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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got a curved monte carlo bar for my 67 from NPD. Like a lot of other mustangs my shock towers have evidently sagged towards each other with time as the bar appears to be too long. So, I did a search on other related posts and found that I could jack up the car and let it sit, possibly for days, and let the towers relax. Well, I have done this for over a week now and it is still about 1/2" too short (the space between my towers).

I have removed the 2 braces that connect the firewall to the shock towers and jacked the car up off of the ground from the radiator support.

Is this the correct way to allow the shock towers to relax? Do I have it jacked up in the right place? Is there a better place that will give me that last 1/2"?

I just want to double check before I take more extreme measures. I saw a post where someone seperated their shock towers with a 4x4" and a bottle jack.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thannks,
Derek
 

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IDK if it would make a difference since the tires would still be off the ground, but you may try jacking up by the crossmember right below the oil pan. the bottle jack sounds like an interesting idea.
 

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I would jack it up under the front frame rails as close to the engine as you can get. I would never jack it up from the front radiator support.

How long is the bar from end to end?
 

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I think you will end up having to use a porta-power or some type of jack to spread the shock towers. If you think about it they may have always been this way, there were some crappy builds coming from the factory. Also if the towers have indeed become weak it has taken 41 yrs to come to the resting spot they are at now, I really do not believe they will relax back in a few days or maybe ever. My 2 cents.
 

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Are you installing a one piece export brace as well? If so start with that one since getting it to fit will get everything else in line. If not consider doing it!

Put the jack stands right under the frame rails where they join the fire wall.

Then if possible put a bit of pressure on the engine cross member.

John Harvey
 

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Well, I have a export brace already installed on my '70. Bought a import M.C. bar and it lacked 1/2 " from fitting.(too wide)There is no way that my shock towers were off that much. After posting here ,I learned that the overseas market does not really care about specs. and fitting issues. Sent it back and decided to do without.IMO, not all M.C. bars are created equal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The bar measures 40.25" from what I call corner to corner (that being the horizontal to vertical corners of the mounting brackets on each end that bolt ot he fender aprons.

Yes, I got an export brace (also from NPD) as well and it measures up the same (1/2" too long). So, I figured that was 2 strikes against my car being out of measurment.

OK, back to this crossmember idea. Does anyone have a picture of this? I dont recall seeing such an item under my car by the oil pan.

Thanks,
Derek
 
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It bolts to the frame with two bolts. It should be directly under the oil pan. It is quite thick and should be easy to spot. HTH
 

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dcubedus said:
The bar measures 40.25" from what I call corner to corner (that being the horizontal to vertical corners of the mounting brackets on each end that bolt ot he fender aprons.

Yes, I got an export brace (also from NPD) as well and it measures up the same (1/2" too long). So, I figured that was 2 strikes against my car being out of measurment.

OK, back to this crossmember idea. Does anyone have a picture of this? I dont recall seeing such an item under my car by the oil pan.

Thanks,
Derek
I also got my export brace from NPD, it fit perfectly, then the M.C. bar did not (not from NPD), so I knew that it could not be the fender wells, just crappy measurement's on M.C. bar.
 

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Here's what I would do with your situation and money!

Forget about the monte carlo bar for now, and get a single piece export brace and see if you can fit it in without jacking the car up. If you can, then that means your MC bar is too long. If you can't get the export brace in, jack up the car on the side frame rails for a couple of days. Then try and force the export brace in, even if you have to use a large punch to align the holes. The wimpy two-piece braces aren't strong enough to keep the shock towers in place, but a good quality export brace will!

Once you have the one piece export brace in, the MC bar should drop right in, if it is the correct length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I do have an export brace as well to install. It is the nicer Scott Drake one from NPD. It is also too long.

I will take another look under the car for the crossmember. I can always jack the car up by the framrails on either side and try that route.

Worse case scenario, I have seen adjustable monte carlo bars for sale. Has anyone tried one of those? Also, are there adjustable export braces out there too?

Thanks again,
Derek
 

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Midlife said:
Here's what I would do with your situation and money!

