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Aluminum heads 289

15012 Views 37 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  kenash
I am buying a recently rebuilt 289 bored .30 over, mild comp cam, comp stock style roller rockers and I'm assuming stock style pistons. I want to swap the existing heads on them with aluminum. I know nothing about the specs on cylinder heads and what can be run with what. Not trying to get crazy but I want to upgrade. Any help would be appreciated.
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The biggest problem is not knowing what pistons you have..You will want to keep the compression up with aluminium heads to get the maximum benefit out of them..You may also need to flycut your pistons for bigger valves depending on the exact head...My advice would be to remove your existing heads and see what you have and then decide on a head choice from there..
Did you think about having your current heads ported?

That is what I did to mine and am very happy with it.
I have read about AFR heads on here. This is going to be a cruising car....no track time. I will have to remove the heads that are on there and look at the pistons. Just assuming they are completely stock (if there is such a thing as a "stock style" piston) would those AFR 165 heads work well?
I have read about AFR heads on here. This is going to be a cruising car....no track time. I will have to remove the heads that are on there and look at the pistons. Just assuming they are completely stock (if there is such a thing as a "stock style" piston) would those AFR 165 heads work well?
Hi,
After the decision is made as to what you expect from your engine, (you have) the next most important purchase are heads. AFR 165 heads are a good choice for a street cruiser. But, to get the most out of them, you need to do the math to determine what your CR will be. The 289 heads have smallish chambers somewhere around 54-56 CCs, if memory serves. To keep your CR in the range of 9.0 to 9.5'ish, you'll need to, most likely have the AFRs shaved, especially, if you retain your stock pistons. There are numerous calculators for determining CR. Also, you'll need to make sure your PR Geo (push rod geometry) is correct, as well. Keep in mind, you want to build for torque, not so much, HP. HP will be there, but, "torque" is what you want to to feel in your butt on the street. Do the research, heads affect more than you may think. Also, you'll most likely have to re-tune your carb and should be running a dual plane intake.
Good luck and Happy Trails!
(BTW , nice looking ride you have there)
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Did you think about having your current heads ported?

That is what I did to mine and am very happy with it.
With all due respect to AFR's fine product, you can get most of that improvement without spending nearly two grand.

I did this to my 289 High Performance, and it ran smoother, got better mileage, and felt like I put a more powerful cam in it:

289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching
+1 on 22's recommendation. I spent a little over $1k to have my stock HiPo heads CNC ported by powerheads in CA and the results were absolutely awesome. No dyno sheets yet, as I am still reassembling the rest of the car, but I believe the FWHP to be around 350-360 with just a solid cam upgrade, long tube headers, and the porting miracle that they performed on my stock irons.

I prefer the looks of the original metal on th engine and believe that not enough people realize the power that can be had from original heads if just prepped right.
+1 on 22's recommendation. I spent a little over $1k to have my stock HiPo heads CNC ported by powerheads in CA and the results were absolutely awesome. No dyno sheets yet, as I am still reassembling the rest of the car, but I believe the FWHP to be around 350-360 with just a solid cam upgrade, long tube headers, and the porting miracle that they performed on my stock irons.

I prefer the looks of the original metal on th engine and believe that not enough people realize the power that can be had from original heads if just prepped right.
I have owned power heads and they do a great job of making good useable power. but for a little more money you can buy a name brand aluminum head that will out flow fully ported stock castings. Just depends on what your goals are.
I have owned power heads and they do a great job of making good useable power. but for a little more money you can buy a name brand aluminum head that will out flow fully ported stock castings. Just depends on what your goals are.
It's all in the mix- Goal, budget, ability. The only numbers I have seen on this, a fellow near here did exactly as described in my link. His level of ability- He'd never had an engine apart. He saw me doing the job, and brought me one of his heads. I did one of his exhaust ports, and he went home, borrowed a die grinder, and did the other seven. When assembled, using a C9OZ-6250-C hydraulic cam, it turned 323.5 hp @ 5300 on the engine dyno.

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Thanks for the compliment kenash!

