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Discussion Starter #1
I've been working on this for a couple months now. I Did a lot of hunting and research on SVT sites and came up with my own ideas for upgrading the flaws on a budget.

Dave, of DVS, is one of our members and I don't know him personally but to my knowledge is the only company offering a simple kit to install a Cobra IRS in a Classic Ford. So, I have to give respect to a guy who took the time to measure and engineer something that would make life easier for the average Mustang Hot Modder. (I think I just coined that)

IRS install kit for vintage Mustangs

To keep things balanced, there's more than one way to skin a cat. Us enlisted guys on a very tight budget just can't afford engineers. So, we become reverse engineers.

This isn't my car but there a lot of pictures of how a guy did the swap in a Mercury Meteor.
Link1

And these guys have a lot of pics using the DVS kit
Link2

My exhaust was going to interfere with the lower control arms so I re-clocked the front cradle mounts to tuck it up under the car 2" more. I also cut 1/4" from the inner edges of the rear upper mounts to allow to slip outside of the frame rails instead of under them, bolted up 2" higher, and then reinforced everything.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500152_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500153_large.jpg

I also welded in steel sleeves into the frame rails so they wouldn't crush when I tightened the bolts.

Here I welded a plate to the IRS subframe and bolted through the frame rails.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500154_large.jpg

The way I mounted it I don't need the subframe bushings, its rigid.

Had a machinist make me an aluminum rear diff bushing
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500157_large.jpg

Here's my front diff bushing mod:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500161_large.jpg

So I didn't have to buy this:
diff bushing

I made this:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500158_large.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500159_large.jpg

based off of this:
http://www.billetflow.com/showiso.jpg

I modified the stock torque brace to bolt in with the diff bushings:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500160_large.jpg

based off this:
http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f/9178057/m5lp_0609_irs_07_z+irs_fox_body_mustang+forward_torque_brace.jpg

This is an earlier pic of the IRS mocked up too far forward. I test fit a 17x9 from a 2003 Cobra. I was planning for maybe 2" fender flares but looks like 1" will be perfect.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500151_large.jpg

Front pic teaser
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500166_large.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
mustangsurfer said:
Make sure you check out my links to the 65-66 owners issues and the links to lowering the cradle. Call if you get in a bind!

Dave
Actually, I got the idea from your website
Link
I made a quick homemade monstrosity of a jig and only did the front mounts. For the rear mounts, I cut 1/4" of the bushing tubes off on the inward sides allowing the rear frame rails to slide between the IRS rear mounts. Seen here in red circle. There's supposed to be a lip on the inner edge of that bushing tube.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/3822/2001/22053500170_large.jpg
I measured 2" higher from under the frame rail and that is where the top-most part of the rear mount sits. It was easier than making a jig for the rear mounts and keeping it all lined up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update:
I've swapped the 3.27s for 3.73s and installed a 31 spline Detroit locker and upgraded the half shafts. I'm going to run a diff cooler I pieced together with stuff laying around. Also, the factory rear tie rod assembly is weak and prone to bending so I came up with an improved design with my own bump steer kit. Instead of using coilovers which would be easier but cost more I'm keeping my vintage Konis in this setup and using the Cobra coils so I welded in an upper coil perch on the frame rail. Here's pics of what I've done lately.
To get the 17x9s in, 275/40-17 front and rear.
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/905138/side_flare.jpg
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/905142/quarter_flare_detail.jpg
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/905146/rear_flare_detail.jpg
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/905150/rear_flare_with_IRS_shot_detail.jpg

Front flare
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/905154/front_flare_cut_detail.jpg
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/905158/front_flare_mock_up_detail.jpg
 

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Wow,great work. :thumbsup:
I also will be following your progress.
 

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Subscribing.
:troll:
 

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The fab work on the IRS is looking good... What are your plans for finishing of the flairs? Are you going to try and weld those tabs back together, or use the tabs as a guide to form a posterboard template that can then be transfered to a single piece of sheet metal that would only require welding around the wheel arch?

