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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Folks,

Thought I'd open this can up and introduce the Grande I picked up in the UK for a steal.

There's a few issues so im hoping to get some help!

Here she is overall as when picked up. Paint seems decent and fairly new. Doors are in good condition and someone has recently painted the engine bay!



Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Vehicle Car

Car Vehicle Vehicle registration plate Grille Automotive parking light

Tire Vehicle Land vehicle Wheel Car

Car Tire Vehicle Wheel Hood

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
And for the parts that she needs fixing up!

Overheating:
I have an overheating issue for sure. I drove back with the car when it was 33 celsius, for the most part on the motorway it was fine until getting into the city, the temp started to climb to the H on the temp dial on the dash. I stopped just to make sure she didn't blow up.
The radiator cap did a good job of letting off some pressure. There was bubbling in the coolant over flow tank.

I've left her sit for 3 days, and drove her another 45 minutes and here's the conclusion.
She cool just over the half way mark on the temp gauge when cruising at 30-40 mph, when sitting still the temps climb rapidly within 3-5 minutes and stays high, you can feel the heat when moving from a stop at a traffic light.

Thermostat
I've ordered a new robertshaw 333 hi flow series thermostat and this looks like a a simple part of the potential problem. I'm not a mechanic but I should be able to do this myself, thermostat doesn't look buried its right on top the engine at the front - simple.

New Electric Fans and Radiator:
The other issue could be the radiator or the pump, it looks very old. I've spoken with NPD and hiflowpumps looks like they have a kit, but no one has the dual fans in stock and cold case is apparently only manufacturing single fan radiator alu units. I'll need an electric hiring harness and potentially a few other things to make this work. I have the dual electric fans on my SBC 90 Defender and temps never go above 50c/60c even when street racing, its great.

Split Fuel Tank
The other issue was when filling up the tank immediately after purchasing, half the fuel tank was leaking down the garage forecourt, it was a hairy moment. Dropped the sand and waited for it to stop, it seems there is a split in the seam of the tank. I can only fill up half the original tank and even when moving aggressively fuel drips out and splashes onto the left exhaust.

I'm ordering a 22 gall tank from NPD and tankarmor - just need to get tankarmor to ship to the UK.

Interior
Worn down, debating whether to get ACC carpets shipped to my aunt then to me in the UK, or get a custom trimmer to redo the interior in the style of joe rogan's black as black can be Camaro. Stock Interiors refused to ship to me.

Trim
Some of the trim is worn. Decided to buy new repro's if they can't be restored with 4000 gauge steel wool/autosol.

Brakes:
Waiting for a reply from Wilwood about 6 pots up front and a rear kit. Also waiting for a reply for which master cyclinder they recommend. Drum brakes are awful, im used to minimum 4 pots on my C3 454. I have some brand new 6 pot Tarox brakes but need to research if they can go on Stang with some adaptation. Tarox is not a known brand, they are made in Turkey, but I had they removed and replaced with AP racing radical 6 pots and to be honest - the tarox's had better stopping power

Engine:
Edelbrock Torker 2 Single Plane and a 650cfm Holley Ultra Double Pumper (Electric Choke/2 inch spacer) on order. Sway Bar front and Rear ordered.

Electrics:
Left Rear Side marker is out
Right Front HL is out
Dash Full LED replacement
Halo LED Headlights from Dapper Lighting with Switchback
Audison 2X14 inch subs, tweeters and 2x6 or 9inch speakers
Covert USB Charging Points
Anderson Charging on on battery
Immobiliser/Alarm/Tracker
Ambient Lighting

Other parts ordered or in progress
New Scott Drank Pop Up Cap
Gano Filter
Description
70 Rear Side Marker Bezel LH Chr
70 Rear Side Marker Bezel RH Chr
70 Hood Molding
70 Front Side Marker Bezel LH Ch
70 Front Side Marker Bezel RH Ch
70 Side Marker Assembly LH
1970 Side Marker Assembly RH
70 Side Marker Retainer LH
70 Side Marker Retainer RH
70 Grille Horse Emblem
69-70 Dash Panel Emblem Grande
70 Fuel Cap Deluxe Pop-Open
69-70 Instrument Panel LED Set
64-73 Hood Pin Kit (without Cables)
70-73 Thermostat Housing Water Neck

70 Fuel Tank Sending Unit
68-70 Fuel Tank Filler Kit
64-73 Fuel Sending Unit Gasket
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Picture of the Seats
Grille Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
Hood Light Motor vehicle Automotive design Grille


Door Seals - Need help finding the lower seal on the quarter panel glass for both sides?
Hood Automotive lighting Plant Automotive tire Automotive tail & brake light
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive exterior
Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Car Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire


Mirrors - they are slightly wobbly, and on right side the glass wobbles as you drive. The screws are rusting so I assume this is not original and someone has used a black screw to go into the body. Do screws need replacing or entire unit to fix the wobbly glass?