I really like the look of aluminum heads. It is more for show because it will never see a track or drag strip anytime. A nice bump in HP for cruising would be nice though. I know the engine was rebuilt with all stock components. I looked at summit racing and all I could find was Sealed Power brand kits. Their pistons look like the ones attached. I have attached a pic of the engine too.

If it matters, I am planning on running on an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake with shorty headers. If need be I can change the Comp roller rockers that are on there now.

Long story short.....I want simple aluminum heads that look good and require no extra machine work with my stock internals and Ebrock intake, etc.

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What about edelbrock e street heads they are under $1,000
What about edelbrock e street heads they are under $1,000
Before you buy those do some research. I have heard they use poor quality parts.
I did look at those but wasn't for sure about them. Any other thoughts? Those AFR 165 heads claim they fit with no mods but they are pricey.
I've also heard that those Edelbrock heads won't work on stock pistons, but don't quote me on that...
I have been researching the AFR 1472 165cc heads and the AFR 1402 165 cc heads. Both say they will fit all stock components with no other modifications. Looks like the combustion chamber size is a bit bigger on the 1472...60 cc compared to 58 cc. The only other difference I saw was the exhaust port location was raised on the 1472 and standard on the 1402.

Airflow Research (AFR) 1402 - AFR 165cc SBF Outlaw Street Heads - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Airflow Research (AFR) 1472 - AFR 165cc SBF Outlaw Street Heads - Overview - SummitRacing.com

As mentioned above, my planned setup with Ebrock Performer RPM intake and shorty headers.....does everyone think these heads will be good with no mods?
Thanks for the compliment kenash!

I really like the look of aluminum heads. It is more for show because it will never see a track or drag strip anytime. A nice bump in HP for cruising would be nice though. I know the engine was rebuilt with all stock components. I looked at summit racing and all I could find was Sealed Power brand kits. Their pistons look like the ones attached. I have attached a pic of the engine too.

If it matters, I am planning on running on an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake with shorty headers. If need be I can change the Comp roller rockers that are on there now.

Long story short.....I want simple aluminum heads that look good and require no extra machine work with my stock internals and Ebrock intake, etc.

Hi
If going for new pistons, might want to consider Probe's dual relief. If you ever use TWs, you'll be glad you did.

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If it was me, i would go with the AFR 165 with the 58cc chamber...you could mill them some to get the CR back up if needed....

You need to calculate your compression ratio and your chamber squish....to do this you need to know your deck height, your piston volumn, your head gasket thickness and your head chamber volumn....once all these are known you can calculate your CR... on a street motor if you are in the 9.5:1 area you will be good on pump gas...

You will not want anything larger than those 58cc heads on a 289, you will lose too much compression with larger heads...I ended up putting a 302 rotating assembly in my 289 block and zero decked the block and milled thes heads just for this reason... :)
Tom
You could get away with running Trick Flow 170cc Twisted Wedge heads if you are running a cam smaller then .520" lift and 224* of duration and it sounds like you are running something much smaller then that. The problem being, TW heads use an altered valve location that rotates the intake valve towards the center of the cylinder. A better design then inline heads but can cause some issues with valve reliefs set up for inline valves. Using the above mentioned guidelines you shouldnt have any issues with clearance.

170cc TW heads will run circles around AFR 165's for less money and better components. They also give you the ability to port them much larger then their current size (Up to 205cc's which is comparable to 225cc's for an inline head like AFR) which you cant do with the AFR heads if you end up stroking the engine in the future or want to put the heads on another build. They also have alot of deck material so that they can be milled down a bunch to decrease the combustion chamber size to bring up your compression ratio.

As others have said you need to find out what pistons you have and how far they are in the hole so you can calculate a compression ratio. If you go with an aftermarket head with a much larger combustion chamber alot of the performance increase will be negated with a lower compression ratio.
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Someone mentioned Powerheads. They have these G Force heads for $1095 a pair. Has anyone used these? They aren't those dreaded Flo Tek or Procomp heads are they?

Power Heads - Performance Engineering
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