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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing an AC unit in my 66 vert with 302ci - using a Sanden compressor.
My coil is presently all connected on the left/driver's side.
So I need to relocate the coil, and I SEE THAT THE COIL is usually installed on the right/passenger side.
HOWEVER, my wires to the coil run along the driver's side gutter, and to move it over to the right side, I'll have to lengthen the wires.
I really rather not have to do all those patches to lengthen the wires, SO, has anyone mounted their coil in other locations, like maybe on a bracket over the left side valve cover, or something like that?

I seem to recall that the coil should not be right next to the compressor (am I right?).

Thanks for comments or ideas.
 

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If you're not worried about Concours Correctness you can mount it anywhere you want it. Mine ( a mid 80's e-coil) is attached to my Monte Carlo bar.
 

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I'm installing an AC unit in my 66 vert with 302ci - using a Sanden compressor.
My coil is presently all connected on the left/driver's side.
So I need to relocate the coil, and I SEE THAT THE COIL is usually installed on the right/passenger side.
HOWEVER, my wires to the coil run along the driver's side gutter, and to move it over to the right side, I'll have to lengthen the wires.
I really rather not have to do all those patches to lengthen the wires, SO, has anyone mounted their coil in other locations, like maybe on a bracket over the left side valve cover, or something like that?

I seem to recall that the coil should not be right next to the compressor (am I right?).

Thanks for comments or ideas.

A picture of what you have now might be helpful
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Monte Carlo bar -- that would really give me flexibility on where to position the coil.
However, I can see the advantage of being mounted on the engine to eliminate discordant vibrations, while if the coil is mounted on the body and not with the engine, the connecting wires will vibrate excessively -- the cause of wires breaking.
 

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"I really rather not have to do all those patches to lengthen the wires"
It is only two wires !
Cut the terminials off, solder two new ones to the ends , put some heat shrink on them and tape them up. You will only need two pieces of wire about 16 inches long.
737598
 
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while if the coil is mounted on the body and not with the engine, the connecting wires will vibrate excessively -- the cause of wires breaking.
Well, that's news to me. So are you saying that all of those electrical devices (solenoids, voltage regulators, horns, lights, etc, etc) that Ford attached to the body have broken wires going to them?
 

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Mine is mounted horizontally on the intake in front of the throttle linkage. My intake has a threaded hole that worked perfectly.
737606
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, that's news to me. So are you saying that all of those electrical devices (solenoids, voltage regulators, horns, lights, etc, etc) that Ford attached to the body have broken wires going to them?
Well, maybe it's theoretical, but it's one of those "be aware of" points for electricians - avoid running a wire between 2 points that are attached at different points that vibrate at different rates (such as the engine vs the body). It stresses the wires so that they can break inside the insulation.
I'm sure you have taken a wire and broken it intentionally by repeatedly folding back and forth.
Obviously, you can't avoid V-regulators, battery cable to starter, leads to ignition.
But your example of horns and lights is not the same -- none of those wires run between a vibrating engine and the car's body.
You'll notice, no one fixes spark plug wires to engine compartment sidewalls.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
"I really rather not have to do all those patches to lengthen the wires"
It is only two wires !
Cut the terminials off, solder two new ones to the ends , put some heat shrink on them and tape them up. You will only need two pieces of wire about 16 inches long.
View attachment 737598
Awww, now that you break it down into two steps, it certainly seems simple enough. For some reason, I recall a bunch of wires going to the coil. I'll look closer to see where they are coming from (MSD dizzy) - see attached. Plus it's wrapped in tape.
Spending more time talking about it than fixing it, huh.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A picture of what you have now might be helpful
Some pix showing compressor mounting plate basically in place (still have to redrill PS mounting plate), coil moved out of the way (it previously was on the driver's side of the engine (see last pic showing it's original location).
 

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Relocate the coil to the front of the PS head using a factory coil mounting bracket. I run the same components you are describing with no issues. As yarb wrote in an earlier post, "it is only two wires". In the pic, you will see that I have three, but one is for the tach signal which you may or may not have. It couldn't be easier!
737617
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Relocate the coil to the front of the PS head using a factory coil mounting bracket. I run the same components you are describing with no issues. As yarb wrote in an earlier post, "it is only two wires". In the pic, you will see that I have three, but one is for the tach signal which you may or may not have. It couldn't be easier!
View attachment 737617
RHUTT - I can't really tell, but are all the wires to the coil stretched over from the driver's side of the engine?
Yes, have a tach wire (Rally-Pac)
 

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I ran my wires along the DS apron as far forward as required to branch off in front of the DS head, where it then runs across the front of the engine and can be seen in this pic.
737618
 
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Sure do! It is all factory equipment..
737620
 
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Discussion Starter #20
If you're not concerned with originality, get a long coil wire and mount the coil back on the firewall or the rear of the intake manifold.
Good option. I'll try stetching to the PS front, then go back - I think there might even be a mounting hole in the rear of my manifold
 
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