Water Fin Underwater Fish Window
Water Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design


Radiator
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design
Water Hood Textile Automotive lighting Wood
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some more pics of the radiator
Water Hood Textile Automotive lighting Wood
Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bicycle tire


Air Cleaner with no filter so I can't really get an accurate measurement. Does anyone know the stock filter dimensions for the 351C cleaner?

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Blue Light
Wheel Automotive tire Blue Hood Fluid


Tower Links
Motor vehicle Blue Automotive tire Hood Automotive fuel system
Hood Car Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design


engine overall
Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design
 

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1970 Sportroof Mustang Grabber Value Package
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You must have read some where we like pictures!
Welcome and we do like pictures!
Make sure you get the correct T-state for the Cleveland and the "restrictor" plate below is installed or it will not function correctly.


 

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Welcome. Nice find. Thanks for sharing. I recently finished building a 1970 Mach 1 with a 351 Cleveland. A few points:

- Likely the radiator is simply shot. Converting to electric cooling fans is certainly doable, but doing it right is expensive. You would probably be fine with a new replacement 20 radiator. However, I opted for a 24" 3-core radiator and a 7-blade Cobra Jet clutch fan and a factory shroud. While not cheap, that whole package will be less than a new aluminum radiator with electric cooling fans, relays and high output alternator.

- Aftermarket brake kits are spiffy. Rear discs are easy to work on and they look cool. Otherwise, on a street car, they won't do much for you. A factory 1970 disc brake kit will bolt on and work very well. Rebuilding the rear drums isn't that difficult. Just something to consider. I went with the Kelsey Hayes 4-piston caliper, non-power discs on my Mustang. I'm really happy with these brakes. Not having to add a power booster made the install very simple. Mustangs really don't need power brakes. My car stops easily with little pedal effort.

- I don't think reproduction Grande' interiors are available. Pretty sure the deluxe interior kits will fit right onto your seat frames. Multiple colors are available.

- To reiterate what Jeff posted, be careful about the Cleveland thermostat. Almost every vendor and parts store will sell you a Ford Windsor thermostat. It will fit, but it won't work correctly. Use the link Jeff posted or get the conversion plate from West Coast Classic Cougar which allows you to run a Windsor thermostat.

Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Welcome. Nice find. Thanks for sharing. I recently finished building a 1970 Mach 1 with a 351 Cleveland. A few points:

- Likely the radiator is simply shot. Converting to electric cooling fans is certainly doable, but doing it right is expensive. You would probably be fine with a new replacement 20 radiator. However, I opted for a 24" 3-core radiator and a 7-blade Cobra Jet clutch fan. While not cheap, that whole package will be less than a new aluminum radiator with electric cooling fans, relays and high output alternator.

- Aftermarket brake kits are spiffy. Rear discs are easy to work on and they look cool. Otherwise, on a street car, they won't do much for you. A factory 1970 disc brake kit will bolt on and work very well. Rebuilding the rear drums isn't that difficult. Just something to consider. I went with the Kelsey Hayes 4-piston caliper, non-power discs on my Mustang. I'm really happy with these brakes. Not having to add a power booster made the install very simple. Mustangs really don't need power brakes. My car stops easily with little pedal effort.

- I don't think reproduction Grande' interiors are available. Pretty sure the deluxe interior kits will fit right onto your seat frames. Multiple colors are available

Have fun!

Hi @Klutch

Thank you very much for your input!


I have trauma way back from an old Audi A4 1.8T (European thing) where I ended up replacing a simple coolant flange about 10 times before scraping the car. So, I have OTT with cooling because of that experience. My SBC350 ran hot with a old radiator. Maybe I can try a new replacement radiator, although, if I do any mods to the engine then it's going to push the limits of a clutch fan. I could do this while waiting for the backlog to clear up for high end aluminium rads. Point taken.

My braking system is very aggressive (so i've been told). I brake late and at high speed. I replace my mercedes pads and discs approx every 13-14 months as the discs are toast.

I have two issues with my brakes. When I gently hit the brake, I notice a phantom vacuum on the pedal. There is some kind of factor happening where the pedal slightly compresses beyond where my foot is, which is a bit scary because it means the brakes don't automatically come back up for me to brake. I've been driving it while 'timing' when to brake adequately, which means im leaving more distance behind the car in front. Could be air, could be a vacuum issue? There seems to be a new-ish master cylinder installed, its definitely not rusty at all.

I would at least go 4 pots on front and maybe some EBC disc rotors and pads on the back to put my mind at rest.

