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· Super Moderator
8,669 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got help lined up this weekend to come over and help me position the 289 back in the '65. Does anyone have any hints or things which you have learned that might help? The C4 is still in the car. I don't have to mate the exhaust up. The muffler shop will have to do that later.

Also, the radiator is out. But, I went ahead and mounted everything on the engine except the fan and spacer. Can it go in OK with the alternator and PS pump on?

Thanks for any advice you can give!


p.s. Prayer has worked very well so least on welding my frame nuts back in and installing the PS drop bracket.

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)

· Registered
152 Posts
Get some threaded rod the same as the bolts that hold the engine and tranny tohether. You will need two pieces four or five inches long. Thread them in the trans on each side to act as guides when you are getting the engine and trans back together. Makes the tranny slide right up. Start a couple of bolts and remove the threaded rod.

65 Coupe (The Toy)
68 Coupe (Son's)
2000 GT Conv. (Wife's)
66 Conv. (New Project)

· Registered
706 Posts
A while ago I took the engine and tranny out of my 66 as a combo. It went smooth enough. I did take the Alt and PS Pump off the engine, as well as the fan and spacer.

There was plenty of room when getting the engine back in like this (still as a combo). I did have a fully automatic 6300KG crane for help *LOL* and a friend of course.

Based on my experience, of this one time, I would like to point out that it will be easier to damage the engine bay with the Alt and PS pump still on. It also leaves less room to position your hands when guiding the engine down in its mounts.

But, you have the advantage that you can lower the engine in from directly above, at almost no angle. With my C4 still attached I had to get it to almost 45 degrees before it would simply slide in. And then I had to level the load....

I think I'd do it iwthout the alt and pump, but expect you'd be okay if you left them on.

First time rolling restoration, 66 289 nearing completion.

· Registered
65 Mustang Convertible
1,668 Posts
I've gotten to the point that I replace the engine and transmission together, as a unit. I got tired of trying to line the damn things up off the car, and the added weight on the back with the tranny in place makes for a perfect load angle into the engine bay.
take your radiator out, if it already isn't. One slip and you'll puncture it!!!

You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me!!!
66 200 3-spd Coupe - emberglo, daily driver
65 289 4-spd Conv - Rangoon Red (what else)
66 Shelby - Red and Ready to be Restored

If you don't have one, get one!! It is a "bar" that you hook your cherry picker to instead of the engine. The bar is then hooked to the engine. This "Bar" has a crank handle on it that allows you to move the position of the engine while it is hanging in air, thus moving the pivot point. You can adjust the engine to any angle you want/need. By far the best $24 I EVER spent on car related tools.

Good luck

Full Throttle

· Agitator
1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
7,568 Posts
Now would be the perfect time for the ever popular tilt front end conversion for your car. Two snap latches and the whole thing flips forward! You could drop that engine in from the side with at forklift! Seriously, a lift, a load leveler bar and an extra pair of guiding hands on the other side and you should have no problems. I also agree with taking the radiator out, unless you want an excuse to buy that new Griffin that you've always wanted!

When I can't stand, I must lean...
When I can't see, I must believe....

· Registered
3,604 Posts
I intalled my engine myself, it went in very easy. I put the passenger side header in the engine compartment before
i swung the engine in. Once i got a couple of bolts in the
trans, I used my hoist to lift the engine for the other header.
The alt might block the access for the passenger motor mount!
Install the two EGR plugs in the back of the heads before
you drop in the motor *G*. I had to loosen the motor mount
bolts (on the engine) to get the long bolt through the mounts.

I see a road test in your near future!!!!


1966 Mustang Coupe, 302 custom roller cam, holley 650dp,

· Registered
397 Posts
took me and a couple others 1.5 hours to get it lined up w/ the tranny. I did not have the leveler bar mentioned in one reply, and definitely spend the $ and get one. You can not put it in easily without it, unless you want to repair and repaint the dents in your engine compartment.

Also, do your best to eyeball and line up the torque convertor, if you did not mark it on the flywheel before removal. I eyeballed it (forgot to mark it) and only had to turn the tranny through about an inch to line it up - a pain, but once line up it popped right in.
Member NTMC[/url]

· Registered
7,478 Posts
Take the crankshaft pulley off.... It'll give you much more

Rotate the torque converter so the studs are at 12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions, do the same with the flexplate.

Jack the transmission up as far as it will go, with a protractor, check the angle of the face of the bell housing, tilt the motor the same angle.

Motor SHOULD pop into the bell housing with a little turning of the converter.

Start a couple of bolts and lower trans and motor into supports.

Required tools for operating a Vintage Mustang:
1. Duct Tape
2. J.B. Weld
3. B.F.H. (Big Fat Hammer)
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· Registered
239 Posts
when i needed to put my engine back, i put it back in with the tranny on, then got my wife to give me a hand to put it in the car, noo sweat and i didn 't have to growl at her once and it only took us about 20----30 miniutes.What agreat day that was....
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