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Discussion Starter #1
I upgraded to 3g alternator and I’m having issues where the light stays on when i reconnect the battery. Any thoughts? The I on my ignition switch is also getting power at the same time.
 

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Well, if the battery is connected, but the engine not running, it is supposed to be on.

If it stays on when running, that's a wiring issue.

Why have you made this change?
 

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Could be a bad diode
 

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Basically, that light tells you the alternator is charging. It will stay on if the key is on but the car not running. It should go off after the car starts. If not, then there is an issue with the regulator or charging circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Basically, that light tells you the alternator is charging. It will stay on if the key is on but the car not running. It should go off after the car starts. If not, then there is an issue with the regulator or charging circuit.
Will is stay on without the key in the ignition? But everything else wired?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don’t understand. Here’s how I wired it. Back of the alternator red to hot with fuse, A to hot at the ignition switch, S to the back of the Alt and I to the ALT light, Then the alt light connects to the coil and the brown wire ignition from the switch which are spliced to the ACC on the key. Is the green wire behind the alt giving constant juice?
I have a 3g
 

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A to the hot side of the solenoid, or to where the red is on the alt.
S to the alt stator terminal.
I to the green/red, that used to go to the I terminal at the old regulator plug. Which comes from the alt light.

The green/red from the alt light doesn't go to the coil wire, that is red/green. Red/green should be fed by run position on the ignition switch, not ACC, via the pink resistor wire if you still have a points ignition system
The green/red is fed by the run position before the resistor wire
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Any reason why the "I" from the ignition solenoid gets hot when I connect the battery? Does it have anything to do with the Mini high torque starter wiring?
 

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The I terminal on the solenoid should only become hot with the key in the start position. How did you wire the starter?
Post a pic of the solenoid connections
 

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Are the two large cables on the lug of the solenoid closest to the battery?
If they are, and with nothing plugged onto the I and S terminals, the I terminal is live, the solenoid is bad.
That would make the alt light come on.

But ... having the two large cables on the other lug, and hooking the starter signal lug to the wire that went to the S terminal on the original solenoid, would make the alt light come on as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Are the two large cables on the lug of the solenoid closest to the battery?
If they are, and with nothing plugged onto the I and S terminals, the I terminal is live, the solenoid is bad.
That would make the alt light come on.

But ... having the two large cables on the other lug, and hooking the starter signal lug to the wire that went to the S terminal on the original solenoid, would make the alt light come on as well.
"Are the two large cables on the lug of the solenoid closest to the battery?" I don't get this question. Sorry. I have the main power cable from the starter to the large lug that gets constant voltage, and the other smaller cable from the starter to the opposite battery lug. I think the solenoid is bad. Any good recommendation for replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Figure it out! I over tightened the bolt that gets constant power from the battery and in a way pushing to give juice to "I" I loosened the large Lug that gets constant power and the constant power went away from "I". I pushed it in and it gave it power again....I was going crazy pulling wires under the dash...
 

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Glad you got it worked out. Be sure to use a quality solenoid.
 
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