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Discussion Starter #1
I got my new 165 R 15 VW bug tires. They are fantabulous. After my big skid a while back I knew it had knocked the alignment out so I took it over to the place I used before. The owner came out and did my setup personally. How is that for service. He is a racer dude from way back and I saw a picture of him running an asphalt race car on his shop wall.

As suspected my toe was out so he fixed that. The camber was still dead on but I'm struggling with the negative caster situation. He suggested I try the 67 adjustable strut rods and he thought that he could get me some caster just with that assuming they will fit. Does anybody know if they will fit? I can go get a set today that somebody will give to me but it would be nice to know they fit before I go to this much trouble. I'm pretty sure my lower control arms were for several years of mustang and they have 2 sets of holes drilled in them. Maybe that is the general rub with the fit situation.
 

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Why not do the Shelby drop? When doing this, the arms go down 1 inch as you know, but also go back towards the firewall 1/8" inch. The caster spec is 2 degrees positive caster.

While this mod is more for the road racer set, the added caster to keep to on track, sort to say, (pun intended *LOL*) may be what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I already did the Shelby mod using the official template from Branda so I know that was done right. All I can get is -1.2 degrees of caster without putting a crap load of alignment shims in it and the alignment dude feels that would really be too much considering what I'm doing with the car. The big difference and the problem is that I need some camber for drag racing. I think that tends to prevent it from letting me get the caster that I need. Its better for me to get the camber than the extra caster if I have to choose one. I even considered shaving down the back side bushings on the strut rods so I can pull it forward more. I didn't think this would be a good idea. I guess I will just try the 67 strut rods and see if they will work.
 

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John - I understand your situation. Being able to dial in 2-3 degrees positive caster makes a world of difference in the way these cars track at high speed.

I don't think the 67 rods will work, but I do know that TCP makes a set of adjustables for the early cars (I have a set). There is also a 67-style set of camber-adjusting eccentrics (I have those too) from Pro Motorsports in Utah. Only problem is that they are both outrageously expensive.

One VMFer in MA (can't remember his name - Martin maybe?) was working on designing his own adjustable/affordable strut rods. Don't know how far he got but you might do a search for the string "strut rods" from the last year and try and contact the guy.

Let us know how things work out for you. Good luck.
 

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Coil over strut time? I didn't know you did that already. Drop camachinist a PM. He seems to have a good head on his shoulders for this.
 
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Hey, Hottarod just checking to see if you have found out anything about the strut rods. I'm in the same boat, the front in alignment guy said I needed adjustable strut rods too but the only ones I can find is the after market ones that are for $300 to $400 and I can't afford that right know and it will be good while. Has anyone tried them from any other kind of cars?

Let me know if you find anything out, thanks Man
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The vario-centric kit for the lower control arms and the adjustable strut rods are the next notch up to fix this but the strut rods are fairly expensive and really beyond what I need. With these 2 jobbies in there you throw away your alignment shims and can get caster out the yin yang(so I'm told, LOL).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The strut rods I'm looking to get are on a 67 cougar(should be same as 67 stang). The lower control arms look identical to mine but mine are aftermarket and may have been made for 65 thru 68. The best part is that the strut rods are free if I want them. My understanding is that there is a steel sleeve that the strut rod slides in and this sleeve is located in the holes in the frame rails where the strut rod is bolted up to the frame rails. This lets it slide back and forth when you loosen the stop nut and adjust it. I'm not sure if it will work but I will know one way or the other tomorrow and I will post the results.
 
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