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Discussion Starter #1
I want to treat some pitting on the roof caused by rust under the vinyl top so it won't be an issue later on after I put a new top on it. I haven't tried the products from POR-15 personally but if I understand it correctly the stuff sets up extremely hard and it has to be brushed on. I want to be able to sand the roof smooth and topcoat it before installing the new top and it sounds like this product would be difficult at best to sand. I've tried Extend by Permatex and wasn't impressed. Any recommendations on any other products to kill rust but still be workable?
 

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I just purchased a gallon of "Rust Bullet" to use on my 67.Here is their site.
www.rustbullet.com
Good luck.
 

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ZeroRust seems to be pretty easy to work with and work pretty well, but I haven't used it (yet).
 

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If you are going to apply the same exterior paint over the roof as the rest of the car, then I recommend SEM Product's Rust Mort. It is designed as a surface rust killer that you will then do body and paintwork over. My 71 was total surface rust on the roof, quarters and tops of the fenders. I used Rust Mort on it five years ago, no problems at all....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. I'll check into these products, hopefully some of them will be available locally.
 

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I read a mag article that directly compared POR-15 to Corroless from Eastwood. In side by side testing the Corroless looked better, applied easier, and did everything POR-15 was supposed to do but did it without the additional special materials (meaning expensive) that POR-15 requires you get from them in order to properly apply the stuff and prep for painting.

I'll also 2nd the nod for SEM products. I haven't used their Rust Mort, but I have used other products from them and they have always been good quality.
 

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Rust Bullet is popular with the Ford truck set. I've got some that I'm going to use on the floor of my Bronco, just haven't gotten around to it yet. According to them you can paint over it (within a certain amount of time) with out any special primers/prep.
 

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I've used Chassis Saver from Magnet paints and really like how well it adheres to metal.
It comes in aluminum, satin black and gloss black.
I'm putting it on my top, under the vinyl.
 

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gotstang said:
ZeroRust seems to be pretty easy to work with and work pretty well, but I haven't used it (yet).
+1 for Zero Rust. I applied Zero Rust on my wheel wells and undercarriage with a brush, and it went on easily. However, if you want it to lay down like spay paint, you'll need to spray it on the surface you're treating.
 

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Something to think about, with the pitting underneath a vinyl top, is any pits that come through. Wearing a respirator, doing it outside, if possible, an application of muriatic acid to MAKE SURE that the rust is DEAD!. A mild rinse with baking soda and water afterward, allowing surface to dry,(blow dry with warm air if nec) and then a treatment with Ospho. Ospho is phosphoric acid, which will etch the surface, adhere like cement, and provide a base for a primer and paint.

If a tooth gets a cavity, a competent dentist is going to get the decay out totally without locking in the decaying causing material.

The above prep is cheap to do and most thorough. DO NOT believe in covering rust ala POR 15 and related products, under a vinyl top. After the above prep, a quality epoxy primer and a quality urethane finish, and rust should not be able to reappear. Considering that the average restored Mustang is not allowed to sit out in a rainy humid climate, etc., why would it if it is properly done.
 

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+1 on "Os Pho?"

I used "Os Pho" on my old truck undercarriage and it removed all the surface rust from being driven in the snow.

I purchased it from a marine supply store.
 

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ospho is good for prepping rusty metal, but i wouldnt use it for removing rust
 

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I wouldn't either because it's purpose is not for the heavy rust. For the heavy stuff, use of the acid to KILL the rust first, rather than cover it. Have seen rust come back on cars too many times. Tests have been done leaving different products outside to face the elements and they all rusted in time. Have seen a number of cars AFTER vinyl top is removed. Not too many have been kind enough to just leave shallow pits. If one has a roof that is poxed clear through in a lot of places, don't look for a LASTING repair with paints. In time it'll be back. Takes a real pro to weld up the top of a roof. If there are holes, por with cloth is probably the best of the paint bunch
over rust-free roughed up metal. But the best way is with a 2 part epoxy over clean, not rust covered metal, JB WELD and glass cloth would be the best lasting repair short of changing the roof. Vinyl roofs in a humid climate are the worst. Once the pin holes start, the moisture can then attack from the backside and no paints will stop that.
 
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