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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!!
As the title says, I´m in the journey of a 5.0 swap on my 1966 mustang coupe. Right now, I´m gathering parts for the build. My donor engine comes from a 97 Explorer. Going to the carb route, T5 and 9" rear end.

I have read a lot about the subject, but still have some doubts here and there... But overall, I saw that is a pretty straight forward swap.

Oh, forgot to mention! beside a 5.0 swap, its also a I6 to V8 swap, so that adds a little flavor to the job!

I will post updates of the progress/problems of the swap. I will be asking you some questions along the journey, and hope this gives me the chance to learn from your expertice in the subject, and that this thread will be a guide for someone else that wants to perform this swap!

Greetings from Uruguay!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi all. Well not too much to report at the moment, just removed the cylinder heads and found that at some point, some water entered the 1&2 cylinders, so next is a complete disassembly and send to the machine shop to have their opinion!
About the parts list of needed for the swap, I already have the oil pan and pickup (NPD), hei distribuitor (evilbay), valve covers (also evil bay) and polyurethane engine mounts (used almost new, gift) I'm planning to use the explorer alt and starter motor, just don't know if is a 50oz 164 tooth flywheel, thats also works with a t5.. and still don't know what to do about the front accessories, if keeping the explorer timing cover and wp and running serpentine, adding an idler pulley, and use electric fuel pump, or changing to mechanical fuel pump and changint the front setup, what do you think? About the cam, I'm planning to keep the original explorer cam, I don't plan on drag racing the car, just a cruiser with a little spice, but nothing crazy! What do you think about this cam?
About intake, I'm checking the weiand 8124, what's the difference between this and the stealth?

Thanks all!! Sorry for all the questions, these are at first glance, the doubts I have. I'll let you know how I go with the machine shop!

Greetings from Uruguay!!
 
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You just need a flywheel from/for a 5.0 Mustang, easy to find. That cam is completely docile. If you want a slightly upgraded engine, change the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
You just need a flywheel from/for a 5.0 Mustang, easy to find. That cam is completely docile. If you want a slightly upgraded engine, change the cam.
Hi!
Thanks for you reply! I might search for one, on evilbay. Should I search for a 5.0 50 Oz? or for some other feature? The 5.0 mustang flywheel, is a 164 tooth one? I ask this because I want to use the original starter, and the original flex plate have 164 tooth.. I still have to ID what T5 I have, I know that is a WC, but came with 3 ID tags in one box... By the build date, I link the trans to one of the tags, that places it as a 95ish V6 mustang T5.. I read that there are different imput shaft lenght, but this can be an issue with using the vintage bellhousing, right?

The late model OEM bellhousings, are all the same? I´m going to use clutch cable.

About the cam, well see... at first glance, as I was not planning to dissasembly the lower part of the engine, I was going to use the explorer cam for a while, save some cash and then upgrade it. Now that I have to tore down the block, maby will go for a "happier" cam, but nothing too crazy... Let´s see, whats the veredict of the machine shop. Today I´m going to put the engine on a stand, and start the dissasembly. Will post some pictures of the process!!!!
 

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Juan, I sent you a email before. Here's my GT40P install. Yes, the 95 V6 T5 or even the 5.0 T5 from 95 will have a longer input shaft. Some people have used the V6 bellhousing. the V6 uses a 164 tooth 11" flywheel while the 5.0 uses a smaller 157 tooth flywheel. Probably to quell vibration. You will find the clutch fork at least on the V6 is clocked a lot lower FYI. You could always just swap out the input shaft too. Despite what the charts say, the V6 T5 is rated at 300 ftlbs,, the same as the 5.0 T5, not 265 ftlbs, I got this info first hand from a Tremec engineer. I believe the differences is the V6 has a slightly lower 5th gear and I think reverse is slightly different as well.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1012953-got-my-gt40p-up-running-my-66-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Juan, I sent you a email before. Here's my GT40P install. Yes, the 95 V6 T5 or even the 5.0 T5 from 95 will have a longer input shaft. Some people have used the V6 bellhousing. the V6 uses a 164 tooth 11" flywheel while the 5.0 uses a smaller 157 tooth flywheel. Probably to quell vibration. You will find the clutch fork at least on the V6 is clocked a lot lower FYI. You could always just swap out the input shaft too. Despite what the charts say, the V6 T5 is rated at 300 ftlbs,, the same as the 5.0 T5, not 265 ftlbs, I got this info first hand from a Tremec engineer. I believe the differences is the V6 has a slightly lower 5th gear and I think reverse is slightly different as well.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1012953-got-my-gt40p-up-running-my-66-a.html
Hi tom How are you? As I told you, you have done a great job on your engine. Infact, your work was the reason that makes me pull the trigger on my build. Thanks about the transmission data, sure will be asking some questions when I get there... I will post some pics of the T5 and tags I got,maby anyone can say wich one I have. Here in my country, we dont have a lot of info on these engines/trans, as there are not many around. Well, there is not much to report, being too busy at work and with another 66 i´m putting togheter for a friend. i have put the engine on the stand, and hoping to start dissasembly next week.
I have ordered a weiand stealth intake, complete with bolts/gaskets, next will be purchasing the parts for the front. Still dont know if go with V belt or multi belt.. I do want to use the Explorer alternator.