Secondly, I think there's also a floating feel to the car but this probably has much more to do with the suspension and rigidity of the chassis. Sway Bars 1+ Inch on front and at least 7/8th on the back and a shock tower brace is being looked into . When I do brake, the car sways, but also when I steer left or right within lane, the car also seems to want to sway :D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I may end up getting the interior retrimmed instead of off the shelf kits. I'm not in the US so I can't really see what I'd be getting.

Here's some interior porn in my defender SBC 90

Automotive design Automotive tire Grey Font Tints and shades
 

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Hi @Klutch

Thank you very much for your input!


I have trauma way back from an old Audi A4 1.8T (European thing) where I ended up replacing a simple coolant flange about 10 times before scraping the car. So, I have OTT with cooling because of that experience. My SBC350 ran hot with a old radiator. Maybe I can try a new replacement radiator, although, if I do any mods to the engine then it's going to push the limits of a clutch fan. I could do this while waiting for the backlog to clear up for high end aluminium rads. Point taken.

My braking system is very aggressive (so i've been told). I brake late and at high speed. I replace my mercedes pads and discs approx every 13-14 months as the discs are toast.

I have two issues with my brakes. When I gently hit the brake, I notice a phantom vacuum on the pedal. There is some kind of factor happening where the pedal slightly compresses beyond where my foot is, which is a bit scary because it means the brakes don't automatically come back up for me to brake. I've been driving it while 'timing' when to brake adequately, which means im leaving more distance behind the car in front. Could be air, could be a vacuum issue? There seems to be a new-ish master cylinder installed, its definitely not rusty at all.

I would at least go 4 pots on front and maybe some EBC disc rotors and pads on the back to put my mind at rest.

Secondly, I think there's also a floating feel to the car but this probably has much more to do with the suspension and rigidity of the chassis. Sway Bars 1+ Inch on front and at least 7/8th on the back and a shock tower brace is being looked into . When I do brake, the car sways, but also when I steer left or right within lane, the car also seems to want to sway :D.
A larger front sway bar would be a big help. Most common is a 1". Shaun at Street or Track recommended a 1-1/8" for my Cleveland and it works well. Don't forget the steering box. Likely, it's completely shot. I got a rebuilt steering box from Chockostang. Not sure if that's an option across The Pond.

There's a lot of debate about rear sway bars on a leaf spring car. My Mach 1 came from the factory with a small rear sway bar. I really like the way it handles. Not sure if a bigger rear sway bar would cause problems.

I see you have power steering. There's a lot of debate about the early Mustang power steering as well. Be careful of aftermarket power steering kits. Results are mixed. I got a brand new, factory power steering kit for my Mach 1. It works well and it has NO LEAKS. Again, I got it from Chockostang. Your local mate Ed China recently rebuilt an early Mustang power steering system on his YouTube show. You might give that a watch to see if you're up for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A larger front sway bar would be a big help. Most common is a 1". Shaun at Street or Track recommended a 1-1/8" for my Cleveland and it works well. Don't forget the steering box. Likely, it's completely shot. I got a rebuilt steering box from Chockostang. Not sure if that's an option across The Pond.

There's a lot of debate about rear sway bars on a leaf spring car. My Mach 1 came from the factory with a small rear sway bar. I really like the way it handles. Not sure if a bigger rear sway bar would cause problems.
The steering is really light, I was told it's got power steering. It's lighter than my 2014 vehicle! I'll need to get it checked by a mech...

I'm trying to get my hands on the Total Control Tower Brace System which has the export brace, Fender Monte Carlo Braces, and truss brace
 

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The steering is really light, I was told it's got power steering. It's lighter than my 2014 vehicle! I'll need to get it checked by a mech...

I'm trying to get my hands on the Total Control Tower Brace System which has the export brace, Fender Monte Carlo Braces, and truss brace
From the factory, it was finger tip steering. Many people don't like that. There are ways to make it feel more firm. And a modern alignment will make it return to center better.

That tower brace system sounds really spiffy, but no doubt it's a lot of cheddar. FYI, you can easily install an export brace and a Monte Carlo bar and that works pretty well. Shoot, if your Mustang was originally shipped to Europe, you might already have an Export Brace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
From the factory, it was finger tip steering. Many people don't like that. There are ways to make it feel more firm. And a modern alignment will make it return to center better.

That tower brace system sounds really spiffy, but no doubt it's a lot of cheddar. FYI, you can easily install an export brace and a Monte Carlo bar and that works pretty well. Shoot, if your Mustang was originally shipped to Europe, you might already have an Export Brace.
It has a shock tower brace but not a one piece, instead two separate braces from each tower back to the fire wall.
 
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