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My amp meter seems always to be well into the "charge" range even though my battery is new and charged. It moves roughly with the engine speed but never goes to the neutral or "discharge" area on the gauge. I'm assuming that I have a stuck voltage regulator. Is there a simple test for this?
 

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On a related note, my amp meter never seems to move at all. Turning the lights on with the engine off moves the needle into Discharge by the smallest of perceptible amounts. How much SHOULD I see it move?
 

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Mine does the same thing - Now! After I had my Alt replaced - it's only a 60 amp, I'm told I needed at least a 65 amp. What's your Alt amp? There is some good info in the search....... hope this helps...
 

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Check the voltage across your battery with the engine running. You should see something in the 13.5 to 14.5 VDC range.
 

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ONLY a 60A alt? The stock alternator is 42A. That's what I have.
 

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summing up these replies you come up with:
1. ammeters in these cars are relative indicators and if they always read similiar values you are probably ok
2. with voltmeter check for 13.5 to 14.5 Vs with engine running you are charging battery prooperly - you won't boil it by too much chaging current and it is charging to keep battery charged.
3. if it changes from item 1 indications smell a problem and investigate.
 

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The best test to determine if the ammeter works is this: disconnect the battery, then remove the instrument cluster. Attach a D-cell battery to the ammeter, and it should deflect to full one side or another.

The ammeter works on the difference of resistance of two circuit paths, largely dependent upon the thickness of the wire, length of wire, and corrosion at the contacts. With new wiring, it should deflect a good needle's width when you open the door and the courtesy lights come on, or if you hit the brake lights (both with the engine off).

For the center position, I've noticed that the back bezel of the gauge can be twisted one way or another, so that the nominal position of the needle (engine off, all accessories off) may be one to two needle width's off from the center line. You can remove the actual gauge and twist the bezel. The bezel also moves fore/aft relative to the cluster panel, adjusting the amount of light (at night) into the gauge area.

Hope this helps...
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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A D-Cell! That simple? I learn something new here everyday. Man, I can't to get out the garage and try out my new trick. Thanks, Midlife.
Now, where's that flashlight? I got at least 4 ammeters out there that "need" testing.
 
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