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Roller block = late 80s/1990s block correct? Is that what he has/had? Asking because I thought 1960鈥檚 block were a little stronger correct? Asking for a friend...馃槵
From what I've read ( and Woody from Fordstrokers ) the 60's blocks don't help, because they still have thing main bearing webs just like the roller blocks. The old Ford Performance B50 blocks are better though, if you can find one.
 

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Roller block = late 80s/1990s block correct? Is that what he has/had? Asking because I thought 1960鈥檚 block were a little stronger correct? Asking for a friend...馃槵
From what I've read ( and Woody from Fordstrokers ) the 60's blocks don't help, because they still have thing main bearing webs just like the roller blocks. The old Ford Performance B50 blocks are better though, if you can find one.
I've heard similar info. The older Mexican blocks have thicker main caps and higher nickel content which may help, but they're 2-piece rear mains and almost every single stroker crank on the market uses a 1 piece main crank.
 

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Just toss the same type block in.

It lasted 20 years. So just pencil in the year AC20 (20 years after Corona) that he needs to start looking for a new block.
 

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@wilit if he got 30K miles out of a 1980s-90s stock roller block built to 347 specs with almost 500 h.p. then he took care and didn鈥檛 push it too hard all the time.

Of all the V8 blocks a roller 302 is probably the least stout of the bunch. I鈥檝e got a pre-roller 302 block (supposedly from a police car but that doesn鈥檛 really matter) and I鈥檓 debating on holding it for a future project bc I鈥檒l only do a basic engine build with it.

@1966notch a 347 ideally should use a Dart, Boss, or Mexican block.

We just finished building my Mexican block based 347 stroker. The engine builder continually was commenting on how the block was thicker and reinforced. He even had to mill the deck height back slightly to get it in 8.2 spec - that鈥檚 thick!

And @stephen_wilson we machined the back of the block to use a single piece rear main seal.

If $ is no object, go Dart or Boss. But with the $ saved on a Mexican block you can cover a lot of the internals or put the $ towards upgrading to forged internals.
 

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The 5.0 hyd roller blocks are THE worst as far as strength! SO much weight was removed in the casting it's a wonder they survive at 300 hp.
Mexican blocks are NOT high nickle. I have seen the original blueprint and material callout. They are "regular" grey iron. The nickle myth started here in California when one local Ford used parts seller maid the claim by saying they were a "different" alloy. That morphed into nickle alloy somehow. Years ago I had a friend in Ford engineering look at the blueprint ( which calls out the material) and it was grey iron , not nodular ( nickle) . Pre 1980(ish) blocks still have the "normal" webbing. One extra note here. Adding things like "lifter valley braces" and main stud girdles ADD allot of cost and do NOT save the block from cracking , they simply hold it together after it cracks apart. Save the money and buy/use a better block to start with.
 
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