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If anybody happens to know a lot about restoration maybe you could help me get a ball park idea on how much this might cost to restore, I'd probably have to have most of it done in the shop I'm sure cause I don't have a lot of time to work on it. But I'm sure I could find time for more minor things. http:// / /ws/ ? &item=1849415549
 

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Last time I had a shop quote me a price on ¼ panel replacement, it was around $1700 each which included the outer wheel wells. Probably another 1k for the floor? Not counting any other rust that needs repaired or replaced? A lot of money!!
 
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In my opinion I would pass on this car. Too much rust & WAY too much money. The last one I worked on(I did the mechanical only) Was a vert GT & it had almost $20K in it when it was done & it ran when we got it. My honest opinion, if you pay someone, you're looking at $10 for body & paint alone... if it's done right.
 

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Thats about as bad as my car was when I got it, but I payed a hell of a lot less then the buy it now price. I plan on spending about $20,000 on the car. Thats doing all the work myself.
 

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damn guys... im past 20k :mad: LoL

it must be worth it since i still have the car, even though in the beginning if I would have known I would have probably gotten a newer GT or something (dont kill me!!!!)
 

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If I had known I'd have bought a newer GT (Don't kill me) LOL..... Like "YOU'RE" the only one to have ever had that thought!
 

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You did not fill in your profile but I would assume you're from the rust belt if you're even looking at that car. Do yourself a favor and take a vacation to the great southwest to buy a car with minimal rust. The $ you'll save on the rustoration, you can have a nice vacation and pay to have the car transported home. The most expensive part of a restoration is rust repair, especially if your paying someone to do the work.
 

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To pay to have that restored? Probably $20-30,000. Then you will have a nice car you could sell for about $12-15,000
 

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Let me play devil's advocate. I see LOTS of surface rust, and agree that the quarter panels and floor boards (explicitly stated), cowls, outer wheelhouses, and trunk area (implicitly stated by nature of car) would have to be changed. I do not believe the remarks about the frame rails, but if they are good, I might give $750 - $1000 (anybody got one for sale in the south?) for that car. I see lots of missing parts, and I would not pay someone else to do the bodywork, but '66 v-8 fastbacks are hard to come by lately. If you can do a physical inspection before you bid, that would go a long way. This way it's like a pig in a poke.
 
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It's almost always cheaper to buy a fully restored car. Once you've got the car restored to a reasonable level, you'll have more money in it than you can possibly sell it for. Of course, you might not be in it for the money (I don't think many of us are) and the downsides to buying a fully restored car are (a) you don't get the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and (b) you have to come up with all the money up front.

Personally, I wouldn't go anywhere near that one.
 

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If you've got ANY thoughts of having someone else do the work, that's not the car for you. You will EASILY have $20k into that car when it's done if YOU do the work. I'm sure it will be closer to $30k having someone else do it. You can buy a finished one for half that.
 
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I'm pretty sure I'm going to get like a '70 fastback with a 351, because the engine is perfect, no rust, but the interior needs work, which I can easily do myself, so I'm thinking that's the route I'm gonna go. Thanks for all your help guys.
 

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The car is very solid, and yes, THE FRAME RAILS ARE ABSOLUTELY PERFECT!! Quarters do not need to be replaced, cowl is fine, wheelhouse are fine, engine compartment is fine, Shock towers are PERFECT. Trunk drop-offs should be replaced. Restoration cost the same whether you start out with a 9,000 driver, or a shell like this. If you buy a 9,000 "driver", you will probably end up replacing everthing, including rebuilding the suspension, the motor....etc. I own the car in question. I have owned dozens of classic mustangs. And currently own several. If this car doesn't sell...no big deal, I will turn it into a Shelby clone or something. But it has the build tag, the build sheet, original door tag....this is a terrific low cost project car. Get the car to a sandblaster and it will look better.


Rob
 

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I didn't mean to be offensive- indeed, if the car were in my area, I would definitely be interested (transportation cross-country would be a hefty bit of up-front change). But I feel justified being skeptical - you don't find many northern cars without some wheelwell/underbody damage, and cowl rot is prevalent almost everywhere there is rain.

Well, since you have seen the car, I believe you! I was trying to be more supportive than some of the other posts. The surface rust doesn't really scare me (maybe it should, I have only done one car)

And, if one is restoring the car, why not do the cowl at the same time to save headaches down the road? The pics indicate the need for lower qtr patches, and an engine/transmission, and some other miscellaneous parts. It will not be cheap on parts. Granted, that is true for most restorations.

Thanks for the extra information. Maybe the original poster will contact you for a pre-bid inspection.

And, again, no offense intended, but personally, I think there are too many shelby clones out there, and not enough original-equipment cars. If one has the build sheet and the bucktag, that makes it easier to restore "as was".
 

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Please don't mis-understand. I did not take offense to your comments. I just wanted to clarify the car. I do not get offended easily, especially in my line of work. It is too late for the car anyway, since someone used the "Buy it Now" feature and the car is SOLD. Thanks, Ehay!
 
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