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Since we already pulled the trans for rebuilding and the engine had several freeze plugs leaking it seemed like a no brainer to go ahead and pull the engine.... which we did yesterday.

“Wow, look at the steering components all wore out and nasty..... and so accessible with the drivetrain out.” Guess I’ll be ordering a rebuild kit.

This was supposed to be a fuel and brake system rebuild and then driver her on down the road... haha

Lovin‘ every minute of it, teaching my youngest and learning so much along the way.

The lord has risen, Happy Easter!

750192
 

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QUESTION: I have never observed so much rust in a radiator, the cap was filthy brown and what was in the radiator when we drained it looked like muddy water.... the water that was seeping out of the freeze plugs was golden colored, clearly the system is rusty.

Since I have the engine out, and knowing the conditions described, should I go ahead and replace the water pump and thermostat?
 

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HAPPY EASTER !!
Yes, I would replace while I had all that stuff out, for peace of mind and relatively cheap insurance. Enjoy the time with your children!
 
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...or have it rodded out by a real old school radiator shop if you can find one. THey will take it apart amd return it painted looking like new. SOmeone did not put coolant in that motor, the block will be a mess, make sure you pressure wash all the water passages, if its a good motor, pull the water pump and flush hard with pressure wash both ways and down the intake till it comes out crystal clear. Then tape it all up and fill it wiht some kind of cleaner e.g. acetic acid or radiator crap let sit and work - then flush again...
 

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Happy Easter to you too. Enjoy following Alice down the rabbit hole with your kids!
 

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... make sure you pressure wash all the water passages, if its a good motor, pull the water pump and flush hard with pressure wash both ways and down the intake till it comes out crystal clear. Then tape it all up and fill it wiht some kind of cleaner e.g. acetic acid or radiator crap let sit and work - then flush again...
Would love to see details on this process.....
 

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Would love to see details on this process.....
Not much more to say, if you pull the water pump, there will be two ports into the block, stick a power washer wand into the ports and blast, watch the water coming out - blast till clean. Last time I did it, I used a hose and a small nozzel that comes out high pressure like a 1/4" hole. ANother time, I had a pressure washer I borrowed to pressure wash the bottom of a boat that just came out of the water. YOu can get radiator flush stuff from the parts store. Find a way to soak the block inside with it then blast again. You can also blast down the intake port where the hose to the radiator goes.
 

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Not much more to say, if you pull the water pump, there will be two ports into the block, stick a power washer wand into the ports and blast, watch the water coming out - blast till clean. Last time I did it, I used a hose and a small nozzel that comes out high pressure like a 1/4" hole. ANother time, I had a pressure washer I borrowed to pressure wash the bottom of a boat that just came out of the water. YOu can get radiator flush stuff from the parts store. Find a way to soak the block inside with it then blast again. You can also blast down the intake port where the hose to the radiator goes.
Thats for the details, I’ll probably rip it down today - I’m anxious to get started..... that is after I get the wife’s kitchen sink unclogged!

Everything's clogged up..... haha
 

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You can also do a citric axis flush. Safer than chemicals and can get all the water passages. Many articles on the web. Be warned if your system is held together by water deposits, the citric acid will clean that out and you may develop a leak. Usually at the heater core.
 

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You can also do a citric axis flush. Safer than chemicals and can get all the water passages. Many articles on the web. Be warned if your system is held together by water deposits, the citric acid will clean that out and you may develop a leak. Usually at the heater core.
Oh, I like the way this sounds.... I’ll be checking this out, thanks
 

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Welcome ,I think you have your corona mask on wrong ? Anyway since you have the engine out I'd load it it up and make a trip to the local coin op car wash and spray the shizz out of it . Your choice on the Radiator if you like the OE look and it's in otherwise good shape look into having it rebuilt Or for about the same coin I really like Aluminum Champion Radiators I have a # EC340 in my 66 EC340
Another good idea is an upper radiator hose filter lots of brands out now I have a clear Gano Gano Auto Coolant Filter Company
If your doing suspension work consider doing the UCA drop https://sep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-13525187779972/aarms.pdf
 

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If the engine was still in, I would recommend the white vinegar flush. Cheap, bio safe, and extremely effective. It's still a good soaking solution for the other components. You'll be amazed what comes out. When you decide to flush the rest of the system, don't run it all through your heater core. Flush it separately because the passages are smaller and it can act like an unwanted filter for the crop that comes loose elsewhere. Have fun !
 
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Welcome ,I think you have your corona mask on wrong ?
No it’s on correctly, we are trying something new - “covering our eyes when we take an engine out”... haha

Thanks for the radiator links, looks like a good price point - I’m not trying to save what I have, I‘m going to replace this radiator.
 
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If the engine was still in, I would recommend the white vinegar flush. Cheap, bio safe, and extremely effective. It's still a good soaking solution for the other components. You'll be amazed what comes out. When you decide to flush the rest of the system, don't run it all through your heater core. Flush it separately because the passages are smaller and it can act like an unwanted filter for the crop that comes loose elsewhere. Have fun !
I see the citrus flush is also performed with the engine in place and running. Wish I would have addressed this before pulling the drivetrain to prevent any new parts from exposure - I’ll just have to follow the suggestions provided with the engine on the stand for now.
 

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You can do the citric acid flush once you get everything back in. It’s not gonna hurt anything and work just as effective. You will have to remove the engine plugs and flush it a few times. with regards to the radiator, I did the Carroll Shelby upgrade. Installed a full-size Ford 24 inch radiator in the space of the stock 18 inch. there are articles on the web for that too
 

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So the facial recognition isn't going to get you. Have you heard about the latest beard recognition software?:oops:

Enjoy your time with the kids! It doesn't last long.
 
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So the facial recognition isn't going to get you. Have you heard about the latest beard recognition software?:oops:

Enjoy your time with the kids! It doesn't last long.
Ha, the beard gave you away!

Yeah I can’t stall on this car, this is my youngest - 21 in his 3rd year of college locally. Man once he graduates he’s gonna be starting his life for real... and that will be here soon. I just pray he stays local after he graduates, selfish..... yes I know!
 
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Discussion Starter #18
make sure you pressure wash all the water passages, if its a good motor, pull the water pump and flush hard with pressure wash both ways and down the intake till it comes out crystal clear.
Followed your suggestion on cleaning the passages - WOW was it ever wonderful to see the water change from brown to clear....

Thanks!
 

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I'd still get an upper hose filter ,you'd the stuff they catch
Yes I was looking at those yesterday and I do intend to install.
 
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