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I finally got a chance to replace the starter today. Turns out the starter was fine, just a short in the ground wire that goes from the batt. to the engine block. I never had a problem with that before, so I don't understand why it would start right after the engine went pop. When I removed the starter I noticed I could turn the flywheel quite a ways with my fingers (without pushing hard). After a ways it became harder to push but I could still move it with my hand. Well, I replaced the starter and fixed the short, and now, instead of the "click" like the starter wasn't getting enough juice (which it wasn't), I get the whine of the starter. I removed the dust cover from the bottom of the tranny, and sure enough, the flywheel is turning but the engine isn't even trying to turn over. It is as though the flywheel and crankshaft have somehow become disengaged, or the crankshaft may have broken near where it joins the flywheel. When I turn the fan, I can make the flywheel turn. What do you guys think? If the crankshaft broke close to the front of the car, I'd get some engine sounds because the cylinders between the break and the flywheel would try to turn over, right? Kind of makes me wonder if my oil leak (apparently the rear main seal), the clicking noises, and now this are all related. Any suggestions?

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 

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Edited to remove my blind stupidity....didn't see the part about the fan turning the flywheel....I trust the reverse is true as well?

I'd still pull the oil pan and timing cover....Bill's likely right on....if you did break the chain or lose it, pistons and valves may have gotten together....hope that didn't happen...

Yuk!

Pat
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1570936&a=11937754&p=42910787.jpg<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by camachinist on 03/23/01 08:59 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
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Is the torque converter bolted tight to the flex plate? I've seen the bolts come loose before and make a heck of a rattling noise. They may have worked their way out completely, this would explain the pop, and sudden loss of transmission.

68 restomod coupe
69 Mach1
67 coupe Son's
 

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The fan is connected to the cam and the flywheel is connected to the crank, right? So if turning the flywheel makes the fan turn, doesn't the timing chain have to join the two assemblies?


Coppertone's current condition:
http://www.knology.net/~dorner/images/doorsonright.jpg
 
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Fan is on the water pump, water pump driven by belt from the crank.
The only thing external on the motor driven by the cam is the fuel pump and the distributor.

Greg B
 
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The starter turns the flywheel and the crank does not turn?
Turning the motor by the fan causes the crank to turn and in turn the flywheel turns?
C4 auto?
My guess if the above are true is the flexplate has sheared around the mounting flange and that is why you have no connection.
I have never broken a 289 crank, thrown a couple of rods but never snapped a crank but anything is possible.

Greg B
 

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I agree with supercj. I had a friend with a 69 CJ and he sheared the flex plate around the bolts on the crank. It was a loud pop when it happened and the car would not move. The plate turned just as you describe with the starter.
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hmm... that definately sounds easier to fix than a broken crankshaft. The teeth on the flywheel (the ones I saw) all looked good but there was some wear on the edges of the teeth (I assume this is normal?). I forgot to mention in my earlier post that there were a few metal shavings in the starter cavity. Does this support your theory? How would I go about checking to see if this is what happened (what to remove and in what order)? Thanks :)

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by sbryant on 03/23/01 10:19 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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I think you're gonna have to separate the engine from the tranny enough to see the flywheel. You should be able to take the motor mounts loose and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts. Support the tranny from underneath. Use an engine hoist to barely lift the engine off the mounts. The engine and tranny will start to separate. You should be able to see the flywheel bolts from under the car.


Coppertone's current condition:
http://www.knology.net/~dorner/images/doorsonright.jpg
 

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Easiest way to find if the cam is not moving is to take off the distributor cap, turn the engine over and see if the rotor moves, If the rotor doesn't move you either broke the timing belt or chain or stripped a dist gear. Good luck!

Gene J

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66 Coupe/66 Convert/84 GT Turbo/96 coupe

Gene's cars
 

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I'll place my bet on the flex plate being either broken, or the bolts holding it to the crank being broken off.

I've had a GM product where the flex plate cracked from hole to hole until it finally cracked all the way around. Sounds exactly like what you described.

Dang! Just when I got used to being "strange", I became a "newbie". Now I'm a "tire kicker"....thump, thump.....he he
 

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Hi, if you jack up the car and support it good you should be able to look in to this area with a flashlight or droplight. just pull the dust cover offbottom front side of bell housing) and look up in there with the light you should be able to see the crankshaft and flex plate connection if it is all shiney it is broken. you will know . John

Opal frost pearl metallic 67 coupe http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/febef75b01.JPG
also have a 95 opal frost pearl G/T BOSS edition convertible belongs to swmbo
 
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