I don't think it would have been an option for you, but I've heard others mention that one way to flair a 64-66 rear quarter 1" is to use 67-68 outer wheel houses. The quarter is then pushed out 1 extra inch and is barely detectable. It looks like you needed more than an inch.... I always wondered if one where to slice the top of an outer wheel house, and then using a hydraulic jack or porta power and some bracing on the wheel arch if the arch could then be pushed out with the quarter following / stretching along... then just weld up the gap inside the outer wheelhouse. Just a thought I had.. don't know if it would actually work.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
stangg said:
The fab work on the IRS is looking good... What are your plans for finishing of the flairs? Are you going to try and weld those tabs back together, or use the tabs as a guide to form a posterboard template that can then be transfered to a single piece of sheet metal that would only require welding around the wheel arch?

I don't think it would have been an option for you, but I've heard others mention that one way to flair a 64-66 rear quarter 1" is to use 67-68 outer wheel houses. The quarter is then pushed out 1 extra inch and is barely detectable. It looks like you needed more than an inch.... I always wondered if one where to slice the top of an outer wheel house, and then using a hydraulic jack or porta power and some bracing on the wheel arch if the arch could then be pushed out with the quarter following / stretching along... then just weld up the gap inside the outer wheelhouse. Just a thought I had.. don't know if it would actually work.
I am welding the tabs back together. After I had cut the slits though, I did use the Eastwood flaring tool to push everything out kind of like your porta power idea.
In my garage sits 2 new quarter panels and 67/68 outer wheel wells. The plan is to stretch the quarter as you stated for a subtle flare but, the weather is warming up and I want to drive the car now, SO, this is just to get me on the road. In the long run this is more work but in the short run, well I might have to move soon and I wan the car ready for a move if I need to do so.
Or, I might end up in Iraq this summer and if I die I don't want my wife having to deal with the car up on jack stands. Mostly I just want to drive it now though.

The new rear coil springs came in, 550lb 11". Had to rent the inside-type compressor to get it in. The only hitch was one of the hooked arms was pinched between the perch and spring for a while. The perch has an adjuster to raise or lower ride height. With the weight of the car on the spring the tire till tucks too much. The coil spring is bouncy. I hope the shock takes care of that. The stock Cobra coil s a 600 lb 16" spring. I was thinking the 66 is much lighter than the Cobra.
I am still finishing the flares all around. I think I'll be on the road next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's been a while since I've posted. I got side tracked, just separated from the Air Force after 10 years and have been transitioning well into civilian life.

The car isn't on the road as planned, still need tires and bleed the brakes. I did get to reuse the Classic Koni shocks in the rear. I'll get some pics posted soon. I wanted something different for the exhaust tip so I ied the two tail pipes together under the IRS and came up with an oval tip.
Here's a pic of the unfinished fender flares
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/1318849/IMG_1381_detail.JPG
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/1318857/IMG_1383_detail.JPG
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/1318865/IMG_1389_detail.JPG

Here's the exhaust tip
http://hubgarage.s3.amazonaws.com/photos/1295737/IMG_1295_detail.JPG

And, to make things more interesting, I bought two more cars and another Cobra IRS dropout. I picked up a 66 coupe rust bucket, and..... a 96 GT Vert (4.6, auto) with front end damage. I'm going to drop the body onto the 96 chassis, and bolting in the IRS. Yes, SN65, already been done. I'm doing it on a tighter budget. Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's been a while and I've finally got the suspension settled to where I could drive it without the tires rubbing. The rear flares, well, they suck. What I basically did was make more room for the outer edge of the tire to tuck under the rear flare lip, I did not make room for the tire to travel up into the wheel well. A bold move but I cut the flares off and a chunk of the outer wheel housing and am going to to an "outward tub" with mold on fiberglass flares. This is a learning process, taking a lot longer than i had anticipated.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I left a little bit of the old outer wheel well to use as a flange to locate the 67 well.




Notched the vertical flange and straightened some of the tab to widen the well.


This pushes the well out more to get more tire clearance. Its an outward mini tub.


spot welded in.


so far so good.


Driver' side done.
 
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