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Discussion Starter #1
Well as I posted before about my ignition problems the situation just got even stranger today. I switched out the points with brand new ones from the auto parts store and sure enough I now have a 12+volts coming from every line to and from the coil/distributor. However when we go to fire it still no fire. The cap and rotor are brand new and fine, they are connecting up and everything there is good. Next we jumped from the solenoid across to the coil and sure as hell she started to fire up, but would start and then sputter out very quickly like it was starved for fuel/power. I had plenty of fuel going into the carb so I dont think thats the problem. Now my question is why do I have to jump from the solenoid to the coil. Bad resistor or bad ignition switch maybe? Do I really even need to use the resistor? And if the car isnt starting up and starts to sputter whats the deal there, lack of power or is something else a miss in my car (distributor 180 off, etc)?
 

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I now have a 12+volts coming from every line to and from the coil/distributor
I don't understand. From your last post, it appeared that you have a Pertronix Ignitor, and now you put the points back in. With the Ignitor, you'll have 3 wires going to the coil ... one from the ignition to the + post, the red from the distributor to + post, and the black from the distributor to the - post. Only ONE of them will have voltage on it, and that will be the one from the ignition swwitch. It will have 12v with the key in "START" and ~7v with the key in "ON". This is assumming your resistor wire has not bee removed, in which case it would have 12v in both positions.

With the points, you'll only have TWO wires going to the coil. The same wire from the ignition, and the black one from the distributor to the "-" side of the coil. Again ... ONLY the ignition one will have any voltage.

Next we jumped from the solenoid across to the coil and sure as hell she started to fire up, but would start and then sputter out very quickly like it was starved for fuel/power.
You jumped from WHICH post of the solenoid? There's 4 posts, and it will be much easier just to type an answer based on what you did.


And if the car isnt starting up and starts to sputter whats the deal there, lack of power or is something else a miss in my car (distributor 180 off, etc)?
The car won't even come CLOSE to starting if the distributor is out 180 degrees. About all you'll get is some backfire with an occasional flame ball. That's not to say the timing is not off, but if it will run, it's very close. I'd say it's either timing or a fuel delivery problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No pertronix ignitor on this car, all dual points the enitre time. We jumped it from the second post, starting from the side closest to the front of the car. Its the first of the smaller two in the center of the solenoid. My thought on the starting issue is timing as well but we dont have a timing light until tommarrow when my buddy comes back in town. Ill see about trying to determine if its a fuel issue or not tonite but since it is kicking from what johnpro said the distributor is in correctly.
 

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OK, hold up a minute. Start at the plugs for us, any spark there? If not, then pull the coil wire out of the top center of the distributor cap and place it near the intake manifold and check for spark while cranking. If no spark out of the coil, then with the key on, what are the voltages on the coil + & - terminals?
 

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the top of the coil (+ term) will have either 12 Vs or 7Vs depending on whether points are closed or open. with points open you have no voltage divider action thru coil and ballast resistor and you will see 12 Vs. with points closed you will have 7 to 9 Vs because you get voltage divider action of coil and ballast resistor. if all you get is 12 Vs all the time you are missing ground on points in distributor.
on solenoid sounds like you have "I" and "S" terminals reversed. the "I" term supplies 12 Vs to coil only when engine is cranking in START position of ign key - after releasing ign key to RUN it will go to 7 Vs or so . on the "S" term you get 12 Vs when cranking with ign key in "START" position and no Vs after releasing the ign key to RUN. the "I" term is small one back towards firewall with a brown wire on it. the "S" term is small one towards radiator. PM me if questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, in response to Rickster. We have spark from the coil wire thats not a problem however we were having a problem with a very faint spark or no spark whatsoever from the plug wires. The coil reads 12.38 volts on both sides (both the + and - sides of the coil) with the key in the 'on' position.
 

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Ok, in response to Rickster. We have spark from the coil wire thats not a problem however we were having a problem with a very faint spark or no spark whatsoever from the plug wires. The coil reads 12.38 volts on both sides (both the + and - sides of the coil) with the key in the 'on' position.
The negative side of the coil is nearly at ground, so seeing 12V there means that the dizzy components inside are not properly grounded. I'd suspect the ground wire from your points are bad or your condensor is fried. Probably the first, as it occurs both with the Petronix and with points. The only kicker is that if I am correct, you shouldn't get a spark out of the coil wire, except once (when the whole system gets grounded by a single spark). Do you get repeatable sparks using just the coil wire?
 

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This may sound stupid but I've seen it happen. Are the spark plug terminal ends plugged securely into the distributor cap. Sometimes the boots appear to be in place but the actual brass terminal pulls out of the cap. Just something to check.
 

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Try a new distributor. Mine went bad in my mustang about 2 weeks ago. I tried everything from new plugs, wires, coil, points and condensor and still had no fire. I put in a new distributor and boom, problem solved.
 

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Just an FYI. If you are jumping the coil to the small post closest to the front of the car, it will only have 12V when
the key is turned to start. Jump it directly to the battery lug and see if it starts. If it does, there is a problem with the red resistor wire going to
the coil or the ignition switch. As has been said, the red wire should have 12V when cranking the motor and
7V (+/-) in the run position. BTW, did you change the condensor along with the points? If you didn't, change it.
 
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