I´m attaching a couple "progress pics"..

Thanks for reading!!!
Greetings from Uruguay!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Santa arrived earlyer this year!!!!
Hope tomorrow finish dissasembly the engine, and monday take it to the machine shop!!!
Fingers crossed!!
Still have to buy the front stuff (timing cover/WP/pulleys/FP/etc) and flywheel/clutch/etc...
Greetings from uruguay!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi all!
Saturday was engine day!! I was able to make a complete dissasembly of the engine, and is on its way to the machine shop, as I wrote this.

I found no surprises during dissasembly, just normal wear.

I´m hoping that going with first bore size, will clean the n°1 and n°2 cylinders, the ones that had water at one time...

I also try the fitment of the bellhousing and flywheel of the other 5.0 that I´m working on, with the t5 that I´m going to use. I found no issues, so thats are the parts I need to order. I have purchased the timing cover, with fuel pump and dipstick provisions, so one piece less to finish the puzzle...

I´m not yet decided about the cam... What do you think guys/gals?? If I upgrade the cam, I must also upgrade the valve springs right??

About the rebuild kit, I should search for a Explorer Rebuild Kit, or just any 5.0 rebuild kit will do?? I ask this because of the hypereutectic pistons...

I´ll add a couple of pics of the tear down!!!
Sorry for the crappy cellphone pics!!

Thanks all!!!
Greetings!!!
 

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Juan, the stock GT40P springs are pretty weak. The cam is going to depend on what you want. While the stock cam is pretty mild, it's meant to get a heavy truck moving so it makes a lot of torque where you generally drive. For an everyday driver it would probably work pretty well. I have a Mustang cam in mine. the big difference is more intake duration and lift. I also have a set of Crane 1.72 roller rocker arms. These will give a little more lift and duration. over all it's a very nice set up. It makes really good power and idles great. No bad manners.

Here's where I bought my springs, I have the .540" springs https://www.alexsparts.com/categories/VALVE-SPRING-KITS/
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Juan, the stock GT40P springs are pretty weak. The cam is going to depend on what you want. While the stock cam is pretty mild, it's meant to get a heavy truck moving so it makes a lot of torque where you generally drive. For an everyday driver it would probably work pretty well. I have a Mustang cam in mine. the big difference is more intake duration and lift. I also have a set of Crane 1.72 roller rocker arms. These will give a little more lift and duration. over all it's a very nice set up. It makes really good power and idles great. No bad manners.

Here's where I bought my springs, I have the .540" springs https://www.alexsparts.com/categories/VALVE-SPRING-KITS/
Hi Tom!!
I havent decided yet what to do about cam... I was thinking for now leaving the existing cam and springs and later change them, mainly because the $$$ as I ended up dissasembly the whole engine (not planned), and need to spend there... But of course, I also think that is now the moment of put the final setup, as I have the engine all tored apart... Well see what my machine shop says, as maby there is no need for spending a lot of cash there, as the engine has minimal wear, just the damage of the water in the #1 and #2 cylinders, that is also minimal... Hope next week have news from them. I will also continue purchasing the missing parts, next will be the damper and flywheel, Whis this parts, the only one missing is going to be the carb.

I will report the machine shop news!!!

About the car, I´m waiting for the new hood I ordered a couple of month back, hope to receive it in this days.
Then I will take it to the body shop, to change the whole cowl assembly and adjust all the front sheet metal, with the new hood/cowl. Also the plan is to get the engine bay ready (stripped, repaired as needed and painted semi gloss black) as I want to put the engine on the car, when is ready.. Easy to say, let´s see how I go...

I´m adding a couple of pics of the car, as Is now.
I have this car since I was 18, I remove the 6 cylinders like 3 years ago to rebuild and well... one thing led to another and I ended up tore it apart... I´going to paint it red and putting black interior...

Thanks
Greetings from Uruguay!!!
 

