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Discussion Starter #1
Today, while waiting for the fiberglass to dry on Trouble's hood, we decided to see how the chrome export brace fits. Uh oh, one side fits really well, but the other side won't line up. Or, both sides fit and the cowl lip holes won't line up. Just so you know, the car currently is up on four jackstands.

Any suggestions, short of expanding the holes on the cowl lip (which we don't want to do)?
 

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If you can, place a jack under the engine cross-member and jack the ft end up a bt; it tends to spread apart the shock towers and you should have better luck.
 
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Jack the front end up by the center crossmember under the oil pan. Put the rear end down on it's wheels. The aprons
will expand back to where it will fit.
 

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Take measurements from the coupe, see if the car is at fault or the part.... If the part, return it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a spare set of regular cowl braces, and they fit with no problems. Is the export brace just more difficult to fit because it is one solid piece? Until we can get the export brace to fit, we're going to leave the cowl braces on for support. I think next weekend we'll take the car off the jackstands to move it so that would be a good time to try the jack under the cross-member trick. Guess we'd better install the cross-member first, though. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
 

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Yes, they are a pain to install....

I barely start the nuts on the shock tower caps, use a long, tapered line-up bar to start a cowl bolt... Shelby used a smaller bolt at the cowl than came with the factory two-piece... (3/8"-7/16")
 

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I've heard from numerous people that keeping the old shock tower braces on and installing the brace over them is a great way to further strengthen the front of the chassis/engine bay. I did it on mine, but I have a black brace, a chrome brace with the stock ones udnerneath might not look so good.
 

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cant look any worse than what i've got going on. someone along they way cut the stock braces out of mine, left the ends where it welds and then put a chrome brace over it. it's pretty ugly if you stare at it long enough /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif thankfully i will never become a "previous owner", all the things wrong might get blamed on me... lol
 

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Had the same problem on the 65. We attached the shocktower bolts then used a 12 inch punch and a black pipe clamp, to force the vent area in.
we forced the punch into the brace hole and then into the vent hole. We then placed the black pipe over the punch and just pulled the pipe up straight so the two holes aligned. I then had to use a rubber mallet to drive the brace down so the brace and vent were next to each other. We then installed the Stainless steel bolts in the hole next to the hole with the punch, using an impact wrench. Put a nut on the bolt and then went to the other side of the brace. After we got the two ( outer holes by the way) bolts in the brace we still had to use an impact wrench to install the remaining two bolts.
You could use a socket wrench, but I found the impact wrench to be easier.
I also used an aluminum L bracket on the bottom of the vent piece to give it some strenght. If your making the car concourse I guess you won't do that.
It seemed like a lot of force was required but the front end aligned without any problems and we didn't have any problems installing anything else on the car. Well except the T-5 tranny crossmember. But thats another story.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's good to know about the smaller bolt, thanks.
 

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"Oh, you're just a silly GIRL. You don't know anything about Mustangs, let alone, how to work on one"

Now, everybody step back, hand Laurie a pry bar, and watch this thing "magically" get forced into place! /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

Seriously, I went thru a similar process as described above - loosely attach at the shock towers, then I used a piece of 7/16" steel rod thru the cowl holes. Pried away, and it went into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh kind sir, forgive me for thinking I might know something about the car I've owned for 34 years. /forums/images/icons/blush.gif

We tried the old pry bar trick, but it didn't work. We'll try the jack under the cross-member next--that just might do it. Now if I can just find where we put the cross-member bolts so we can put that thing on..... Gee, what does a bolt look like? /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
 

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hehehe......../forums/images/icons/laugh.gif Make sure you bat your eyelashes when you say that!!! /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

I've also had good success with placing the jackstands under the pinchwelds behind the front wheels instead of under the framerail - let's the front end "droop" a little more....

Regarding those bolts....
http://a3.cpimg.com/image/15/AE/10449173-7a34-01C20170-.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ummm, do I need a left-handed spanner wrench, too? /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

Hey, with that 390 up front Trouble doesn't need any help drooping. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
 

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...and it did for me. I tried all those tricks previously mentioned...no dice! So I got proactive, and fab'd this:

http://a2.cpimg.com/image/70/3D/11493232-95fa-02000180-.jpg

Installed it like this:

http://a3.cpimg.com/image/71/3D/11493233-26a1-02000180-.jpg

http://a4.cpimg.com/image/72/3D/11493234-af55-02000180-.jpg

It took about 40 turns, but the export brace literally fell into place over the shock towers. To bring it into alignment with the cowling, I used two longer than stock bolts to get it started. Once those were fairly tight and the brace was pretty well aligned, I installed the other two bolts (correct length). After those were torqued tight, I swapped the long bolts for the last two correct ones and that was all she wrote! by the way, that chassis black paint was only days old, and the spreader bar did not leave a mark. I was pleased.

Wanna borrow the spreader bar? You pay shipping though! /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks neat, I'll let you know if I need to borrow it. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif The only problem is I would have to remove the valve covers so, hopefully, the other tricks will work.
 
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