[tomy2tone01]

I posted a WTB post for a rebuilt or NOS 65 proportioning valve. I got 1 response but they won't return my emails.

I give up.

Here is my question. How tough is it to rebuild my proportioning valve. I have the rebuid kit already. My manual says clean and assembly (if you can get it apart that is).

Have any of you rebuilt yours? What peoblems did you run into.

How can you tell if your valve needs to be rebuilt?

Tom

 

[Guest]

I'll add my experience, although you may not like the answer. My PO had rebuilt the Kelsey Hayes valve when I purchased the car. After plumbing the system, the "C"-shaped retaining clip blew out during bleeding. No problem, I thought. I took apart the valve and put it back together properly. This time, it developed an internal leak (past a seal) and leaked out the vent hole. I purchased the rebuild kit and went to work. A short time later, it blew past a new seal during bleeding and I gave up. I've purchased an aftermarket valve and put the K-H on the shelf.

 

[Guest]

My advice? Don't!

 

[mrgem]

Funny you should ask...

If you do a search, you'll see that I started a quest several months ago to get one of the 2 valves I own properly rebuilt. Well...long story short, it looks like I've successfully rebuilt my valve.

There are several vendors who sell kits for these valves, but the kits typically only have one type of seal for the smaller of the 2 bores. Kelsey-Hayes made these valves with 2 different internal designs.

If you ask the vendors, they aren't even aware that the valves came with 2 different types of pistons that used different seals for the smaller of the bores. In spite of what some have said, the 2 do not use the same seals.

I had to buy a Scott Drake kit, find a local seal distributor who stocked a proper seal for the "front" bore and ship the whole mess off to a hydraulic machinist 1800 miles from here. Prior to my valve, he'd done plenty of collector car brake hydraulic components, but never a K-H prop valve.

He bored and sleeved the valve with stainless, reassembled it and pressure tested it with air. I bled the brakes today and it seems to be handling the pressure just fine.

The other option is to send it off to White Post restorations in Virginia. They will rebuild your unit, but will charge you an arm and a leg. They sleeve theirs with brass - which I don't really care for. They DO have a very good reputation for doing quality work, though, so I'm sure their rebuilds are fine.

Let me know if you need more information on stainless sleeving.

 

[daveoxide]

I took mine apart and cleaned it all out and then reassembled with the old seals. I did the "rattle can rebuild" style rebuild on my proportioning valve and it has been working fine ever since. The reason I took it apart was because the darn piston was stuck in one direction, causing my brake light to stay on, so I had to fix it.

I also just "rebuilt" the one I am using for my disc brakes now in the same way. It too works fine. I found no need to replace the seals, I figured I would leave well enough alone. Just get the gunk out and call it done, basically.

I have a feeling those aftermarket seal kits are crap, so that is another reason why I didn't rebuild mine properly. That, and I am lazy. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[tomy2tone01]

While reading all of your posts I think I will try taking mine apart, just to see what is inside. Then I will call Whitepost.
Tom

 

[ShanMan]

Other than the seal kit issues mentioned already, (NPD kit good...Scott Drake kit bad) use this site as your guide:

http://home.swbell.net/creepers/brakevalve.html