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Respect the progress and efforts.:yoho:
If it were all together still the easy temp fix would be the 1.7 or better on rocker arms on the intakes=fake cam. Having once owned a '00 5.0 Exploder I feel it made power respectably, much how I would drive a 'Stang. No tach but I would have it scream up into the 80's with OD off when the pull would begin to fall off. Stock valve train is fine till you get close to the .500 lift anyway. All in all the cam should be done upon reassembly since it is apart but I understand a budget I could live with it stockish.

Was the water in the cylinders from a blown head gasket? If they need shaving get a free power bump in the compression ratio.

Porting GT40P Exhaust Port
 

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I agree with 1ofamillion+ said. With the engine apart it's a great time for a cam swap. On the other hand it's a added expense. The stock Explorer cam will work pretty well so don't feel to bad about using it. A used set of 1.72 rocker arms on the Explorer cam will wake it up a little more.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Respect the progress and efforts.:yoho:
If it were all together still the easy temp fix would be the 1.7 or better on rocker arms on the intakes=fake cam. Having once owned a '00 5.0 Exploder I feel it made power respectably, much how I would drive a 'Stang. No tach but I would have it scream up into the 80's with OD off when the pull would begin to fall off. Stock valve train is fine till you get close to the .500 lift anyway. All in all the cam should be done upon reassembly since it is apart but I understand a budget I could live with it stockish.

Was the water in the cylinders from a blown head gasket? If they need shaving get a free power bump in the compression ratio.

Porting GT40P Exhaust Port
Hi! thanks for your reply!!! Sorry to take so long to answer!!
Thats good to know, I was thinking about your exploder experience, that I can use the stock explorer cam at first glance and get the engine all assembled, as I have also to spend in the transmission/rear end/body/.... And off course I have std steering/suspension, I think talking about speeds of 80/85MPH its ok for the car I will initially have (only upgrades I have on suspension/steering/brakes are KYB shocks/poly bushings/front discs/lowered 1"). Off course, I always can do a cam swap later, after drive the car, if I think I need more power... and plan on extra upgrades, that should came with the power increase...
The water in the engine, I think entered from hydrowashing the engine at some point, after removed from the truck. The rest of the engine is in real good shape, so It was a shame to found this... I dont have yet the diagnosis from the machine shop, but at first glance he says maby will clean without going oversize... well see... This will be great, as I can use the original pistongs (OEM).
I will keep you guys informed, as soon I receive the veredict from the machine shop!!!
This week I received the timing cover and bolts and the timing pointer and just purchased the bellhousing & spacer plate for the T5, so.. a couple more to remove from the "to get" list.... Just need the carb/damper/pulleys/water pump/fuel pump/flywheel/gaskets/water and oil sensors/etc etc etc etc etc :shrug::pirate::pirate::pirate:

Greetings!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I agree with 1ofamillion+ said. With the engine apart it's a great time for a cam swap. On the other hand it's a added expense. The stock Explorer cam will work pretty well so don't feel to bad about using it. A used set of 1.72 rocker arms on the Explorer cam will wake it up a little more.
Hi Tom!!!
Thanks for your reply!! As I just said to 1ofamillion+, I´m thinking on using at first, the explorer cam, and after using the car, upgrade components as I see the need.. for speed... >:) !! If with this setup, I can reach speeds from 80+ I think I will be OK at first, and If I need more, I will need to think about upgrading other systems, so thats another chapter... that I can name "stage 2", when that time comes...
About the front accesories, I will take the route you took, and use the 60´s setup with the upgraded damper. With the help I get from your expertise, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!!! :grin2::grin2:

I will let you know as soon as I have news from the machine shop!!

Thanks!!!
Greetings!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi all!! Well, its been a long time since I update this thread... maybe I´m not so active at the forum but I do once a day check for updates!
About this build... this year I decided to pull the trigger and go full speed with the project.. the goal is to finish this year bodywork, paint and engine build... so its going to be a busy year!

Finally, the machine shop work was: cylinders were bored 0.20, crankshaft only cleaned so will go with standard bearings, cleaned surfaces, new cam bearings.

New ford racing flywheel, new powerforce damper, all balanced with crankshaft and new pistons.

Ford racing pulleys (V belt setup), holley 1850 carb, HEI ignition, weiand stealth intake, so nothing crazy here! My only missing parts are the temp and oil sender, thermostat, heater hose connection at intake and starter motor...

We also build an engine test stand so we can start the engine once a week while is not in the car, I will send some pictures when I have it all assembled.

Bodywork will start tomorrow, so a couple of days ago I have my own "barn find", as we remove the car from hybernation and move it to the shop (that we are also remodelling). We are replacing complete cowl, both quarter skins, outer wheelhouse, trunk floors, rear frames, A pillars...so lets see how it goes!!

I will keep you updated of any progress!!
 

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