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Discussion Starter #1
Ok. sorry if this has been posted before. My search did not turn up the info I was looking for.

My current radiator (Hot Rod Air - "Desert" model) is leaking again. I have had this unit for 9 years or so and it works great - except for the leaking. For what it costs to try and repair this unit again, I am looking for an aluminum replacement. I already have the shroud/fan that I will re-use. Since I have a 5.0 conversion, I am looking for a unit with the lower on the drivers side. I have a separate tranny cooler mounted in front of my current radiator and as a second question: Is the cooling more efficient as part of the radiator or like I currently have it?
I have searched and found there are many choices out there. I am here to find out what youall have tried and like/dislike. Let the opinions fly. :pirate:
 

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I have a Mustang Steve radiator in The 66.
Upgraded from the 17 inch to the 20 inch wide one for better cooling.
Have an electric fan 2500cfm
Radiator overflow/recover tank
The 66 never gets more than 2/3 on the temp scale now even when idling on a hot day.

Good Luck and Be Safe
Ron
 

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I purchased a Griffin aluminum radiator, but in hindsight, I think I would purchase something less expensive. Sure it's a well made radiator, but I could have gotten something very comparable at 1/2 the cost.

Here's a nice complete setup with dual electric fans for about $350 less than what I spent on my entire setup.

eBay Link
 

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I think the radiator area on the'64-'66 is kind of small. I'd opt to open up the core, like has been suggested above, and go at least 24" wide core. Afco makes a nice universal cross flow that others have had great luck with (I have not personally tried this).
An ancilliary advantage is, moving the radiator forward, gives more room to get air out of the engine compartment. which also increases cooling efficiency by reducing back pressure.
The down side to this mod is it weakens the structure of the core support, and allows a *bit* more flex of the front frame rails (this could be fixed with a bit of unobtrusive gusseting though).

I welded in a '67 support, and installed a '68 Big Block Griffin radiator. Looks good, but I doubt it is as efficient as the Afco unit. There is some information about this mod on the web site in the signature below.
 

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Well, I guess I'll have the lone opposing opinion
on this one. I was really excited when I got my
over $400 Fluidyne aluminum radiator back around
2003. Truth be told, it didn't cool better than
the 4 row copper/brass unit I had before. I'd
get the car on the track and after about two laps,
the gauge would be about 3/4, where it would
stay. I replaced it with another 4 row copper/
brass one, and everything went back to "normal."
(needle usually sits at 1/4 gauge under track
conditions)
If I had changed the water pump speed by changing
the pulley ratio, I'm sure I might have gotten
different results. Maybe some experimentation
with thermostats- seemed like the water needed
a different amount of time inside the aluminum
core- I just didn't want to mess with it.
Fortunately I got every dime back out of the
aluminum job after I put it up for sale on Ebay.
I was really not impressed......
 

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I have a Fluiddyne unit, and I dislike it, but for a different reason. I got a two core unit and it's way thick (the cores are 1 1/2" each). For a while there I didn't have a fan installed (don't ask) and it would never heat in stop and go SoCal traffic. You had to turn the AC off if you were under 15mph tho....

The Visteon aluminum radiator in my Jeep is way better than the coppper one I replaced, half as thick, and takes a gallon less coolant.
 

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I have a Griffin 24 X 19 generic fan from Summit (~$200). I opened up the support a little bit and used the Summit brackets to make a cradle for it. It works great with my setup. You can put your hand on the right side (well, you can't keep it there long!) and it's HOT, but on the left side it is cool.

I have a Taurus fan and 180 deg thermostat. The car never gets over 195, even in 100 deg heat in crawling Branson, MO traffic. On the highway, it actually runs a little too cool - about 165. I followed Sean Hyland's advice and put a 1/8" vent hole in my thermostat and it apparently flows just enough to keep the motor a little too cool. (Lesson: don't listen to experts!)

NOTE: Some guys have used the Taurus fan and others say it won't fit, so don't go out and buy one based on my setup. But the radiator works great.