Forget about the monte carlo bar for now, and get a single piece export brace and see if you can fit it in without jacking the car up. If you can, then that means your MC bar is too long. If you can't get the export brace in, jack up the car on the side frame rails for a couple of days. Then try and force the export brace in, even if you have to use a large punch to align the holes. The wimpy two-piece braces aren't strong enough to keep the shock towers in place, but a good quality export brace will!

Once you have the one piece export brace in, the MC bar should drop right in, if it is the correct length.
Yep, you nailed it Randy. :thumbsup:
 

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Once you have the one piece export brace in, the MC bar should drop right in, if it is the correct length.
I don't know about dropping right in, but it should drop in easier.

Of all the Monte Carlo bars and export braces I've installed, I don't ever recall one that dropped right in. *LOL*

Hmmm, this post brings back memories of 70sportsroof standing on the Monte Carlo bar in Scary to get it in. I was looking around the garage for the rubber mallet when I hear Ken say, "Grab the bolts, I got it!" I turn around and see him standing on the bar, trying to balance himself. I never knew he was so nimble before that. :jump:
 

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Our cars are made of steel, not wood. They are elastic. Any "sag" that has occurred is the result of stresses that permanently deformed the structure. Jacking the car up by the crossmember and waiting won't undo this.

Yes, you will likely see some very slight movement of the towers doing so, maybe even enough to resolve small fitment problems, but time won't change anything. The towers won't relax with time. What you're gonna get you'll get as soon as the tires leave the ground.

If they were built too narrow, or have been shoved inward by years of use, abuse, whatever, they have to be forced into alignment. Period.

It would seem that somewhere there is a specification on the clear distance between the aprons in front of the towers that one could use to check both the car and the MC bar. Only that way do you know which is wrong.

Mine is a '68 convertible. A friend has a '67 convertible. Mine is quite solid and relatively rust and damage free. His is a rustbucket with a pretty paint job on it. I have removed and reinstalled my export brace a few times without incident or undo persuasion. His was not so easy. We had to literally spread his car to get both his export brace and MC bar in.

A half inch is alot. It's hard to believe one's aprons could move that much without having some serious sheetmetal fitment problems along the way. Regardless, if you have to spread your towers by that much, you WILL have to realign your fenders, etc.
 

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If you have to move your towers 1/2" plus to get a bar to fit then you will definitely have alignment problems after.
 

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My 68 cv ha an export brace and it was relatively easy to install. So I have a straight MC bar and can tell, if I take out the appropriate bolts, it will go in with minimal pressure. The combination of the two with the 580# springs, 1" sway bar, and GR2 shocks, should result in good handling and cornering. The straight bar would not have fit had the car had an original AC compressor rather than the Sanden.
 

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My mach has the same issue with the curved MC Bar from NPD.. I checked it with another thru them and the second was the same lengh as well (up to 2" tooooo loonngg))))!!! I jacked up the car from the frame near the torque boxes for days after removing the factory export braces and still the towers didnt open.. I then took the advice of many on here and did it from the crossmember for a couple of days and still not enough (maybe a 1/2 or so but that was it)))...

I previously had rebuilt the entire front end and was determined to get this curved MC bar to fit!!! I thought there is NO way my fender aprons are off this much.. The car tracks and handles relitively straight.. What I end up doing was using my cut-off wheel and removing one of the brackets on the end.. I then cut off about 1 3/4" from the tube and rewelded (MIG) and ground it down.. Val-la PERFECT fit and it looks good.. Mine was a black MC bar not a chromed version.. Figured even if I screwed up, these things are only like 20 bucks...

The one piece export brace well let me tell you, another bear.. Had a heck of a time lining up the holes with those on the shock tower. Used a large punch and some massaging but finally got it...

good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for all the good input. I am going to try using this crossmember idea before moving on. All I need is that 1/2". Yes, I will definitely get it re-aligned as I am also in the middle of a suspension project anyway.

However, I still cannot find evidence of this front crossmember on my car. There is no support structure below my engine's oil pan anywhere. I guess it could be missing. If so, I have owned the car for 20 years and evidently have not missed it until now:)

Does anyone have pic of what it looks like installed?

Derek
 
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