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When I rebuilt my rear brakes I took the time and really gave the drums a good clean and paint with Por-15. After a few days I put the drums back on and they seemed tight.
I think the paint where the studs and hub come through are causing it.
 

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Yep, brake drums often stick, without the thickness paint, on the axle hub. Some penetrating lube at that location may help. Make sure your shoes are fully back off so they are not touching the drums.

The other issue with painting brake drums is heat. Yes, they make paints that resist high temperatures but you would also want a paint with the same heat transfer rate as steel. A brake drum is intended to absorb heat and then give it off to the air. Painting of the drum can serve as an insulation layer reducing the speed at which the drum an do it's job of getting rid of heat. While Por 15 is great for rust, I am not sure if it is made to transfer heat.
 

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You will need a big hammer from the back side, rotate the drum as you hit it per section. I don't recommend POR15 on the drums, use regular paint and touch up as necessary as it burns/fades off.
 

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You may have to hit those areas with paint stripper. Painting a brake drum then installing it will allow the paint to heat up with brake usage and "melt" to fill any empty clearance areas.
 

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irst, be sure that the shoes are backed off so they are not touching the drum. After the penetrating oil, tap all around the perimeter of the drum with a dead blow hammer, then tap from the back to see if it moves. If not, get the propane torch and heat the center of the drum around the axle hub area ; then tap from the back. If by that time it still dooesn't come off, buy or rent a brake drum puller.

Good luck. Been there, done that, although not from paint, but from rust.,

Bob
 

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Heat. Use a torch to heat the area around the flange. The paint should soften and the drum should expand enough to get off of the flange.
 
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