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Discussion Starter #1
The car was aligned back when it had the POS 14" roll arounds on it. The guy at the tire shop said that the condition of the tire would not effect the alignment.

However above 50 mph the car really wants to go from side to side. Kinda like you make a correction, and immediatly you need to correct that as well. It give you the feeling that if you were going faster that the car would want to fishtail around you.

Any suggestions.
 

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Tires should not keep a car from being properly aligned as the tires are not part of the measurements/adjustments. The wheels are aligned.
However tires definitely can cause a tracking issue.

Many shops do not do a complete alignment, especially on vintage cars. Some just set the toe and let it go!

Let's see what the wizards suggest for setup numbers.
Sounds like it's time for a recheck.

Steering linkage wear can also cause this. Do you have new tie rod ends, ball joints, etc.?
 

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Assuming that all steering and suspension components are in good shape, too little positive caster is usually the culprit when a car wanders and/or follows ruts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
All suspension is new, here are the measurements from the alignment.

Left Front
Camber .4
Caster 1.3 Toe .15

Right front

camber .5
Caster 1.6
Toe .12


Front Cross Camber -.1
Cross Caster -.3
Total Toe .26

Thanks again,
 

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If you have power steering, you might want to look at the control valve. Too much slop there will result in symptoms such as you describe.
 

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Bob you've posted about the PS recently. Has it been worked on? I'm rebuilding mine now and bearing preloads on the gearbox are very critcal to help minimize this type of problem. Preloads must be measured on the bench.

Control valve centering spring adjustment effects how hard it is to turn left vs. right. Sort of an obscure description but basically does the steering re-center properly. I think that's a drive and try it type adjustment.

All this may be moot if you have a caster problem.
Is everything properly torqued? Strut rods?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Seems to re-center just fine, the steering effort is very easy, meaning it take very little presure to turn the wheel. The gear box has never been out, and the car only has about 70k miles on it. I did rebuild the conrol valve. All other aspects seem to be in order.

Does my alignment #'s look to be correct.
 

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I would vote for a worn idler arm or pitman arm
 

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Sometime I catch myself wandering at HIGH speeds. Ask Midlife
:joker: :joker: :joker: :joker: :joker: :joker: :joker:
http://www.cmaynard.com/Misc/917968_b~Stoner-Advisory-Extreme-High-Posters.jpg
http://www.cmaynard.com/Misc/7665_b~Dude-WTF-Posters.jpg

Sorry I can't contribute anything of real substance legally but as soon as we put new wheels on Red I hope we can also address this same problem. I've recently been calling Red.... The Squirrel Meister
 

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For a car with power steering, I'd recommend caster more towards 2.5*. For manual steering, 2.0*. Higher caster usually helps in wandering steering, if all your steering components are tight. The first place to check, however, are worn bushings, ball joints, that sort of thing.
 

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All suspension is new, here are the measurements from the alignment.

Left Front
Camber .4
Caster 1.3 Toe .15

Right front

camber .5
Caster 1.6
Toe .12


Front Cross Camber -.1
Cross Caster -.3
Total Toe .26

Thanks again,

If that camber reading is .4 and .5 positive camber, that's part of your problem. The camber should be 0 on both sides or a little negative camber. Something under .5deg neg. camber on both sides.

I agree with Mid that more caster is needed.

John
 

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I'm with Midlife,... more positive caster, about +2.5 degrees. Also, that toe setting at 0.26 total is way too much, should be no more than 1/8" (0.125") total. Make sure it's toe "in"... not toe "out" (that positive toe number freaks me out a little).

On the camber, you have small numbers, but they're positive... they should be between 0.5 and 1.0 degrees negative.

my .02
 

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We put 1.9 degrees of camber on my 67 GT350. That's all we could get before the strut rods ran out of threads. Tracks very well.

Managed to get 2.5 degrees on my 73 vert.
 

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I'm with everybody else, your alignment specs need some adjusting.
Definitely more positive caster is needed, some negative camber would be nice and getting the toe right will make for a much better cruise.
 

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But doesn't the car also now have 235/60's on 15 x 7 wheels?
If the car had skinny worn tires on 14's when it was aligned, I'd guess the feeling is a combination of that being the basis of the alignment, and the fact that those wider tires are grabbing every imperfection on the road.
(See "trammlining", and "bumpsteer" for further info! :: )
 
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