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Finalizing my mustang and I am already thinking about putting different heads on the 67 coupe. I was talking to the guy that sold to me. He told me that they took the heads to someone for "repair" and never got them back so they put regular heads on my coupe many years ago and then sold to me as such. This got me thinking maybe I just going to change the heads before I even get it on the road. He did say that they changed the cam (don't know what he did or what kind exactly. Nor do I know the mileage of such). Anyhow, I just ran with how it was set up. Currently with and Edelbrock carb and intake manifold and Thorley headers. Have gone through and put all lowered 1" with springs. Original suspension except upgraded monte carlo bar, export bar and sway bar. So it brings me to the questions:

1. Can the head change be done with the engine still in the car. Since it is all together I don't necessarily want to yank it, since I have new paint and just hooked up Vintage Air and all.

2, Can this be done by one person (hood off) if I choose? Is it a fairly simple process?

3. Regarding heads....I have of course heard about various heads, more specially bolt-ons Edelbrock but now I have heard about P-38. Edelbrock vs. P-38?

4. How much HP until I have to get rear end and tranny or brake work. Stock C-4, original disk brake, and orginal rear rend that I want to keep. In that regard I would like to stay close to original as possible.

5. Should I just drive it as-is and see how it performs with the slight mods it has?

6. At what point are subconnectors needed?


It is an A-code car pushing about 225 hp at stock so I don't know what I would be pushing now. Maybe 250hp with the stuff I have. I am thinking about being mild with the heads and looking for maybe 320-350hp. Nothing crazy, that's plenty fast enough, I believe. Want a muscle car not a race car. I don't drive real hard just want some fun. Overall trying to keep the car original with some mods.Old school early seventies ride.

As always, I appreciate the thoughts. A lot of questions, I know. Questions I have not thought of?
 

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There are as many opinions about heads as there are heads to choose from. Don't know what you're currently running, but stock 289 heads ain't bad. The further you go into the 70s and 80s generally worse they get for performance. For a cast iron head, the GT40P heads are about as good as you'll get in stock without shaving for smaller combustion chamber or cutting for larger valves. There are a ton of aluminum heads to choose from. Pretty much any of those will flow better than any iron head. You can change any head by yourself, engine in the car, and hood still on.
 

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My 2 cents at this point in your project, based on your questions, would be to not open up another task that doesn't really need to be done. Yes 1 person can pull the heads with the motor in the car, no you don't have to pull the hood. One of those p.i.a.jobs that leaves old men with sore backs. Finish all the other things still to do and get the car on the road.:) Sub connectors are not "needed" on your car. The simple style that just connects the front to the rear is easy to install at any time. I bought a set of the bolt in ones, installed them, and then welded them to the rails after not noticing any initial stiffness change in the ride....definitely stiffer after welding them in. They also double as great skid plates on speed humps!
 
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