome air cleaner for about $20. It just won’t have a fancy sticker on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Those Mustang dual snorkle air cleaners used to sell all day for $25. What happened?

I like the 65 paint scheme, black with gold, but its hard to keep the gold looking nice. Wires and hoses scuff it up pretty easy.

My 65 C-code is bone stock with the exception of dual exhaust on stock manifolds.
 

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Your engine is getting cool air from above the battery right now if the flapper is truly working, probably cooler than if you ditched the silencer and installed an open air cleaner.
 

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Your engine is getting cool air from above the battery right now if the flapper is truly working, probably cooler than if you ditched the silencer and installed an open air cleaner.
True. True. So maybe add a duct from an area behind the headlight etc straight to the snorkel. Easy to remove for that "what mod?" look.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What I would really like to do is find a second snorkle, remove the flapper and block off the heat riser.

Looks stock, no heat from the riser, no restriction in the snorkle.

Ive got the Shelby hood. Im guessing when stopped, air exits the scoop and when moving air enters the scoop.
 

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I'm running a K code air filter but as 22GT mentioned about cool air I've been casually watching CL and FB classifieds for a 83 to 85 Mustang GT air filter and run ducting to the bottom of the front bumper or some place
 

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This may be a derailment of the thread but it seems related: Anyone ever just put a simple 14" lid on the stock air cleaner, and add a rubber lip to the air cleaner base so it would contact the hood for a ram-air setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I bought a can of Duplicolor universal gold to paint the air cleaner and valve covers.

How successful would I be applying a couple coats of clear over the gold?
 
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