[65blueyes]

Well today I ordered a Miloden High Flow Aluminum water pump, MIL-16231 from Summit. This is my last place to look to fix my cooling problems. My problem was my car would run hot on the freeway, 210-230 degrees, and would move towards overheating in stop and go traffic. I have a 3" shroud, 16 in flex fan, 3 row hd radiator, 160 deg tstat, and am currently running 1/3 coolant, 2/3 water. Still no change. So I am hoping this will fix it!

I checked my timing and plugs everything read fine from my last post, thanks for everyones help!

 

[JerseysBest]

I think overheating at highway speed is an indication of the bottem radiator hose collapsing, but I dunno if someone already pointed that out with your last post. Good luck.

 

[ralph2]

Does it actually boil over or just run hot ? What Pound radiator cap are you running ?

 

[Shaun]

If the pump doesn't solve your problem, I bet your radiator is clogged with crud... Take it into a radiator shop and get it rodded.

Or pony up the cash and go with a new 4 row or aluminum.

 

[65blueyes]

It just runs hot, the other day in 90 deg weather it was running about 220 and even 230, and this was with the heater on full blast for added cooling. I have never had it actually overheat, I always prevent it from going that far. And I have a 14# cap.

 

[ralph2]

I agree make SURE that radiator is CLEAN and FLOWS. My car was doing the same thing but when I changed to T-5 with out the trans cooler in radiator (and the one in front of the radiator) it now runs cool. I use Water Wetter too. Sure sounds like a clogged radiator.

 

[mclouthmustang]

Do you have a hi-stall converter in your transmission?
When my car was having problems with running hot, I had a new 4 row radiator with 2 10" electric pusher fans, a 16 inch electric puller fan and an electric drive water pump. It would still overheat. I finally found out that the stall converter was the problem. I added an auxillary cooler and took the transmission flow OUT of the radiator. Shazaam. No more problems. The transmission AND engine ran loads cooler.
Never overheated or even got hot again. Even with my ignition advanced and racing fuel at the dragstrip on 100 degree days.
From what I have seen and was told, a hi-stall converter is just a heat maker and the byproduct of making the heat is that it drives the transmission. Makes sense in the the impeller just beats on the fluid heating it up until it gets hi enough pressure to move the car forward Hope this helps.

 

[65blueyes]

Well I hope it isnt my radiator, I forgot to say this but its a new radiator from California Mustang, only 1 year old. I not running a filter in the system, but when i drained the system it was clean.

 

[65blueyes]

No i dont have a high stall converter, but that does sound sensible. Thanks for your replies!! I just hope to god that this pump does the trick, the people who did my engine may have went cheasy with the pump on it, I know they did with the starter. Wish me luck, hopefully I wont need it though.

 

[c6fastback]

Problem may be your 160' stat .A cold stat MAY allow the coolant to recirculate to fast . By this I mean that the coolant in the radiator does not have enough time to dissapate heat before it returns back to the engine . A cold stat works good on a large or very efficient cooling system .Hope this helps .

 

[kruser]

Chris, you didn't say whether you checked to see if the radiator hose was collapsing. You may be on the right track with the water pump, but usually, not always, they'll show some signs of being bad (noise, weeping out the vent hole). Another question came to mind - how about the accuracy of your gauge? Have you run a second gauge to verify the first one? Just some thoughts - those temp problems can be pesky. ::