Some pics on this page: Plain Jane
 

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My stang was running hot, so I bought a Northern aluminum radiator from Summit. It looked awful, so I returned it and got another one. I went through 5 of these things before I gave up. I ended up buying a 4 row copper-brass radiator, and the car never runs hot anymore. My engine is mild, so your results may vary. So I guess my only point is that I wouldn't recommend the Northern radiator. If you're going to buy an aluminum radiator, you want it to look good, right? You usually get what you pay for, so if I was going to do the aluminum thing, I'd go for a higher quality unit than that. If a standard radiator will do the job, I'd use that.
 

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I recently installed a PWR Aluminum radiator specific for 65 / 66 Mustangs , Works Great ! Well made good looking, It has not gone over 180 yet but I haven't had it out on a real hot day but I'm sure it will be fine......
 

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Jim said:
My stang was running hot, so I bought a Northern aluminum radiator from Summit. It looked awful, so I returned it and got another one. I went through 5 of these things before I gave up. I ended up buying a 4 row copper-brass radiator, and the car never runs hot anymore. My engine is mild, so your results may vary. So I guess my only point is that I wouldn't recommend the Northern radiator. If you're going to buy an aluminum radiator, you want it to look good, right? You usually get what you pay for, so if I was going to do the aluminum thing, I'd go for a higher quality unit than that. If a standard radiator will do the job, I'd use that.
I bought a northern universal fit and it has worked awesome..No problems at all and it fits great..
 

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I have a Fluidyne in my 66 with a Ford 302/340 crate engine, same setup as you have for hoses. Works great. Also bought an alum rad with 1" tubes for my 65 289 on ebay for $165 it too works great and is very good quality for that money. Just make sure the tubes are at least an inch...more important than 3 or 4 cores.
 

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Red_66Fastback said:
Northern aluminum direct replacement for 65/66 and a SPAL 16" 2350 CFM electric fan do the trick for my car. Made a huge difference. For more details and pics here is a writeup I did on my setup:

http://www.fastbackmustang.com/Projects/CoolingSystemUpgrade.aspx
That is what I have hooked to a Spal PWM controller. I did cut off and re-weld the radiator mounting brackets so I could inset the rad into the stock rad support and give me more fan clearance.
 

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frdnut said:
Jim said:
My stang was running hot, so I bought a Northern aluminum radiator from Summit. It looked awful, so I returned it and got another one. I went through 5 of these things before I gave up. I ended up buying a 4 row copper-brass radiator, and the car never runs hot anymore. My engine is mild, so your results may vary. So I guess my only point is that I wouldn't recommend the Northern radiator. If you're going to buy an aluminum radiator, you want it to look good, right? You usually get what you pay for, so if I was going to do the aluminum thing, I'd go for a higher quality unit than that. If a standard radiator will do the job, I'd use that.
I bought a northern universal fit and it has worked awesome..No problems at all and it fits great..

I didn't say they didn't work, just that the five I bought were cosmetically flawed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The price range for direct replacement aluminum radiator for 65/66 is so varied. Not counting the shroud and fan kits that go with them.

$200 is the lowest price I have come across and $650 is the highest. Can they really be that much of a difference? Yes,there are dual circulating and triple circulation radiators as well as the differences in core size, but really that much price difference? IS it a quality issue?

I have not quite decided which way to go but Mustang Steves is looking pretty good for my current needs.
 

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For those of us looking for an MS65-V8AT-R radiator, they are currently sold out. However, I inquired when they might get more and he said mid august. Just thought I would pass this along. This looks like the radiator Ill use as soon as I can get one.
66Restomod said:
Here is the link for the Mustang Steve radiator;
http://www.mustangsteve.com/aluminumradiators.html
$199 and really well made. Perfect welds and construction


http://www.mustangsteve.com/340-2AL.jpg
 

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Frank65 said:
That looks just like mine! It's amazing how close the fan motor is to the pump snout!
That pic was taken with the factory style 3 row radiator. Once I switched to the Northern Aluminum one I had a ton more clearance.
 
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