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Hey guys ,
Just finished up all the body work on my 65 coupe finally. I have all the materials needed to try my best to paint this car myself, my only question is what would be the best way to ensure I don't have water when spraying my car. I've read posts were people just recommend a filter before the gun and have your hose over 25ft to reduce condensation . I would appreciate any responses to educate me so I could get my car painted soon
 

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The only recommendation I have is to not waste your money on the filter from Harbor Freight that has granules in it to absorb the water. It is entirely too small and the granules don't last very long. I'm no expert, but I'd think you would want the filter at the pump to keep the water out of the hose.
 

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What compressor are you using ? That is part of the moisture puzzle because an under-sized compressor will run constantly, creating lots of heat. You can't drop all the water out until you get the air cooled down to a reasonable temperature.
 

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Here's what I fashioned out of 3/4" copper pipe and some ball valves. Condensation ran down each leg and drained from there. Used with a 60 gallon compressor. Worked like a charm.
763580
 

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I’ll be interested to hear what others have done. Obviously an after cooler would be ideal, but spendy. I have a 2 stage 80 gallon compressor and ran about 20’ of 3/4” copper with a couple of drops to a couple of filters (particulate and moisture). From there I have run 3/4” Rapid Air lines through my shop with 4 drop lines and drain valves. I don’t seem to get water at the drops, yet I am still concerned how it will work when I get to painting stage. I will probably put another filter for my paint hose and an in-line at the gun. I do try to keep the shop closed up and ambient humidity at 35-40%.
 

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I put a transmission cooler mounted to the cage on my compressor, when the compressor runs the fan built into the flywheel pulls air across it. I plumbed it from the pump to the trans cooler, then to a water trap (be sure to mount it lower than the cooler), then to the tank. The only thing I don't like is the bleed off is at the tank, so it bleeds off longer, but the water trap that i have drains every time it loses pressure. The difference in temp from the hose coming out of the pump to the hose coming from the cooler is drastic! I can't hardly touch it coming out of the pump to it's barely warm coming out of the cooler.

While it helps I would not paint with it. I am looking for a cheap mini fridge to build a diy line cooler. I figure I can coil a copper line inside the fridge with the air coming in the top and out the bottom, with another water trap at the bottom just as it comes out.
 

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I put a transmission cooler mounted to the cage on my compressor, when the compressor runs the fan built into the flywheel pulls air across it. I plumbed it from the pump to the trans cooler, then to a water trap (be sure to mount it lower than the cooler), then to the tank. The only thing I don't like is the bleed off is at the tank, so it bleeds off longer, but the water trap that i have drains every time it loses pressure. The difference in temp from the hose coming out of the pump to the hose coming from the cooler is drastic! I can't hardly touch it coming out of the pump to it's barely warm coming out of the cooler.

While it helps I would not paint with it. I am looking for a cheap mini fridge to build a diy line cooler. I figure I can coil a copper line inside the fridge with the air coming in the top and out the bottom, with another water trap at the bottom just as it comes out.
That's not a bad idea, maybe put a trans. cooler inside the fridge. I have Copper pipe like post #4, If I run the sandblaster hard for a while I will still get moisture coming through. Harbor Freight used to have a cheap refrigerated air dryer they discontinued, otherwise they seem to start at $700+ .
 

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That's not a bad idea, maybe put a trans. cooler inside the fridge. I have Copper pipe like post #4, If I run the sandblaster hard for a while I will still get moisture coming through. Harbor Freight used to have a cheap refrigerated air dryer they discontinued, otherwise they seem to start at $700+ .
I called HF because I seen an add for that dryer, they said it was online order only.
 

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Ive had good luck using a series of two water separators and a Coalescing filter. you will also need about 25 feet of air line prior to the first separator to let the water vapor condense back to liquid form. The coalescing filter is plumbed in at the end of the line, just before the regulator that I use for paint and powder coating. The coalescing filter uses a cartage filter element that looks similar to a TP roll, but with very stiff paper. This filter should be changed after a heavy use such as painting a whole car I also use a small disposable air filter at the inlet of the gun. I get most of my air handling equipment at www.tptools.com

Avoid driers that use a desiccant, some of them use a silica compound that may leach into the air stream and cause all kinds of problems with the finish.
 

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I ran a coil of 1/2 soft copper tube in a 5 gallon bucket, ten turns or so. Hot air in at the bottom of the bucket and a water seperator on the exit at the top of the buck. Add water and a 1 gallon jug of ice and it worked like a charm. Painted many a items with this setup.
 

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Your min of 25' shouldn't be "hose" but pipe, copper would be best(the thicker air rated stuff), rubber and PVC is a better insulator than conductor. Its not to reduce condensation, its to cause it, meaning to force water to fall from the air. Your climate and seasonal changes matter as well, heck morning to afternoon can matter.

Start with a simple water separator before your rubber hose, under $50. It is a mini expansion tank and centrifuge in one. Run lots of air through it and see what gets collected. You can get one of the mini ones and put it right before the gun to double check but you dont really want to start stacking it and filters and regulators off then end of a gun when you actually spray.
Oil you only nees to worry about depending on the compressor.

Lots of ways to skin that cat.
 

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You should be able to see to pics of my air line install from my build thread. Let me know if you're not seeing the pictures.


I painted my car with this setup and had no moisture problems at all. However, the air is very dry where I live.
 

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You should be able to see to pics of my air line install from my build thread. Let me know if you're not seeing the pictures.


I painted my car with this setup and had no moisture problems at all. However, the air is very dry where I live.
Yeah, my setup may be fine for painting, the pot blaster I've moisture issues with uses probably twice as much air flow. I have sprayed primer several times without issue with just a coalescing filter/regulator at the point of use.
 

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In addition to the separator at the compressor they make a moisture absorbing hose that I used at the gun to try and cut down the water some more. There's no chance I'm avoiding the humidity here in Florida so I figured a couple of feet of moisture absorbing hose had to help.

Something like this:
 

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The only problem with the snake is that they don't last and at $40 each, that can get expensive. I use these disposable filters at the gun and they seem to work well.
 

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I wonder if you can heat that hose up in an oven and dry it out like you can with the disposable filters at the gun?
 

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Has anyone used the HF dryer. That is pretty inexpensive. I think I paid over $200 for my Ingersol Rand filters/separator.
 
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