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I have a PowerMaster 140 amp one-wire alternator. Prior to me taking down the car, my alternator lamp would come on dimly. If I increased the engine RPMs, it would fade out. However, with additional loads, it would be brighter. Anyhow, magically (*G*) the problem was still there when I got the car back together. Last evening, I removed the alternator and disassembled it. Time for some serious surfing. Found out that the diode Trio was bad on one leg. I also repacked the rear bearing (needle style). I picked up a new diode trio (0.98, literally) a spare and a new regulator as well as a spare rear bearing, for a whopping $14.94. By the way, I got a self-exciting (I am not going there) regulator. It does not need a 12 volt source on the lamp terminal to operate.

Anyhow, I will know tonight if my repair fixed my alternator lamp and got rid of the whine on the radio. All symptoms point to that $0.98 diode trio (also verified with the service technician at the auto electric shop).


Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571478&a=12535662&p=46267978&Sequence=1.jpg
 

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Man - move over Midlife - Steve is quickly becoming the 'Electron Meister'. Good call, 15 bucks with spare parts to boot!

BTW - how'd that happen - reversed polarity on a jump start or sumpthin'?

Glenn Morgan: 66 GT V-Burgundy Fastback 351w+toploader+9 in. TracLoc. Started out as a rusted-out Chicago-area crusher. After sacrificing a solid 66 coupe for its sheetmetal sub-assemblies, I have one solid (and expensive) work in progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Absolutely no idea. I spoke with the technician at the parts place where I picked up the parts and he stated that some of the diode trios are junk. Well, since I am an electronics engineer, I laughed when the counter guy came walking up with the parts in his hand. No static safe bag! Here at my place of employment, we are taught that handling electronics (even diodes) can cause latent defects that shorten the life of a component. I was going to say something to him but that is why I bought two fo them. I will throw one of them in a static bag and store it in the glovebox with the fuses.


Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1571478&a=12535662&p=46267978&Sequence=1.jpg
 

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Not a problem with Steve taking over electrical problems. We'll always agree on a diagnosis, and that will shut the book for whoever questions us...right? Besides, my fingers are now worked to the bone answering Q's for the past 3 years, and they need a rest now and again.

http://clubs.hemmings.com/baymustang/platesmall.jpgLet me check your shorts! My multimeter is just a-waiting! Formerly known as Midlife in the old VMF.
King of the Old Farts *struts*
 

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I'd bet you are far from off the hook Mr. J.

However, it is good to know that we'll now have 2 sources from whom we can get our shorts (or diodes, or relays, or whatever those little thingamajigs with the colored stripes are) checked!

This forum is an incredible 'font' of knowledge and it looks like the resources for electrical help have just grown.

Glenn Morgan: 66 GT V-Burgundy Fastback 351w+toploader+9 in. TracLoc. Started out as a rusted-out Chicago-area crusher. After sacrificing a solid 66 coupe for its sheetmetal sub-assemblies, I have one solid (and expensive) work in progress!
 
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