Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,199 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
... thanks to all who gave me the good advice on the doors, got another question for ya...

well, two questions, but here's the first one...

Everyone had made mention the doors should be off to paint the jambs... which is a good idea... but how much should I paint? Should I just paint the primer and then the white base coat and then put the door on and clear coat everything? Should I clear coat it and then put the door on? How will that effect blending in the rest of the car with those areas that I had done with the door off? (for instance, the rocker area below the door...)

question #2... I was planning on trying to keep as much of the door jamb paint as I could... It looks really good and if I didn't have to do it, I wans't going to. I was going to do about one inch inside just to get everything to blend together. Then I thought... would the original paint and the BC/CC paints react with each other and make one peel up? would that happen? Should I strip all the paint and just go one or the other? Can I feather them together (after proper sanding and stuff so the lines between the two would be small if not impossible to see)?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,220 Posts
You need to finish the door edging off the car if you can. This includes clear coating the jambs. As far as the rocker and door jambs on the car are concerned if you are staying the same color and dont sand the paint off then I would mask off that area while doing my priming and then remove the masking tape for the final color and clear. It should blend ok and buff out to look good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,199 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
How do I get them to blend together if I mask off the old paint area? I mean, wouldn't htere be a line right where the two meet? or are you saying that would buff out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,220 Posts
The experience I had with mine was that the color and clear overspray through the gap between door and quarter panel caused a blend that I was able to buff out. I only masked the area for priming to keep any wayward off color primer from showing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,199 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Okay, I'm confused....

Currently, I have bare metal and Wimbeldon White paint on my jambs... I'm going to sand about 1/2 inch to an inch of that so I can get rid of the jagged areas where the paint stripper went a little farther than I wanted.... So after I sand that, I'll have a semi rough line going from bare metal to "final paint"... What should I cover, and why? How will I get that edge nice and smooth? Is it possible?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
If I understand you correctly, I believe you have two options:
1. Sand as you described, put a tape line about two inches in from the sanding line and prime. Wet sand the area and apply the new base coat. Your new base coat will blend in with the old paint. Then clear coat the entire area.
2. Sand prime and paint only the 1" area you described. Then clear coat the entire jamb. The clear coat will "soften the edge you will create by doing this, but it will still be there. Trying to eliminate this edge completely will require several coats of clear with wet sanding between coats and this may be difficult to achieve IMO.

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,199 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So sand the one inch in, then tape off the rest (so you're showing about 2 inches of the old paint)... Then, primer that whole area, wetsand to get rid of the "uneven" areas and then paint base.... Ok...

I guess my only question is, will the primer paint (or the base on top) cause the old paint (which I think would be acrylic?) to peel away?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Here's the tricky part. Base coat can cause the old finish to lift if not applied properly. Use a fast/quick drying reducer (thinner) and apply the base in thin coats. Allow ample time to dry between coats. The clear coat, whether applied over base or and old finish should not cause any concern with lifting.

Hope this helps.

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Also, prime only the bare metal area. Moving the tape line in 2 inches will prevent the overspray from reaching the rest of the door jamb and reduce the chance for buildup at the tape line. Then wet sand the entire jamb.

Scott

Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,960 Posts
What I did was to sand the jambs including 3 inches of paneling around the door......this way I could oversparay a bit and not worry about paint lifting.....or reacting....

Do fully prep the rocker panel sand the old paint off and prep it with sealer small amount of filler etc.....then you can over spray
without worrying about reactions....

DO clear coat everything before assembly...

WHen shooting your exterior, tape the door jambs all the way up to the fold in for the exterior panels....(the lip that folds over door jamb and has spot welds.....this way your paint lines won't be noticeable and you wont worry about buffing them to blend them!!!!

by this time you should have the door on with the inner jambs painted etc....

this way you have nothing but primered and prepped outter skins to paint.....and everything leading to the door jambs...

at this point the painted and cleared door jambs and painted trunklid areas are masked....

let us know how it goes!!!
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top