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alignment=soon to be problem?

489 Views 10 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  BlackStick
In my 66, I swapped in a 351w, installed swap headers, and had to cut some length off the upper control arm bolts so they could clear. Unfortunately, I will not be able to add shims(maybe one or two) when it comes time to do the alignment. Can I get it "good enough" with just tie rod adjustments??
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“…..Can I get it "good enough" with just tie rod adjustments??
No, you can’t. The tie rod adjustments won’t have any desired impact on the camber and caster settings.

You say you can put in a thin shim stack. Only by trial and error will you find out if it’s going to work out.

Offhand, I doubt that a shim stack under 5/16” - 3/8” is going to be satisfactory. But every car is going to be a little different.

Z
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You need these: Street or Track Adjustable Strut Rods

And then these: Roller Lower Control Arms - Street Performance / Drag Racing - Early Falcon & Comet (1965-1966) Mustang - Opentracker Racing

Then you weld in some of these: Lower arm camber kit 65-66 Mustang - Falcon Comet - Opentracker Racing

And you're all set! Alignment changes with minimal shims.

I sure enjoyed spending your money there. But it costs $$ if you want to go fast.

Good luck,
MrFreeze
I spend clients' money all day, wish it was mine lol. Going fast I have, just need to go straight while doing it.
 

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In my 66, I swapped in a 351w, installed swap headers, and had to cut some length off the upper control arm bolts so they could clear. Unfortunately, I will not be able to add shims(maybe one or two) when it comes time to do the alignment. Can I get it "good enough" with just tie rod adjustments??
 

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I spend clients' money all day, wish it was mine lol. Going fast I have, just need to go straight while doing it.
Do you have enough room to use a longer bolt than what you cut off?

For straight line you mostly need caster (at least 3*) and toe-in (assuming that you can the front wheels parallel to the ground with shims.)

Adjustable strut rods will help caster BUT unfortunately, the stock LCA bushings have minimal forward movement available before they bind up. There is a spherical bearing kit that replaces the bushing on your LCA. Then, with the adjustable strut rods, you can pull your tire all the way up to the front of the fender if you want to.

My go to for affordable Strut rods: Rosehill Performance Parts.

The spherical bearing kit is here: DIY Lower Control Arm Bearing Kit (1965-1973) 1-7/16" Bushing - Opentracker Racing
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you have enough room to use a longer bolt than what you cut off?

For straight line you mostly need caster (at least 3*) and toe-in (assuming that you can the front wheels parallel to the ground with shims.)

Adjustable strut rods will help caster BUT unfortunately, the stock LCA bushings have minimal forward movement available before they bind up. There is a spherical bearing kit that replaces the bushing on your LCA. Then, with the adjustable strut rods, you can pull your tire all the way up to the front of the fender if you want to.

My go to for affordable Strut rods: Rosehill Performance Parts.

The spherical bearing kit is here: DIY Lower Control Arm Bearing Kit (1965-1973) 1-7/16" Bushing - Opentracker Racing

Looks like I can put new bolts in all except one. It's cut off right at the tube. Looks like ultimately I will have to upgrade my suspension.
 

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I have to ask if the alignment was good before you put the engine in/cut off the bolts. If it was, you're probably going to be OK. But if all the shims were removed before the engine was put in, you may have issues. You won't really know until you check the alignment and see what needs to be done.
 

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I’ll ask the dumb question, can you “massage” the header tube to gain room?
 

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You can get all of the parts from Street or Track; UCA's, roller spring perches and the camber kit. Why not use everything form the same mfg? I did a poor job of research and planning ahead and now have SoT UCA's with the drop, OT spring perches and Hotchkis adjustable LCA's. I took the Hotchkis LCA's because I preferred to have an adjustment vs roughing out the holes and then welding in the brackets for the shims in the camber kits. I am sure the end result is the same but the price difference is significant. I do not have a welder so it was just easier to throw money at it.
 
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