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Friend is comming into town to assist in setting my margins and gaps on the 70. Any tips would be greatly appriciated.
I got the doors close, but I, by myself, could not get the lower rear corner to get flush. Aways stayed out 1/2 ". I know they can be set better as the bodyshop that painted it had the margins and gaps set perfect minus weatherstrip and door guts. The picture in my Sig. is how I recieved the car after paint. I would say they were better than factory.
The lower rear corner seemed very springy like the rubber weatherstrip was keeping it from closing.
The fenders and hood are still off from dropping in the engine.

Should I set with the striker in, loose, Door latch loose?
 

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Get a roll of 2 inch masking tape.Get automotive quality tape(NAPA has it),not the drugstore kind.Wax the areas you'll be working on,so the tape will come off easier and reduce the chance of taking the paint with it.If the paint preparation was done correctly,this shouldn't be a problem.Mask the edges of the fenders,rockers,and quarter panel(2-3 layers thick)(.If the door guts haven't been installed yet,put some weight inside the door.If you skip this step,the door will hang a bit lower than you intended once the door guts are installed.My experience with this has taught me that no matter how much effort you put into this,there's going to be a certain amount of compromise as to how it fits.To make it look it best,focus on the upper body lines.This job will turn out much better with two sets of hands.I try to get gaps as small as 3/16 inch,but it takes a lot of effort.To move the door closer to the quarter,you'll have to loosen the hinges at the door post.Leave the door a little high when you make this adjustment,then use the adjustment on the door flange to work it downward as work progresses.If it needs to be moved in or out at the top or bottom,loosen all but one bolt on the door flanges and twist the door,then retighten.This way you can change the depth without letting it drop.When you're satisfied with the fit of the door to the quarter,adjust the striker to the latch so that the door doesn't move up or down when they meet.I'm most familiar with '65-'66's but I think the bolt patterns are the same on the '69-'70.When tightening the fender,always tighten the bolt above the upper door hinge first.This is the one that you have to open the door to access it.If you tighten the bolts in the engine compartment before this one,the fender will move away from the cowl every time,and leave a big gap between the hood and fender.The results you get will be directly proportionate to the amount of effort invested.I hate excessive gaps and sloppy fit,so you don't want to know how many hours I put into this on my car.Hope this helps and good luck...
 
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